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Discussion Starter · #301 ·
Are you sure the throttle cable is not sticking?

To open up the IAC just use a hacksaw and turn the security screws into flat head screws. I clean mine with solvent, and then oil it, chuck it in a drill using a short rubber tube and give it quick spin. That usually laps it nicely.
I'd say that I'm 99% sure that it's not the throttle cable. Visual inspection: watching the throttle body blade, the cable, as my brother sits and actuates the pedal --- everything is snappy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #303 ·
me73, thanks man. I've already got a set of security bits on order. Should be here by this weekend. But then of course the holidays are here and it seems i've got something going on every weekend. argh. i got cars and motorcycles to wrench on!
 

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Discussion Starter · #304 ·
Bit of an update. I pulled the IAC valve again and disassembled, cleaned, and lubed it up. It spins just fine. Haven't actually torn a lot of these apart... I give the thing a spin and spin it does, but it doesn't keep spinning with momentum. Are they supposed to keep spinning for a while after you give it a whirl?

Either way, that didn't solve it. I eventually just tried disconnecting the IACV, disabling it in KManager, and then doing both. Those efforts didn't solve it either. Only thing I haven't tried is blocking off the IACV port. But at this point I'm guessing that won't fix it either. Curiously, without the IACV connected or otherwise disabled, startup and idle don't seem to be that much different.

I got paranoid about the throttle cable again so I just disconnected it at the throttle body and actuated the butterfly valve to see what the engine did --- the rev hang issue still presented itself. I can see the valve actuating, it's nice and snappy. So at this point...

It's very likely NOT the IACV. It's NOT the throttle body. It's NOT the throttle cable.

It MIGHT be the tune. But that's doubtful.

It MIGHT be something to do with the blower setup. Whether it be the volume of the boost tubing or the way the intake manifold is configured....

Dunno. If anyone has any bright ideas I'm all ears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #305 ·
Just wanted to say something about the Innovative Mounts k-swap kit. Specifically, the gas pedal.

It's a fine unit. But it really needs to be spaced over to the right-hand side about an inch. At the moment, it's REALLY close to the brake pedal. As it is, I'm probably gonna pull it off and send it to a welder to modify the pedal a bit.

You can see how it is spaced halfway down in post #14 of this thread: http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/2728450-post14.html
 

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Hey Butters,

Sitting here rereading your thoughts and issues...I wonder if you still have an air leak...specifically intake. I had a S/C kit on my last lotus that did something VERY similar to what you are talking about. And it was irregular sometimes and others it wouldn't go away. I never really tracked it down, but honestly it could be an intake leak in the pipe work/joints or most commonly at the fuel rail/injector seals. That was the first one that I found that was the worst. The other was the intake manifold. So have you tried a "pressure" test system?

I made my own using a PVC cap that I drilled a hole into and installed a schrader valve on (same air valve you will find on your wheels). Then I hooked up my Air compressor and started raising the air pressure in the system to the same pressure amount as the blower would put through the system. After that I just listenned for the air leaks. If you don't make one in the next week or so, I am going to be in the area on the 22nd, I can drop mine off to you...if it is the right one. I made two of them, and you can give it a shot. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #307 ·
Yeah, I've had that suspicion, too. That it might be a slight vacuum leak somewhere. Yeah if you have time to swing by that would be amazing! Hit me up when you'll be in town next! It'd be good to see you and catch up, man. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #308 ·
Hope everyone is having a good end of their year. A bit of an update.

(And yes, I realize that I *still* haven't put up a video of this thing running through the gears yet for everyone to see. I apologize about that. I promise I'll get to it sometime this month as I have some vacation coming up.)

So I was finally able to diagnose what is causing one of my problems. Namely, the fact that after a WOT run, the engine will idle at about 1500rpm to 2000rpm. Initially I thought this was the IACV but it turns out that isn't it. Turns out it IS the throttle body blade --- it isn't closing all the way. To be clear, it usually DOES close all the way. In the past, with the car off, I've actuated the blade at the TB all the way open with my hand and observed it slamming shut all the way to the stop screw. However, after a WOT spurt, the engine tends to hang out at 2000rpm. So when it happened today, I pulled over, got out of the car and manually closed the throttle at the TB and the revs went back to the targeted 900rpm as set in KManager. I'm not sure why this is only happening after WOT actuation... The throttle cable is adjusted correctly so it's not that. Maybe after the TB is nice and hot from running at temp for a while things expand and it gets sticky? There's enough slack in the throttle cable... I've lubed up the blade and inside of the TB with dry moly, so I'm not quite sure what else I can do...

This, of course, is separate from my rev hang issue. That may still be an air leak.

At any rate, next course of action (aside from a smoke test in the near future) is to disable the IACV, remove it entirely and block off the port. Back the TB stop screw out so that I can just set the idle manually by having the TB blade slightly open at the fully closed position. Recalibrate TPS. I'm pretty sure I don't need to run an IACV in this configuration anyway...
 

