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Compared to everything else, yes, injectors are cheap. But I've been spending money like I hate having it because of this stupid wedding that's coming up next weekend. So another $375+ makes my stress meter twitch.

I'm gonna drop the injectors off at a local injector service shop and see if they can give them a good cleaning tonight. Keep your fingers crossed for me, guys.
Ohh trust me, I know the feeling: https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f259/starting-rebuild-process-06-elise-417993/
You just get done with spending money because the question keeps going through your head "is this goign to be the last hundred/thousand I have to spend before this is done, or are there 20 more things just like this waiting for me?"
I haven't even updated my thread because I'm going to end up suing the guy who worked on it last.



Clean the injectors, replace them if cleaning doesn't work. You're close, keep the faith. This thing will be sick when it's done... prob just settiment that settled while the car had a long downtime that collected in the injectors, or something else similarly stupid. You're 99.9% there, and if not.. just say to yourself "it'll be an even better story"
One thing I've learned is that the crazier the build story the more people will connect with and remember you and the car, and you'll feel even closer to the end product.
 

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Discussion Starter · #322 · (Edited)
Ohh trust me, I know the feeling: https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f259/starting-rebuild-process-06-elise-417993/
You just get done with spending money because the question keeps going through your head "is this goign to be the last hundred/thousand I have to spend before this is done, or are there 20 more things just like this waiting for me?"
I haven't even updated my thread because I'm going to end up suing the guy who worked on it last.



Clean the injectors, replace them if cleaning doesn't work. You're close, keep the faith. This thing will be sick when it's done... prob just settiment that settled while the car had a long downtime that collected in the injectors, or something else similarly stupid. You're 99.9% there, and if not.. just say to yourself "it'll be an even better story"
One thing I've learned is that the crazier the build story the more people will connect with and remember you and the car, and you'll feel even closer to the end product.
Your project is crazy in a different way, man. Looks like our cars are cut from the same fiberglass cloth.

Update on the car. Got the injectors back today from Doctor Injector. They discovered that the contacts on the faulty injector had a bunch of corrosion on it. I didn't see much, but I guess it was enough to inhibit signal. So they cleaned the contacts and all the injectors and got them to flow even better now.

I went to the shop and embarked on the 5min job of reinstalling the injector only to have it turn into a 30min job because I dropped a fuel rail spacer into the bay. This necessitated lots of swearing as I had to remove the undertray while being anxious to test fire the engine. Anyway, retrieved the spacer and buttoned it all up and...

Ladies and gentlemen, I'm happy to report the car runs flawlessly now!

Fires up strong. Idles perfectly. No rev-hang or throttle issues. And the acceleration is BEASTLY. I'm so happy, guys. This project has been so protracted I'm having a hard time remembering all the crap I went through with it unless I read back through this thread. Thank you everyone for sticking it out with me and all the advice and encouragement. It really did help to have this community behind me.

I'll be sure to clean her up and grab my nice camera to shoot some nice photos for everyone. I'm gonna get my fiance, soon to be wife, to shoot some footage for me as well. A nice pull inside the car and a drive-by shot are in order.

Again, thank you all for being here. I will also post up a spreadsheet soon with the cost break-down. It won't be comprehensive as I stopped keeping track of all the little s**t that came up but it'll give a really good idea of what's involved.

CHEERS!
 

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Discussion Starter · #323 · (Edited)
Here are some random snaps of the engine bay in its final config. Well, actually not its final config because you'll see that the fuel surge tank's supply line is plumbed to the FPR's return port. I've since corrected this error.

In the future, I'd like to do something about the valve cover vent line. It's a leftover decision from the shop who started this project for me. That is a gigantic -12 AN line that runs to the BOE catch can on the passenger side (the crankcase vent line also goes into the can). It looks kinda hacked together the way it crosses over the engine like that. There's also a ground that wraps around from the front of the valve cover to the back. Not really digging that so it'll get redone at some point. Super simple, yes, but I don't want to deal with it right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #324 ·
Some more. You can see the Laminova in the first attached photo.

I realize that the two sharp 90degree bends for the coolant hoses aren't the ideal runs, but the routing from the head to the tank is so tight and odd that this was the only way I could figure out how to do it. If you have a better way, I'm all ears.
 

