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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I've been battling with the Cobra alarm unit for an hour now... I can enter the programming mode and navigate my way through... I just need to know which function under the "Functions Table" eliminates both the alarm and immobilizer from coming on when pressing the "A" button. Basically, all I want is for the key fob to lock and unlock my doors, that's it. No alarm, no immobilizer. Is there some extra secret function that isn't in the programming guide?? I've tried options "L, M, and N"... none do what I want.

EDIT: And yes, I've searched the forums. There have been posts stating that this is possible, but none give the actual sequence to do it.
 

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There is no programing function to do what you want.
Cheers,
Michael
Hi,

I've been battling with the Cobra alarm unit for an hour now... I can enter the programming mode and navigate my way through... I just need to know which function under the "Functions Table" eliminates both the alarm and immobilizer from coming on when pressing the "A" button. Basically, all I want is for the key fob to lock and unlock my doors, that's it. No alarm, no immobilizer. Is there some extra secret function that isn't in the programming guide?? I've tried options "L, M, and N"... none do what I want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick response. Is there any way to do what I want? I'm not afraid to rip things apart/jumper wires, etc.
 

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Yes there is:
MODIFYING ALARM WHILE CDL REMAINS OPERABLE
1) Immobilizer - Wires that terminate at immobilizer plug terminals 1 & 6 (fuel pump) and 5 & 12 (starter) to be splice together (1 to 6 & 5 to 12). Immobilizer plug must remain connected.
2) Microwave Sensor – Disconnect all wires a Microwave and insulate ends.
3) Directional Indicator Lights – Disconnect Alarm Module wires, GW (green/white) from terminal 5 and GR (green/red) from terminal 7.
4) Siren – Leave all external wires connected. Remove screws and remove panel to gain access to the internals. Disconnect the two wires that go from the circuit board to the speaker & insulate ends.
5) OPTIONAL (without this modification these three switches will still trigger an alarm) – Trunk & Front Access Panel Switches – Disconnect Alarm Module wire RK (red/pink) from terminal 21
6) OPTIONAL (without this modification these two door switches will still trigger and alarm and the interior light will not operate automatically) - Door Switches – Install a 1k resistor between the Interior Light P (purple) wire and the Alarm Module PW (purple/white) wire, terminal 9. Cut and insulate the same PW (purple/white) wire after the resistor connection. Order of connections in PW wire; “cut”, “Resistor connection”, “Alarm terminal 9”.
Michael

Thanks for the quick response. Is there any way to do what I want? I'm not afraid to rip things apart/jumper wires, etc.
 

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Thanks for the quick response. Is there any way to do what I want? I'm not afraid to rip things apart/jumper wires, etc.
Okay, I've got to ask... Why do you want to disable the alarm? You can disable things so that they don't come on automatically, but what's the problem of the alarm coming on when you lock the doors? :confused:
 

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Hi

I'm going on vacation soon for 2 to 4 weeks and want to minimize battery drainage
(I don't have access to an electrical outlet for a battery tender).

If I

1. lock the doors manually, and
2. don't press the key fob alarm button

I'm assuming the engine imobiliser will turn ON and the alarm senors will all remain OFF.

Can anyone confirm if this is correct and will help to improve battery life significantly?

Thanks
 

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Hi

I'm going on vacation soon for 2 to 4 weeks and want to minimize battery drainage
(I don't have access to an electrical outlet for a battery tender).

If I

1. lock the doors manually, and
2. don't press the key fob alarm button

I'm assuming the engine imobiliser will turn ON and the alarm senors will all remain OFF.

Can anyone confirm if this is correct and will help to improve battery life significantly?

Thanks
Wait for the beeping red light on the Dashboard cluster to come on. Then press the right button. This puts it into "valet" mode.

"At the next arming command, the valet mode will be switched
off, and normal immobilisation resume." Manual, page 31.
 

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Thanks.

I should have clarified, that I want the imobilizer to be ON (for extra security) and just turn the alarm OFF to reduce the battery drain.

(If that's possible.)
 

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All that you stated is true. If your Immobilizer is programmed to arm passively (automatically) there will be a lessor drain than arming the alarm also. For 2 weeks, with a healthy, large AH battery it should be OK. Another alternative if you were not worried about security would be to disconnect the negative battery terminal. Just read what you added, Yes, do exactly as you stated.
Cheers,
Michael
Hi

I'm going on vacation soon for 2 to 4 weeks and want to minimize battery drainage
(I don't have access to an electrical outlet for a battery tender).

If I

1. lock the doors manually, and
2. don't press the key fob alarm button

I'm assuming the engine imobiliser will turn ON and the alarm senors will all remain OFF.

Can anyone confirm if this is correct and will help to improve battery life significantly?

Thanks
 

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Registered
Joined
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12,374 Posts
2. don't press the key fob alarm button

I'm assuming the engine immobilizer will turn ON and the alarm senors will all remain OFF.
Yep. The immobilizer will automatically activate, but the alarm will not. When the alarm activates, it increases the current draw by about 50% - if I remember correctly the alarm/immobilizer draws 10 ma with the alarm off, and 15 with the alarm on.

The car has a "dark current" draw of around 50 ma (if I remember correctly), which includes the ECU, the radio, and the immobilizer/alarm.
 

