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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I figure with 5'x8' of material I can do the top, both front A pillars, both side mirrors, and the black bits around the back window.

I am going to use the carbon fiber 3M-1080 Scotchprint and to it myself once the materials arrive.

I made this little measurement pic if anyone wants to use it.



The numbers are in inches.

Hope this helps if you decide to do it yourself.

--J
 

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Look forward to seeing the finished result.

I was thinking about covering some of the interior plastic parts with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So after reading how to gloss up 3M vinyl carbon fiber using Valspar Gloss Enamel spray I wanted to recreate carbonfiberfilm's experiment.

They did it on the DiNoc film and because there is a texture difference between that and the 1080 Scotchprint I ordered I wanted to see what it was like.

The results are simple.

No coating looks amazing and little gloss.
1 coat gives it a VERY even glossy visual that looks amazing imho.
2 coats changes the texture of the lighter bits of the carbon fiber
3 coats looks clumpy and changes the texture completely. I highly advise against this if you decide to do so.

Here are the pictures:

The start - 3 taped off areas:



2 coats (notice the blotching starting to show) and 1 coat (the best looking I think):



2 coatings, 1 coat, no coating:



These last two show all 4 variations. Notice again that the area coated 3 times has a very odd texture to it but has a REALLY high shine. Too much for me:





Let me know what you all think. I also took a video but it didn't turn out very well so I didn't bother uploading it. If anyone wants to see it let me know and I'll do so but it isn't great.

--J
 

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Discussion Starter #8
On a side note - the samples I received were directly from 3M - they will send you a complete set of vinyl options including all the brushed metals which look amazing. I am thinking some interior black brushed metal treatment :)

After 12 hours of drying the carbon fiber looks a little less blotchy but 2 and 3 coats still do not look nearly as smooth as the single coat. It is still notably pliable. I will be testing a heat gun on it to see if I can coat the vinyl before I install it onto the top or if I should mask off the car and gloss it up after I wrap it.

--
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well just awesome. 60% into the application the vinyl tore a good quater sized hole in it. I wasn't even pulling at any crazy angle - it just tore. Very upset at my self right now.

Learned that I will need more people to do the top properly - and more material unfortunately as I just lost a 5'x4' section and do not have enough to cover that area now.

Time to start from scratch again.

Things I learned - if some of the backing sticks to the vinyl you can use a bit of water and gently moisten the white parts that are stuck back there and use a fingernail to remove them and leave the adhesive to do it's job.

I think I will try the A pillars and the back plastic bits around the glass to ease the frustration of losing such a huge piece.

More later.
 

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Plack,

That sucks.. Been through this exact same scenario.. After a bunch of tips from the professional installer I spoke with, I was able to do it right on my second try.

Good luck. Let me know if you need any help.
 

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Are you using a water mixture with 2 drops of Baby Shampoo to apply the vinyl?

Don't know if this carbon fibre stuff follows the same rules as regular vinyls, but spray the car first, then the vinyl, then apply. I hope you are not sticking it/unsticking it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I was not using a wet surface. It was dry but not sticking much at all.

I have completed the black plastic section behind the top now with no issues. I will post pictures later.

Notorious I did not know the 1080 Scotchprint would work on a damp/wet surface.
 

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When someone first told me to spray soapy water on the back of my vinyls, for striping my Elise, I thought "that's crazy, how will it ever stick?", but that's how its done. The stickum sets up after you squeegee it.

I am talking about garden variety vinyls for stripes and what-not. If I ever do my top in black, that's how I would plan on doing it.

YMMV, please test in an inconspicuous spot before following my advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ahh - the 3m 1080 stuff is amazing and doesn't really stick down until you press on it - it also has these channels of adhesive you can feel that let the air bubbles out easily while you squeegee it down.

I have complete the other parts of the car I am going to do on the exterior for now - I am not sure about the mirrors as I am still liking them red.

Google Album - I'm running out of Flickr room lol
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks bware and efria - it looks even better in the sunlight and in person. I am actually so happy with it I might not even put one coat of gloss on it. I'll find out once I get the top done.

Notorious I will be once I get more vinyl. I had 5' x 8' only and screwing up 5'x4' of that after already cutting out parts for the plastic parts meant I could not do the top with the material I have on hand. I am ordering more and will be doing the top once it arrives. I might be buying 2x the required amount JUST IN CASE lol
 

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Great job so far. I've got the 3M DI Nock stuff on my top and people think its CF all the time. If done right, it looks amazing. Really would like to see a bigger picture of the whole car once you finish.
 

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Plack,

just remember--warm weather is your friend :)

The roof is highly convex and you will have a b*tch of a time if you don't have enough hands to pull the vinyl taut in all directions.

The only way to do it right, especially with CF textured vinyl, is with at least 3 people. You'll need two people handling the entire piece and one with a heat gun or hand torch. If the weather is warm enough (like 90 degrees out), then you won't need the 3rd person for a heat source.

The challenge with CF vinyl is that if you are caught in a situation where you need to stretch an area out to remove creases, you begin to mess up the texture. With plain vinyl you might get away with noodling it until it looks right, but CF is a different ballgame. For best results, it has to be done right the first time. Very little room for error, unfortunately.

Also, be sure to use adhesive booster glue on all edges to prevent lift, which the vinyl will be inclined to do when wrapped around highly convex forms such as the roof and mirrors.
 
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