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Just a quick heads up/warning on the location of the catch can: I had mine located where you do for a while and at an event, I had the catch can fill and oil came out of the breather and on to the supercharger/serpentine belt. It was a really odd thing to have boost loss for an unknown reason. I moved the can and breather so there would be no possibility for future issues. The 2zz will dump a bunch of oil out of the cover in long right hand sweepers. Don't know about the K24.
 

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Much rather have to wipe out some oil vs it land on stuff that will catch fire or cause degradation of rubber materials. Later that season, the belt shredded it self. It was two years old. I gotta think the oil bath somehow shortened it's service life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #330 ·
Much rather have to wipe out some oil vs it land on stuff that will catch fire or cause degradation of rubber materials. Later that season, the belt shredded it self. It was two years old. I gotta think the oil bath somehow shortened it's service life.
Oh for sure. Short of returning to the sump, I think the trunk solution is pretty sweet.
 

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Your project is crazy in a different way, man. Looks like our cars are cut from the same fiberglass cloth.

Update on the car. Got the injectors back today from Doctor Injector. They discovered that the contacts on the faulty injector had a bunch of corrosion on it. I didn't see much, but I guess it was enough to inhibit signal. So they cleaned the contacts and all the injectors and got them to flow even better now.

I went to the shop and embarked on the 5min job of reinstalling the injector only to have it turn into a 30min job because I dropped a fuel rail spacer into the bay. This necessitated lots of swearing as I had to remove the undertray while being anxious to test fire the engine. Anyway, retrieved the spacer and buttoned it all up and...

Ladies and gentlemen, I'm happy to report the car runs flawlessly now!

Fires up strong. Idles perfectly. No rev-hang or throttle issues. And the acceleration is BEASTLY. I'm so happy, guys. This project has been so protracted I'm having a hard time remembering all the crap I went through with it unless I read back through this thread. Thank you everyone for sticking it out with me and all the advice and encouragement. It really did help to have this community behind me.

I'll be sure to clean her up and grab my nice camera to shoot some nice photos for everyone. I'm gonna get my fiance, soon to be wife, to shoot some footage for me as well. A nice pull inside the car and a drive-by shot are in order.

Again, thank you all for being here. I will also post up a spreadsheet soon with the cost break-down. It won't be comprehensive as I stopped keeping track of all the little s**t that came up but it'll give a really good idea of what's involved.

CHEERS!
How did I miss this update.
Soo good to hear. I knew it was something simple like this, and I know exactly how you feel rushing to put it all back together. I'm just starting to have gone through this emotional roller coaster enough times to be able to start calling these sorts of stupid things to keep myself from going crazy and hopefully was able to give some perspective / re-assurance.

In for videos! and please if I may use you as a sounding board with regards to the K24 swap, as I'm doing the exact same thing in about 2 years, but I think I'm going turbo which has it's own complexities.
 

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Discussion Starter · #332 · (Edited)
How did I miss this update.
Soo good to hear. I knew it was something simple like this, and I know exactly how you feel rushing to put it all back together. I'm just starting to have gone through this emotional roller coaster enough times to be able to start calling these sorts of stupid things to keep myself from going crazy and hopefully was able to give some perspective / re-assurance.

In for videos! and please if I may use you as a sounding board with regards to the K24 swap, as I'm doing the exact same thing in about 2 years, but I think I'm going turbo which has it's own complexities.
Would be happy to chat about the K swap. Just lemme know when. Thank you for all the advice and encouragement!

Went to the one year anniversary of the opening of the shop I am a member of and put the finishing touch on the Exige tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #333 ·
I've compiled a Google Spreadsheet of the costs of a basic K24 swap. I've tried to keep it basic.

Keep in mind everyone will want something different. But this is close to what I did but does not include all the small things like AN fittings, hoses, etc.

At the bottom of the spreadsheet, you can see some optional extras that I would recommend but are not strictly needed to get the car rolling and scaring you.

I'm still adding stuff to it but it's mostly there.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1owUiFNHN52eQY2CJHw8qrSQb8zIfshcoK1OTK5jJOlU/edit?usp=sharing
 

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Discussion Starter · #334 ·
Curious thing started happening tonight. I experienced a rev limit (fuel cut, it seems) when rpms reached 4000. I suspected this to be K-Pro's engine protection procedure. But it still persisted even after engine coolant temps were well into 195F and thus all warmed up to operating temperature.

