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Discussion Starter #1
Thinking of buying one of these QuickJacks primarily for use with the 2003 Esprit, but also maybe others e.g the 2009 Corvette.

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They have 2 versions with 5,000lb capacity. The standard model 5000SLX has max fwd/aft lift point spread of 60" and the extended model 5000EXT has a spread up to 66."

I would use the standard Esprit lift points which measured at ~60.5" center to center. This means they could be just a tad too far apart for the standard version. Especially after I factor putting slotted ~3" hockey pucks over the lift points so as not to bend the tabs, ie that pushes the overall spread to 63. 5." Dang it...

Of course the easy answer is to buy the extended lift but (1) it's more expensive, (2) it may not work as well with my other vehicles, and (3) the longer ramps might encounter some interference with the tires as it raises.

They also have SLX frame extensions (shown in the first pic above) which could help with the standard model, but that means more expense, weight, pieces to store, a bit less clearance in the down position, and again potential interference with the tires as the lift raises.

Just wondering if anyone has experience using this lift (or another portable alternative) with an Esprit?
 

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I have the 5000SLX and was looking at the extension kit, because you're correct - the liftpoints are just a few inches too far apart. Two things stopped me from buying the extension kit:

1. It was insane money ... about $350 shipped!
2. They were out of stock

So instead, I purchased a 12' long 2x6 and made my own. Total cost was $9 and15 minutes. It works a treat. Because you only need an extension of about 3", nothing flexes at all, plus you get an extra inch or two of lift.

A couple of things to be aware of: mine had instructions which didn't match the components. They changed the hydraulic fluid capacity and didn't update the instructions, which caused a transmission fluid spill in my garage. It was also missing some documentation, and had a defective valve. Customer service was hideously unprofessional when I sent a description of the issues and requested support. Ultimately they sent me replacement parts and a gift as an apology ... but I would've preferred to just have good service out of the gate.

It's a useful tool, and I'd recommend it if for whatever reason you can't do a regular lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have the 5000SLX and was looking at the extension kit, because you're correct - the liftpoints are just a few inches too far apart. Two things stopped me from buying the extension kit:

1. It was insane money ... about $350 shipped!
2. They were out of stock

So instead, I purchased a 12' long 2x6 and made my own. Total cost was $9 and15 minutes. It works a treat. Because you only need an extension of about 3", nothing flexes at all, plus you get an extra inch or two of lift.

A couple of things to be aware of: mine had instructions which didn't match the components. They changed the hydraulic fluid capacity and didn't update the instructions, which caused a transmission fluid spill in my garage. It was also missing some documentation, and had a defective valve. Customer service was hideously unprofessional when I sent a description of the issues and requested support. Ultimately they sent me replacement parts and a gift as an apology ... but I would've preferred to just have good service out of the gate.

It's a useful tool, and I'd recommend it if for whatever reason you can't do a regular lift.
Excellent, thanks! I thought about the 2x6 route and was concerned about load bearing, very good to hear it's not an issue in actual practice.
 

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No problem ... FYI, I glued-and-screwed cleats to the underside of the 2x6 extensions to correctly support and locate them in the pockets of the QuickJack.

If you use offcuts of the 2x6 for the cleats, the extension will clear the top of the QuickJack by about 1/4" so the load is supported where it's intended.

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I have the 5000 SLX, bought the needed extensions as the SLX is indeed too short for proper puck placement (ooof). Lifts nice and quickly, be careful when trying to bleed the lines: they recommend lifting a bit but as they mentioned in the manual, to high a lift will make it very difficult to bring them back down without the weight of the car. They were stuck in the partially up position and I needed a bunch of cinder blocks as well as me gently jumping on them to force them back down. The higher the position, the less the mechanical advantage for the load on the cylinder.

After a couple of cycles with the car's full weight, they come down on their own now and evenly.

I found that Bendpak as a company is not the easiest to work with. They said they could not ship to my work address, and I didn't want such a large set of boxes on my front lawn in full view of the street, so I picked up the SLXs from the warehouse. When the extensions were finally in stock, I arranged to pick them up, but received an email that they were going to be delivered to my work address the next day. When I tried to notify the shipper that I would pick up in the lobby, their website instructed that I could not change the delivery option until after one attempt was made. Therefore, I told the mailroom to refuse the package so I could change the option. This resulted in the package being sent back to Bendpak.

When I emailed back to my contact at Bendpak, I received no reply for 2 weeks, then after opening another ticket, the original contact replied that I did not direct my inquiry to customer service (???). Her reply email was the customer service group in that domain. Anyway, after a third ticket, I was told that I could pick up the extensions at the warehouse.

The very delayed lift blocks that were also on backordered were simply cancelled with no reason. I figured I've spent enough money on this company to no longer deal with the simple stupidity. The product is good, but just be ready for a bit of weirdness if it happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wow. It's a shame to have to put up with this BS, too bad they seem to have a lock on this desirable product. Sounds like they know it. Thanks for the insights.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wound up ordering mine from Home Depot, no delivery problems. Bit of a pain to assemble but no real issues (yet), worked right out of the box. Thanks again for the info and encouragement.
 

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Nice - do you drive over them or slide them under from the side?

What did you do for the extension - the wood?

Looks very nice and reasonably priced for most work. I wish I could fit a lift but no way.

I have been kind of half waiting to see if Harbor Freight would come out with a rip off version for 2/3 the cost......because I have a death wish :)
 

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This is very intriguing.
Might have to give myself an early birthday preset. The deal on HD right now seems hard to beat. I spent nearly that much on my floor jack and jackstands already.
Erik, re: driving over top of them. I doubt that's best practice.
I could see me "storing" them pinched together under the car and spread them out to use them.
 

