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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, after watching most of the Junkman's videos, and a bunch of others, I feel confident enough to get a PC and get to work on the swirl marks in the paint on my Exige. Gotta love black, haven't ya. :cool:

However, all the videos I've seen always use a nice flat panel to demonstrate, together with warnings about always keeping all of the pad on the paint while it's rotating.

Does anyone have any additional hints and tips on dealing with these cars which only seem to have outrageous curves and crazy angles to deal with.

Or am I going to be spending as much time cleaning up splatter as I am polishing. :facepalm

Cheers.
 

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There will often be areas that the machine cannot get to. So, revert to hand polishing.

I assume you bought a nice, slow random orbital machine.

Yes, black is difficult. It looks nice, tho.

(I will never again own a black car.)

For swirls and such, I use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze (with a machine). Always start with the least aggressive mode.

Then, I apply One Grand Blitz Wax with my hand. The heat from one's hand makes the wax adhere best.

I always recommend this guy:

Car Care Specialties - Quality Car Care Products

Larry deals with owners of more expensive cars. He has always been right on every suggestion. Tests the products too.

E.g. He'll recommend a wax, but only after he learns if the car is garaged, daily-driven, etc.
 

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I use Chemical Guys Hexlogic pads on my Porter Cable D/A and it seems to work fine - minimal splatter. With a D/A, lighter pads, and diminishing compounds it's nearly impossible to burn or cut too much clear even when you're just getting started. The challenge with a polisher is funny raised areas / ridges, which the Elise doesn't really have any of. Sharp angles like the rear clam edge and the front clam back from the headlights aren't too bad as you just do one side of the angle followed by the other.

For me the two biggest pains are all of the crazy plastic vents/grates/louvers and LSS wheels.
 

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I forgot to mention a tip from a fellow LTer.

He does the black plastic pieces (NOT with Armorall) first, so the wax doesn't stick to them.

Thanks for reminding me.
 

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I like the smaller 4" pads for the Elise/Exige. They fit into the curves and around the trim better.
 

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I have the Porter Cable R.O. polisher and I followed Junkman's instruction videos to the T. No problems. Just keep the pad in contact with the body at all times while it is turning and learn how to use the edges of the pad in tight spots. Don't be afraid to get into the door jams too. Those areas take a lot of scuffs and it looks fantastic when every inch is buffed.

You'll love the results.
 

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There will be almost no splatter UNLESS:

You pick up the polisher while it is still spinning.

Then, you will be cleaning little white dots from the strangest places.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There will be almost no splatter UNLESS:

You pick up the polisher while it is still spinning.

Then, you will be cleaning little white dots from the strangest places.
My concern was moving around some of the curves/edges, as for some there will only be half the pad in contact with the car. Won't that also cause the product to be flung off.

Anyway, thanks for the information guys and I'll let you know how I get on once the project gets under way. Maybe with pictures, if I can get ones that really show the before/after difference.

Cheers.
 

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Most of the "flinging" occurs on start-up when the pad is loaded with loose material. Just try to start it up on a relatively flat area then move in to the tight spots. You can even lift the head off once you have used a portion of the material on the pad and only a very small amount will likely get tossed around. There will always be a little thrown compound, but it just wipes right up anyway.
 

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Let me bump this thread with some videos. They will answer any questions about buffing on the side of your car.




 
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