I would get on the gas and as it revved up to about 3500rpm the engine started hesitating before hitting the 4000rpm rev limit. I don't see anything in K-pro to adjust at what temp and what rpms to limit cold protection revs. That doesn't mean there isn't a control for that, I could just be missing it. @dstevens and anyone else, any thoughts?

I started to suspect a faulty fuel pressure regulator but that doesn't seem to make much sense to me...
 

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I've compiled a Google Spreadsheet of the costs of a basic K24 swap. I've tried to keep it basic.

Keep in mind everyone will want something different. But this is close to what I did but does not include all the small things like AN fittings, hoses, etc.

At the bottom of the spreadsheet, you can see some optional extras that I would recommend but are not strictly needed to get the car rolling and scaring you.

I'm still adding stuff to it but it's mostly there.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1owUiFNHN52eQY2CJHw8qrSQb8zIfshcoK1OTK5jJOlU/edit?usp=sharing
Thanks for tracking this...always interesting to see what others paid for their swaps. For me, the real cost is in the little crap you always seem to need -- Fittings, hoses, bolts, etc.

And those interested in turbo builds... price is about the same between the two.

for the lowered rev-limit, in KPro, look under the Parameters window, "Protection" tab.
You can also check the "Rev-Limits" tab and make sure you don't have some weird launch control setting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #336 ·
Thanks for tracking this...always interesting to see what others paid for their swaps. For me, the real cost is in the little crap you always seem to need -- Fittings, hoses, bolts, etc.

And those interested in turbo builds... price is about the same between the two.

for the lowered rev-limit, in KPro, look under the Parameters window, "Protection" tab.
You can also check the "Rev-Limits" tab and make sure you don't have some weird launch control setting.
No doubt, the cost of hoses, fittings, clamps, bolts, chemicals, etc can run into the hundreds and maybe even $1000 or more. This is something people should definitely keep in mind.

I checked the rev limits tab as well as the protections and I don't see anything enabled that would cause a 4000rpm "limp mode" if that indeed is what's happening. I do remember seeing that it threw a trouble code a bit ago when I started the car that said the battery voltage was low. Apparently, this can cause it to throw this code. Specifically, it denotes an error connecting to the K-Pro daughter board. Apparently, this can induce a limp mode. I will have to hook up to KManager and see if this is still what's happening. Might it be something as simple as having a fully charged battery to start the car with? The last couple of times, the battery was kinda weak from sitting without a tender. I just have the Big Crank ETX20L, so it is a bit small...
 

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I checked the rev limits tab as well as the protections and I don't see anything enabled that would cause a 4000rpm "limp mode" if that indeed is what's happening. I do remember seeing that it threw a trouble code a bit ago when I started the car that said the battery voltage was low. Apparently, this can cause it to throw this code. Specifically, it denotes an error connecting to the K-Pro daughter board. Apparently, this can induce a limp mode. I will have to hook up to KManager and see if this is still what's happening. Might it be something as simple as having a fully charged battery to start the car with? The last couple of times, the battery was kinda weak from sitting without a tender. I just have the Big Crank ETX20L, so it is a bit small...
Do you not have a MIL? If not, I'd install one now (or connect it to the OEM dash)... it'll help with troubleshooting issues. And yes, if there's a daughter board connection issue, the MIL will illuminate and may go into limp mode.
 

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Discussion Starter · #338 ·
I have the AIM MXL dash, I have the first warning light set as the MIL. While rooting around in my .kal last night I did notice that the tuner had not enabled the MIL light. I'll have to try that. It's looking more and more like the battery is not providing enough voltage during startup and it's preventing K-Pro from initializing properly thus throwing it into limp mode.

Common causes of this in normal Honda chassis k-swaps is people relocating their batteries and not having sufficient gauge wires to carry load. Or incomplete/bad ground arrangements.

I'm guessing my battery is just too weak. Well, I hope so anyway.
 

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Butters car is looking good. I just finished up my k swap as well. Went with the mxs dash. How did you do your fuel level? Mind sharing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #340 ·
Dude, MXS is suh-weet!

My fuel level is just read from the sender without any of the maths done by the stock gauge cluster. As such it fluctuates wildly as the fuel sloshes around. You can only get a good reading of actual fuel levels when the car is stopped on flat ground and the liquid has stopped sloshing around. Kinda sucks but you can kinda average the numbers in your head...
 
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