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You cannot drive over the quick jacks. I usually store them under the vehicle. If you do buy, it is important to measure your vehicles lift point spread to ensure you are getting the correct model. For other Lotus cars with offset jack points you will need to use a cross brace or use the quick jack perpendicular to the car. For my Evora I only have 5 inches of clearance under the vehicle which works fine for storage but when using the cross brace I need to put the car on lift blocks to use the quick jack to get enough clearance under the lift points. The system is kind of costly but worth the investment as I have owned the 3500 which I sold and bought the 5000 SLX for my Evora.
 

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If you use the 2 sets of soft blocks that come with the kit you should not have to worry about bending your lift points, but I do not know what the underside of an Esprit looks like. If you are patient enough to wait until black friday they sometimes sell for $999 with shipping included.
 

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I think I have seen some one put large holes in their garage floor and put the quick jacks in the holes so they were level with the floor. Then they could just drive on. But maybe that was not a quick jack. They definitely look not designed to drive on.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Right, the ramps and hoses are not to be driven on, the mfgr is very adamant about that.

With hydraulic line quick disconnects the 2 ramps and pump can be separated for storage. To conserve garage space I stow mine under the car, pushed together on centerline. Of course they can also be separated and stored outboard of the wheels, but either way must be moved into position under the lift points for use. Did not want to be dragging the steel ramps across the concrete garage floor so I made wood bases for them, using the 1/4" plywood that was part of the packaging.

As discussed earlier the "standard" BL-5000SLX model is just a bit short for the Esprit lift points so you need the $300 OEM steel extensions, or $8 2x6 boards. I am using 2x4's for initial fit checks, but will switch to 2x6 for extra safety margin.

Also using slotted hockey pucks to protect the lift point bracket vertical tabs.

So far this seems like a great investment. Very quick and easy to get all 4 wheels off the ground and 27" or so working space under the car. I've seen these in use at the race track also, another advantage of the portability.

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Wingless Wonder
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Steve, nice job 'slotting' those hockey pucks. :cool: You must own a router?

...using slotted hockey pucks to protect the lift point bracket vertical tabs.
This is an important point for later Stevens Esprits. The straight tabs that hang down are solely to reduce the possibility of the floor-jack from slipping, they are NOT load bearing pieces. That is what the sills themselves are for. (Even those creak a bit when loaded!) o_O

Earlier Esprits like our '88 have little 'saddles' under the sills that position the jack.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Steve, nice job 'slotting' those hockey pucks. :cool: You must own a router?



This is an important point for later Stevens Esprits. The straight tabs that hang down are solely to reduce the possibility of the floor-jack from slipping, they are NOT load bearing pieces. That is what the sills themselves are for. (Even those creak a bit when loaded!) o_O

Earlier Esprits like our '88 have little 'saddles' under the sills that position the jack.
Thanks Atwell. Do not own a router. I started by drilling a hole in the puck then elongated it with a jig saw. Come to think of it I actually had the jig saw clamped upside down to my portable table saw with the blade extending up through the table surface. Worked quite well, don't have any pics but OSHA regs would probably prohibit publishing them anyway 😳.

Not the cleanest cut, a router might be better, but the rougher slot actually has the advantage you can push the puck onto the tab and it will grab and stay there while you position the jack under it.

Some brackets I've seen have the vertical tab completely flattened. In that case hockey pucks without the slot can be used. Of course that also makes the onboard jack useless, or dangerous to use at best.

When I bought my car all 4 brackets were partly flattened (surprising since all the records I have indicate quality maintenance, but I guess it just takes one inattentive lift operator). I managed to carefully bend all of them back to vertical or nearly so, just had to replace a couple pop rivets. Tested with the onboard jack and they are good now.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
...With hydraulic line quick disconnects the 2 ramps and pump can be separated for storage. To conserve garage space I stow mine under the car, pushed together on centerline. Of course they can also be separated and stored outboard of the wheels, but either way must be moved into position under the lift points for use. Did not want to be dragging the steel ramps across the concrete garage floor so I made wood bases for them, using the 1/4" plywood that was part of the packaging....
Just a "quick" follow up here...I found that even with the plywood bases the heavy steel ramp sections were stubbornly difficult to slide across the concrete floor, especially when reaching under the car to pull them off centerline and into position for lifting. Attached PVC lattice trim (another local hardware store item) under the plywood and now they slide very easily.

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For all of the room this quickjack takes up and the expense, a good floor jack and some jackstands are a lot more versatile and can do what the quickjack does and allow more room to work under the car with a creeper. Also easier to move and store and doesn't require any electric. These things are OK if all you want to do is wheel and suspension work. If you are working in a "tight" garage (small) be careful when lifting, the car will move slightly forward (or rearward depending on how you position the jack) as it goes up, If you do it with the garage door open, the door may not have room to close if the car was parked close to the door. If you were close to the wall up front the car may hit the wall. Just be careful. When lifting by the jack points be aware that you are lifting by the body, not the frame. Better to lift by the frame.
David Teitelbaum
 

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Just a "quick" follow up here...I found that even with the plywood bases the heavy steel ramp sections were stubbornly difficult to slide across the concrete floor, especially when reaching under the car to pull them off centerline and into position for lifting. Attached PVC lattice trim (another local hardware store item) under the plywood and now they slide very easily.

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Perfect! I bought this same lattice stuff for a wedding back drop and I've been wondering for months what to do with it. Good tip @71type65
 

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Wingless Wonder
1988 Esprit Turbo
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For all of the room this quickjack takes up and the expense, a good floor jack and some jackstands are a lot more versatile and can do what the quickjack does and allow more room to work under the car
Aww...David, the quickjacks are on SALE at Costco starting in a few weeks....
 
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