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Interesting if painful thread but looks like you almost have it sorted and should be a beast.

Re throttle body, this thread is worth a look as the return springs on these type of throttle bodies can exert side pressure on the self centring throttle blade shaft and cause the blade to bind against the body. Offers a simple solution, if this is the problem.

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f25/throttle-body-design-flaw-leads-sticky-throttle-high-idle-98214/

Googled a Skunk TB which seems to have a beefy spring that looks to me like it could also exert lateral pressure on the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #310 ·
Interesting if painful thread but looks like you almost have it sorted and should be a beast.

Re throttle body, this thread is worth a look as the return springs on these type of throttle bodies can exert side pressure on the self centring throttle blade shaft and cause the blade to bind against the body. Offers a simple solution, if this is the problem.

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f25/throttle-body-design-flaw-leads-sticky-throttle-high-idle-98214/

Googled a Skunk TB which seems to have a beefy spring that looks to me like it could also exert lateral pressure on the shaft.
Hmm... I remember coming across that thread a while ago but seem to remember that it mostly applied to TB that have seen a pretty long service life (30k - 40k miles). My Sunk2 TB has only about 2K on it at this point.

Either way, it's definitely something to check out. Thanks for the tip!
 

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Discussion Starter · #311 ·
Welp, guess who's an idiot. Me. That's who.

Turns out the idle hang at 2000rpm was indeed the throttle body. From factory, the Skunk2 TB is setup so that the stop screw for the butterfly is set in a way that the butterfly is closed in the bore when the cable cam assembly rests on the screw. But the tolerances just aren't there with this piece, so the plate is actually JUST EVER SO SLIGHTLY open when stopped against the screw. Found this out when I was able to replicate the 2000rpm hang, hopped out while the car was idling high, popped the hatch and forced the plate closed --- idle dropped back to target RPM. Ended up just back the stop screw all the way back out. So now the plate closes completely shut every time.

Rev hang still remains. Increasingly likely that it's some sort of vacuum leak.
 

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Welp, guess who's an idiot. Me. That's who.

Turns out the idle hang at 2000rpm was indeed the throttle body. From factory, the Skunk2 TB is setup so that the stop screw for the butterfly is set in a way that the butterfly is closed in the bore when the cable cam assembly rests on the screw. But the tolerances just aren't there with this piece, so the plate is actually JUST EVER SO SLIGHTLY open when stopped against the screw. Found this out when I was able to replicate the 2000rpm hang, hopped out while the car was idling high, popped the hatch and forced the plate closed --- idle dropped back to target RPM. Ended up just back the stop screw all the way back out. So now the plate closes completely shut every time.

Rev hang still remains. Increasingly likely that it's some sort of vacuum leak.
Butters,

At least you have one issue down!!! Nice work. Sorry I wasn't able to make it over during x-mas break...it was more of a smash and visit deal...we came and went fast. Message me your address and I will mail the end cap I made to you. :(

Sorry about that...coaching wrestling this winter and it is taking up ALL my spare time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #313 · (Edited)
Hello, everyone. As some of you may know, I took this past year to disassemble the car and fix some of the mistakes that were made the first go-round in this engine swap. The main thing being the rather inefficient charge-cooling system. I also simplified the engine bay a bunch. At the same time I also upgraded the engine cooling a bit with BOE's pressurized swirl header tank, which is a pretty sweet piece of kit.

However.

You knew a "however" was coming, didn't you?

Today I go to finish up the car. Literally, I only had one wiring harness to sort, then I could fill the car with fluids and fire her up to do some tests before buttoning her up. I was excited as it has been about a year since the car went under the knife. So I get all my fluids --- transmission oil, engine oil, distilled water and water wetter.

I get my handy-dandy funnel. Transmission oil filled? Check. Engine oil filled? Check. Coolant? Well, I gotta evacuate the remaining old coolant. Grab the vacuum pump. Screw cap onto BOE'S header tank. Run shop air through it and... Nothing. No vacuum builds. WTF? Ok. Maybe I forgot to button something up, maybe a hose clamp didn't get cinched down tight enough. So I blow air into the system and check for leaks. I definitely feel a breeze coming from somewhere. Where is it coming from? I start to chase it down. Checking all the fittings. And then it hits me.

The lower fitting on the damned swirl header tank isn't fully welded.

Let me say that again:

THE $500 PRESSURIZED HEADER TANK FROM BOE WASNT FULLY WELDED.

See the attached photo for the one thing that is keeping me from firing up my car. Clearly, these weren't pressure tested. Hopefully it just slipped by their QC person?

