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Discussion Starter #1
So I am attempting to replace my clutch and flywheel myself, and have got the one off and new one on(but I can't be sure of the clutch disc alignment), and I'm getting very frustrated with it. I'm just wondering what my options are at this point for getting my car done and back on the road. I was considering having it flatbedded to a shop, but the engine is on a hoist, the transmission is loose in the bay, and the suspension is all apart so I don't think that will work.

So, is there an option I'm overlooking, or does anyone have any tips for getting the transmission back on the engine?
 

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Recognize that often, the darkest part is right before the dawn. Many times it is just a little more effort and it will not seem so frustrating. Stay hydrated and rested. Take a break and look at it again later.

Hire a mechanic to come help.

Invite friends that know what they are doing.

Make it a forum project and give us pics so others can give advise. You can even use videos on youtube.

Flatbed all of it.
 

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There is a clutch alignment tool that you may need that simplifies the entire process. I'd send you mine but tesprit beat me out on the ebay auction and he owns it :(.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There is a clutch alignment tool that you may need that simplifies the entire process. I'd send you mine but tesprit beat me out on the ebay auction and he owns it :(.
Where were you able to get the tool? I've shopped around a bit and not found one for sale yet.
 

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When I replaced the clutch on my s2000, the replacement clutch came with an alignment tool. Did you check to make sure you got all the parts out of the box?
 

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I think I have an extra tool.
 

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usually you take the disk to advance auto, etc. and see if they have a tool.
disk alignment can be a PIA.
you may need to turn down the pilot diameter....
else go to a machine shop and have a tool made.
take the old disk, also measure the nose (pilot) diameter of the tranny input shaft.
good luck.
sam
 

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Things like this make it that much more satisfying when you are done! :D

Where are you located? Maybe based on that, someone here can give you a hand.

When replacing the clutch on a TR7 once, I didn't have a tool, so I took the input shaft out of a bum transmission I had. I have also heard of people making a tool out of wood (I think they used a broom stick handle).
 

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Lots of good advice here.

I had a Bugeye and could use the tiny trans itself as an alignment tool, by, IIRC, making the pressure plate just tight enough to move if enough force was applied.

Have also used rulers to align, but can't remember if that ever worked.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've got the transmission lined up with the clutch disc, but I tightened the pressure plate down already and the disc is just slightly high, so the bellhousing bolts don't align. I'm going to try and track down an alignment tool and have another shot next weekend.

I am in Camarillo, CA if anyone wants to come help out next weekend. Maybe someone local has the tool I can buy or borrow?
 

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Things to note when doing a clutch install.

Note 1. Make sure when you take things apart that you get your flywheel resurfaced. If not you may have issues of your new clutch slipping. Now would be a great time to get a light weight flywheel instead. I highly endorse an ACT flywheel. One good thing about having a yota engine and trans.

Note 2. Make sure to have the alignment tool. If not your going to have to line up the clutch with the transmission. I've done that before and ouch that hurts.

Note 3. Make a point to number the flywheel bolts as you torque them down. Remember to torque down your flywheel bolts progressively. Going in 10ftlbs increments in a star pattern will allow for a good even fly wheel.

Note 4: Use lock-tite on your flywheel bolts. This step is often over looked and you end up shooting a flywheel bolt off and killing your trans. Now also would be a good time just because your there to get new flywheel bolts. Again another good part about having yota running gear.

Note 5: Buy yourself a transmission jack. It makes life so much easier and the trans is more stable. Yes you can do this with just a floor jack but it's a PITA.

Note 6: Get a good clutch. Don't be cheap about this item but don't lose your mind and get something stupid like a twin plate clutch etc..... For the most part a good stage 1 or 2 clutch from any company will do you. OEM clutches are good but tend to overheat when you hold a gear close to redline for long periods of time.

Note 7: When refilling your trans be sure to use good fluids. Motul trans fluid works very well and is good preventative maintenance.

Note 8: When bleeding your clutch use a mityvac or you will hate life and curse why the clutch is so sloppy still after pumping the pedel over and over with no results.

Note 9: Last one I promise use a good clutch fluid/brake fluid. For good results at a cheap price I would endorse Synthetic brake fluids from Valvoline or Castrol. But if you can afford it use ATE Super Blue Brake fluid. It has a much higher wet and dry boiling point and is idiot proof. You'll be able to see and know when you bleed the system in full.

I hope these notes will help out anyone that is planning or thinking about doing a clutch install. But at the end of the day find a good shop to do this. I hate doing clutch installs so much that I would rather do an engine swap on a MR2 turbo, MR2 first gen, or nearly any other mid engine car first before doing a clutch swap on any MR car.
 

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Oh helpful tip on getting the trans to mate with the engine. Make sure your clutch is lined up with an allignment tool first if not obvious already. But using a trans jack and floor jack align the engine with trans about 3 inches apart. Get 2 long metric bolts that are the same thread pitch as the engine "I forgot what they are in size think it's an m12". Tighten the bolts slowly on the bottom two points and the engine and trans should mate up progressively. When you get close enough install the other bolts and switch out your "starter" bolts with the proper bits.
 

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Well you do know you can buy an alignment tool at any parts store for 3 dollars also right. Unless your using some weird twin plate clutch deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I called Toyota and several local parts places, nobody has the tool for either a Celica or the Elise. I found one online that I've ordered though.
 

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I called Toyota and several local parts places, nobody has the tool for either a Celica or the Elise. I found one online that I've ordered though.
If that tool doesn't work, I have the correct alignment tool (as RoadDad stated above) and I may be able to make you a copy of it. The tool isn't complicated and it shouldn't take me more than an hour to make one on my lathe. I would just need a couple of crucial measuremants of your clutch parts from you just to make sure this tool is correct for you (I haven't used the tool on my car yet).
 

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It helps to have friends that work in a few parts departments. For engine parts give Lithia Toyota a call in Oregon and ask for Arron he knows his parts. Your run of the mill parts guy wont be much help. Toyota has several warehouses stateside. Portland,LA, Chicago and a few more on the east coast. "How do you know you have ordered one too many parts"
 
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