...call me a space cowboy
Richard, could you mention the brand/model or source?This I my setup....
Nick, I'm curious if you have had a chance to see the Quickjack face to face. If so, I'd be interested in more specific concerns you have about the stability.Get an an EZCarLift instead. It's 1000x more stable than a Quickjack and much better made (Made in USA, not cheap Chinese junk). Works great with the MWR lift kit.
Rear points are the EZCARLIFT "pucks" on the MWR lift point kit, front points are under the doors. Yes they are rear of the marked front lift points, but it's all an aluminum box there. Boytcho (inventor of the EZ car lift) has researched many cars and how to best/safely lift them on the EZ including the Elise. He talked directly to Lotus and they told him it's fine to lift it under the door hinges as the front points. I do have to lift it a bit w/ the Jack Helper at the rear to get it all the way under when rolling under, not really difficult. I roll the EZ car 90% of the way in from the rear, it hits under the front doors, then I lift the rear w/ the Jack Helper about 2 inches and position the EZ.Can you post a picture of the underside, specifically where the front and rear points are?
A friend has a QuickJack, so yes. Its frightening how wobbly it is up there. I would not use it for anything other than changing tires. I couldn't imaging torqueing a high torque bolt while laying under it on the QuickJack. If you look at the original adverts for the Quickjack it was basically made for people to take to the track to swap to track tires and swap back to drive home. I don't believe it was originally designed as a mechanics lift, but they market it as that now.Nick, I'm curious if you have had a chance to see the Quickjack face to face. If so, I'd be interested in more specific concerns you have about the stability.
I was very seriously considering the EZ car lift a couple years ago, and sought out a local owner who let me visit to see it. I was very impressed with it, it is no doubt a damn fine product. But I did feel it is overpriced, even taking into account the domestic origins. I'm always in favor of buying USA made products when I can (I even started a thread on the subject in another forum) but two grand , shipped, for what is not much more than a couple of weldments seemed a little out of line. If a power unit was included I'd consider the price appropriate.
So what do you think ? Pictures ? I was thing about picking one up before they sell out.I got the smallest model, the 3500, which is discontinued; distributors are selling off remaining stock.
Not using lift point adapters, so I have to drop the undertray first. But I have the undertray and diffuser set up with quick-release fasteners so it comes off pretty easily. I have one lifting frame at the two front lift points, and one lifting frame at the two points on the rear frame cross member (the standard rear jack stand points). The two lifting frames are oriented crosswise the the car.
You can download the manual from the ASE site. See the link in post #13.
Do you have some pictures from under the car?So I purchased the new Quickjack BL5000 SLX
I used two 4 foot 2inch steel tubes. Placed them on the frame rails of the Quickjack from one side to the other, then used the short rubber blocks at the lift points.
I can place a jack at the rear end and as I push the "up" button on the the Quickjack I can support the rear as the whole car goes up.
I've marked my steel tubes now so i can set it all up quickly.
The whole setup is very sturdy and the Quickjack locks in so that I can work under the car.
Should be good for a wheel change at the track and yes I'll be careful to support the rear as it lifts.
All in all it can be done
I'll time the process next time ...
I've been wondering the same thing... I think the MWR Lift Points are in-line with the front jack points and at nearly the same height. The problem is that they are too far apart (about 71" based on my rough estimate from photos and drawings and an inspection of my car) for all but the 6000XLT model -and that one is a bit higher and more expensive and heavier than the 3500SLX other people are using here.I don't see what you're saying about the side sills / aluminum frame. The car doesn't rest along the length of the jack. Instead you put rubber blocks (basically glorified hockey pucks) on top of the rails where the lift points for your car are, and the jack rail sits ~2" below the car.
I thought about getting one, but the jack points have to be close to in line (within the width of the jack frames) since there aren't any arms to position further inwards.
That rules that out for people without the MWR jack points, although for how comparatively cheap and awesome these look, needing the jack points would be a small price to pay...
Are the MWR points in line (or within a few inches of it) with the front jack points? Do they sit at the same height? If so, I think this would work for you.
I also don't think you use stands with one of these - there's a solid metal arm that you shift into place and lock once the jack is raised fully, and it takes the place of stands.