So, I have two choices now, @turbophil. I can either request that you guys send me a new one (though you haven't responded to my last email regarding another matter) and wait a week or so. Or I can spend extra money to have someone local weld it up for me. On principal, it's ridiculous that I would have to spend even more money on something I paid a lot for already just to have it have perform its most basic function of containing a fluid. But on the other hand, my wedding is coming up on the 18th (that's only 21 days away) and I plan to show up and leave the festivities in the Exige. So, since time is of the essence, local welding seems like a good idea if only it didn't irk me so damn much. Sooner the better especially since I want a shakedown first; if it's gonna catch fire, I'd rather it happen before the reception not during.

Expect a call from me Monday morning, @turbophil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #314 ·
Quick update. Emailed BOE this morning about this and they offered to pay for shipping the tank back to them and turn it around in 48 hours. But since I need this sooner than later they offered up a partial refund to help cover the cost of welding it locally.

Will get that taken care of today and move forward to completing this stage of the project.
 

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Quick update. Emailed BOE this morning about this and they offered to pay for shipping the tank back to them and turn it around in 48 hours. But since I need this sooner than later they offered up a partial refund to help cover the cost of welding it locally.

Will get that taken care of today and move forward to completing this stage of the project.

Sounds like a win for BOE and for you. I've been critical of their response in the past, but I've also found that when you do get them to engage, they are good people and will handle things.

EDIT: just took a look at the photo. Lol someone took lunch halfway through that weld and forgot it wasn't finished when they came back
 

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Mr. Butters - I hope the project continues to move forward given the snag(s) you have gone through. I know many people on the forum look forward to every single update you have. Oh and congrats!
 

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Discussion Starter · #317 ·
Quick update. Was able to fill the coolant today and fire her up. She fired right up way easier than before, plus my rev hang/surging issue has now been fixed. I believe it was because of the wonky design of the a/a intercooler system. Before, the manifold was split using a plate, essentially using half of the manifold to send air out to the intercooler, and the other half to route the cooled charge into the block. I think this was allowing for some funny air intake business.

For some reason the fuel pressure regulator is showing some really odd readings. When the car is running, the needle has shot way past 100 and is pinned against the back-side of the needle stop. When the car is off, it rests at about 80psi. I wonder if something got all messed up because.... and this is embarrassing... I had cranked it a few times with the supply line from the fuel surge tank hooked up to the FPR return port. D'oh.

At any rate, I think I'll need a retune. It's running kinda rich right now. Shot a sizable fireball out the exhaust after reving it to about 3000rpm today.

Gonna go back into the shop and button the car up --- hatch, shear panel, then it's back on the road! After I get new tabs, that is. I'll be sure to get a start-up vid as well as a pull or two for all to finally see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #318 · (Edited)
So I've been thinking about the car and why it doesn't jump to life when starting. It felt down on power and the sound of the exhaust was kinda rumbly. I hypothesized that maybe it was down a cylinder. And sure enough, after some diagnostics today, I narrowed it down to a fuel injector not squirting.

I have 775cc injectors from Fuel Injector Clinic. They come as a flow-matched set for $375. I don't think I can purchase just one. And even if I could, does anyone know if that's a good idea? I know it's important to have the set flow-matched... but HOW important?

It seems weird that just one went bad. I'm hoping that it just needs a good cleaning after having sat for 10 months. Doesn't seem like an injector can just give up the ghost sitting around like that. Gonna hit up an injector repair shop tomorrow and see about giving some TLC to this lone injector.

 

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So I've been thinking about the car and why it doesn't jump to life when starting. It felt down on power and the sound of the exhaust was kinda rumbly. I hypothesized that maybe it was down a cylinder. And sure enough, after some diagnostics today, I narrowed it down to a fuel injector not squirting.

I have 775cc injectors from Fuel Injector Clinic. They come as a flow-matched set for $375. I don't think I can purchase just one. And even if I could, does anyone know if that's a good idea? I know it's important to have the set flow-matched... but HOW important?

It seems weird that just one went bad. I'm hoping that it just needs a good cleaning after having sat for 10 months. Doesn't seem like an injector can just give up the ghost sitting around like that. Gonna hit up an injector repair shop tomorrow and see about giving some TLC to this lone injector.

https://youtu.be/Gkp9NWsa6Rk
Going to be hard for anyone to tell you how important it is.
Yes there can be variability, yes it can be somewhat large, do I personally think it's mostly overblown, yes, but compared to everything else invested, injectors are cheap.

I need to read through this thread in full as I plan to build something similar. Very cool car, and the body work looks clean
 

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Discussion Starter · #320 ·
Going to be hard for anyone to tell you how important it is.
Yes there can be variability, yes it can be somewhat large, do I personally think it's mostly overblown, yes, but compared to everything else invested, injectors are cheap.

I need to read through this thread in full as I plan to build something similar. Very cool car, and the body work looks clean
Compared to everything else, yes, injectors are cheap. But I've been spending money like I hate having it because of this stupid wedding that's coming up next weekend. So another $375+ makes my stress meter twitch.

I'm gonna drop the injectors off at a local injector service shop and see if they can give them a good cleaning tonight. Keep your fingers crossed for me, guys.
 
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