thats horrible new man, and that some horrible work i see too. Keep your head high, when that thing in finally finished it will put a smile on your face and bring back some life to you. Hard work and dedication
I have built a few race cars, so the engine 'conversion' task is not new to me.
The biggest lesson is to find people that worked with your engine and technology before. I use Corvette spline and bearing hubs on my Honda axles, because, I know these parts.
1. I bought an assembled motor from a reputable shop. I bought it from a customer that never used it. However, I talked to the shop, got the build sheet and got references.
2. I found reputable sources of aftermarket parts. This came from Honda forums k20a.org.
3. I found a local tuner and watched him tune a similar set-up, before I let him touch mine.
I cannot over-emphasize (1). I had to replace cams and thought that I should be able to handle the timing. Bent 2 valves!
Whenever, you undertake such complex projects some problems are to be expected.
I had a bad MAP sensor. It was brand new. The car would almost start i.e. catch, then moment ECU went into its standard mode, it would say MAP=0 so fuel =0 and stop. Took me a day to figure it out. I cannot build a motor, but I am good at diagnostics.
If there is a lesson I'm taking away from all this is that you should indeed do as much of the work yourself if you can.
If I had a bunch of money laying around that I could burn on lawyer fees I'd think about suing those bastards. But as it stands, I don't. However, good news is some other, richer, guy is doing that already. I don't suspect they'll be in business that much longer...
I made a custom bracket for the TB side and added another return spring at the pedal (pic is in this thread someplace)
The cable routes from the pedal through the tunnel (following the e brake cable) into the engine bay, then up to the custom bracket.
If there's slop, you have adjusters on both ends to deal with.
Not really sure how one could hook it up improperly...
It's hanging on the TB side or the pedal side (or possibly in the middle), disconnect one end at a time to test. with both ends disconnected you should be able to easy move the cable back and forth within the sheath.
If the cable's fine then look for binding at the pedal and tb.
In 2014 I stripped my newly acquired Exige Cup 240 track car third gear. I had trans rebuilt with JUBU 3rd and Fourth bought from Monkey Wrench. Now, I am replacing broken second/first synchro and I find that 3rd and fourth are very loose on the splines. The gears even wobble. Splines look...
I am finishing up the install of the Inokinetic Ultimate shift package, which includes the Short shift linkage. While, for the most part, the directions/video provided by Inkinetic is accurate and helpful, I found the short shift linkage somewhat perplexing. This post describes in detail how to...
I have a British, 2002 K series elise, which I decided to upgrade by installing a reconditioned VVC head, and with the Piper solid cam conversion, although I chose not to install vernier pulleys.
I have the 285H cams, and its running a stock ECU (for the time being).
I've noted before that I love the results of my Torque200 tune, but one of the drawbacks is the hard start. It takes 2-3 cranks before it now whimpers to a start. How many folks experience this same issue?