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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just got the wheels back from the shop, tires mounted and balanced, etc. etc. they look fantastic. Problema:

The bore juuuuust doesn't fit onto the hub ring anymore, undoubtedly because of the new finish on the bore. I also had a b*tch of a time getting the centercaps back on for this reason, but worked them for a little and got them on ok. What should i do about the bore issue? lightly sand them until they fit???? Take them somewhere? etc. etc.
 

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I would prob lightly sand and work them on... Where you at and how much did they charge?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
PA: 60 bucks a wheel.
 

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I would sand them, yeah. I also sanded the mating flange on the back. I wanted to do the bolt holes but thought I might mess up the visible finish. I have checked the wheel torque a few time since and they haven't moved so I guess its no bigge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok, i didn't want to have to work them on too hard seeing as the car's up on stands right now. I guess i'll try sanding them a little. anyone else?
 

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Normally shops mask off these areas with caps or tape. A word of caution, I had someone PC where lugs go on a set of Porsche 911 wheels and the lugs wouldn't tighten correctly, then made the P/C come off in a sheet. Be careful with the sanding, you may want to score the area lightly and sand up to it. I'd call them and see what they recommend.
 

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Sand 'em.....they won't rust !! and the caps will cover it. PICTURES when you're finally done !
 

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Normally shops mask off these areas with caps or tape. A word of caution, I had someone PC where lugs go on a set of Porsche 911 wheels and the lugs wouldn't tighten correctly, then made the P/C come off in a sheet. Be careful with the sanding, you may want to score the area lightly and sand up to it. I'd call them and see what they recommend.
+1
 

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Normally shops mask off these areas with caps or tape. A word of caution, I had someone PC where lugs go on a set of Porsche 911 wheels and the lugs wouldn't tighten correctly, then made the P/C come off in a sheet. Be careful with the sanding, you may want to score the area lightly and sand up to it. I'd call them and see what they recommend.
+2

They should have masked off all the mating surfaces as well as the center hole. If you leave the powder coating on the mounting face or in the center bore, the wheels will not fit flat against the hub and you will have all sorts of trouble with the wheels having runout and wobbling. Find out what they recommend for removing the powder coating and be careful if you sand the faces and bores so you don't remove any metal. I had this same problem with a set of refinished BMW wheels and had to carefully use a chemical paint stripper to remove the powder coating. It took forever to do because I had to be so careful not to get any stripper on the rest of the wheel, but it finally cured the shimmy and vibrations caused by having powder coating on the mounting faces.
 

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Like this?

 

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A brake cylinder hone or similar tool will remove only the amount necessary to mount the wheels and keep everything round.

Just an idea - good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ok cool thanks.....in the meantime i may get a set of monolites.....:evil:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i looked at the wheels again when i got home today......I'm so frustrated because of how well they turned out, they really look nice. anyways, it looks like i'm around 1/8" +/- of excess around the bore. Honestly the mating flanges look pretty good, if not perfect. I'm hesitant to mess with those, although i know i have to confront the bore issue. I looked around for a brake cyl. hone but struck out this evening. Anyone know where i can pick one up? Do you think i should even touch the flanges unless i absolutely have to?
 

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I looked around for a brake cyl. hone but struck out this evening. Anyone know where i can pick one up? Do you think i should even touch the flanges unless i absolutely have to?
A NAPA store or other professional auto parts store.

Be careful to keep things straight

Some type of reamer would be safer in terms of perfect alignment. But, I'm affraid it would ruin the powder coat by chipping out along the outside face of the wheel.

Anybody else have any ideas on this ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
hornet, thanks for your help with this. i didn't realize you're so close....i'm in allentown. do you know of any shop around us that could help me out? I certainly don't mind paying for it to get done right.....silly me for thinking it could have been done that way the first time LOL. i always expect the "professionals" that I'm paying to bring things like this to my attention, or even just say "you may want to think about.....". I feel like i'm taking crazy pills! live and learn i guess :)
 

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try brass wire brush on a drill?
 

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If you are a patient and careful guy, you can remove the powder coating from the bores with some carefully applied gel paint stripper (you can try BIX gel stripper from your local home improvement center). You only need to remove enough coating (usually about 3/4" up the bore from the face) to clear the part of the drive flange that protrudes from the hub on the car. Lay the wheel on its face and stuff a shop towel in the bore past the amount of coating you need to remove. Very carefully paint the gel stripper using an old toothbrush onto the exposed powder coating in the bore. Keep an eye on things to make sure you don't drip any stripper onto the rest of the wheel and when the powder coating softens, scrape it out of the bore with a putty knife. It may help to mask and tape off the inside of the wheel around the hub area to protect the good powder coating from spilled paint stripper. This may take several applications and works best when you can work in a warm area and keep the stripper wet and in constant contact with the powder coating you want to remove. If you work carefully and patiently you can do this without damaging anything. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
cool! should i do the same for the mating flange or leave it be for now?
 

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cool! should i do the same for the mating flange or leave it be for now?
Yes, if there is any coating on the mating flange, remove it. Our cars are very sensitive to wobble and imbalance in the wheels and the mounting face to hub interface should only be bare metal on bare metal (a little anti-seize in there to stop corrosion won't hurt though).
 
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