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Alarm/Immobilizer Only - Cobra 8186 manual – 9ma Disarmed 13ma Armed

Whole Car (not inc. radio) - Service Notes, Section MP, Page 17, Quiescent Drain whole car – 15ma Immobilizer Active 20ma Alarm Set
 

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problem with CDL Module 2005 elise alarm system

I have 2005 Elise which has a Cobra model 7777 from Delta Electronica Ce 06780. CDL module is not responding even after sync with the fobs. I have taen it to the dealer and they told me i have to replace it with the new one. Price Ouuuccchhh. no way it should cost so much.
1.has anyone replaced the system with the after market and if so, what's the name brand?
2. what's the brand name?
3. I am in Houston, texas, name of the installer?
4. where do i get the wiring diagram?
4. any other option to this problem.
Thanks for your help.
Texan11
:huh:
 

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I have 2005 Elise which has a Cobra model 7777 from Delta Electronica Ce 06780. CDL module is not responding even after sync with the fobs. I have taen it to the dealer and they told me i have to replace it with the new one. Price Ouuuccchhh. no way it should cost so much.
1.has anyone replaced the system with the after market and if so, what's the name brand?
2. what's the brand name?
3. I am in Houston, texas, name of the installer?
4. where do i get the wiring diagram?
4. any other option to this problem.
Thanks for your help.
Texan11
:huh:
I have used modules.
Michael
 

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Yes there is:
MODIFYING ALARM WHILE CDL REMAINS OPERABLE
1) Immobilizer - Wires that terminate at immobilizer plug terminals 1 & 6 (fuel pump) and 5 & 12 (starter) to be splice together (1 to 6 & 5 to 12). Immobilizer plug must remain connected.
2) Microwave Sensor – Disconnect all wires a Microwave and insulate ends.
3) Directional Indicator Lights – Disconnect Alarm Module wires, GW (green/white) from terminal 5 and GR (green/red) from terminal 7.
4) Siren – Leave all external wires connected. Remove screws and remove panel to gain access to the internals. Disconnect the two wires that go from the circuit board to the speaker & insulate ends.
5) OPTIONAL (without this modification these three switches will still trigger an alarm) – Trunk & Front Access Panel Switches – Disconnect Alarm Module wire RK (red/pink) from terminal 21
6) OPTIONAL (without this modification these two door switches will still trigger and alarm and the interior light will not operate automatically) - Door Switches – Install a 1k resistor between the Interior Light P (purple) wire and the Alarm Module PW (purple/white) wire, terminal 9. Cut and insulate the same PW (purple/white) wire after the resistor connection. Order of connections in PW wire; “cut”, “Resistor connection”, “Alarm terminal 9”.
Michael
Maybe I'm too stupid (or smart) to follow these instructions. I've tried several combinations and can't get my immobilizer disabled and still be able to start the car.
Steps so far:
1) I spliced the 1&6 and 5&12 wires from the immobilizer plug together. I cut the wires on the car side (not the immobilizer side) and spliced them there. The wires from the immobilizer side are open circuit.

2) I disconnected the plug on the microwave sensor.

3) I did not do this step. Is this necessary?

4) I have not disconnected this yet. It's inside the left front wheel arch, right?

5) I cut the wire red/pink on the alarm module plug.

6) I did not do this.

I have not spliced the brown and purple/pink wires together yet to get the flashing LED.

What I want is: the flashing light when the doors are locked, the fob can lock/unlock the doors, but if that alarm every goes off again for any reason I'll start tearing parts off until to stops! I (and my wife especially) am tired of the car getting lonely in the middle of the night and crying for attention.

Symptoms:
With the alarm plugged in when I lock the doors the alarm sounds immediately.
With the alarm unplugged the LED is off, but the car will not start. And the CDL doesn't work.

I tried plugging and unplugging the immobilizer plug and the alarm plug in every permutation.

I know there are a lot of questions here. Can you guys help?

Thanks,
Rick
 

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Maybe I'm too stupid (or smart) to follow these instructions. I've tried several combinations and can't get my immobilizer disabled and still be able to start the car.

Steps so far:

1) I spliced the 1&6 and 5&12 wires from the immobilizer plug together. I cut the wires on the car side (not the immobilizer side) and spliced them there. The wires from the immobilizer side are open circuit.



2) I disconnected the plug on the microwave sensor.



3) I did not do this step. Is this necessary?



4) I have not disconnected this yet. It's inside the left front wheel arch, right?



5) I cut the wire red/pink on the alarm module plug.



6) I did not do this.



I have not spliced the brown and purple/pink wires together yet to get the flashing LED.



What I want is: the flashing light when the doors are locked, the fob can lock/unlock the doors, but if that alarm every goes off again for any reason I'll start tearing parts off until to stops! I (and my wife especially) am tired of the car getting lonely in the middle of the night and crying for attention.



Symptoms:

With the alarm plugged in when I lock the doors the alarm sounds immediately.

With the alarm unplugged the LED is off, but the car will not start. And the CDL doesn't work.



I tried plugging and unplugging the immobilizer plug and the alarm plug in every permutation.



I know there are a lot of questions here. Can you guys help?



Thanks,

Rick

It is soooo much easier and cleaner to just put everything back to normal and use the PIN method unless you want to completely remove all the alarm components from the car


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Does this: "DISARMING ALARM/IMMOBILIZER USING PIN" totally disable the alarm so it will never be set off? Trunk lid, etc. won't set it off?

Does this give me the flashing LED? That and locked doors seems like a pretty good deterrent. I suppose I have a couple of 555's laying around if it came to it. :)
 

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Does this: "DISARMING ALARM/IMMOBILIZER USING PIN" totally disable the alarm so it will never be set off? Trunk lid, etc. won't set it off?



Does this give me the flashing LED? That and locked doors seems like a pretty good deterrent. I suppose I have a couple of 555's laying around if it came to it. :)

As an experiment, I left mine for over a month in a parking garage on the first level and unlocked. The car wasn't entered once, and I've learned that parking nose-in reduces the number of selfies taken with it. So the 555 timer may be overkill and you'll want an off switch that allows you to still use the rev limiter.

The PIN disable on disabled the active immobilization. You can still enable immobilization when you want using the key fob, just like a normal car


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
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