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Less is Better
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here's couple other views
Old thread, but I just bought a Quickjack. They offer a crossbar solution that is designed for exactly the purpose of non-parallel lift points. You only need one cross bar, theoretically. You can line the Quickjack up with the front lift points and used the extension in the rear. I am still on the fence on deciding to buy the bar from Quickjack or build my own as @ReDRuM did.


I watched a video of a guy with his truck on a set of Quickjacks running transversely, one on front and one on rear. He had a scary situation when lowering the truck because the uneven weight distribution of the truck lowered the front faster than the rear, tipping. That was enough to convince me NOT to do that with the Elise.
 

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Cool . That cross bar must be a new thing they make. Easy enough to make though

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There's not much to see. It's a 2"x1" steel tube. The pads that rest in the quickjack need to be at least 1.5" thick to clear the jack rails. The pucks are a little less than 1" thick. So the total stackup is 4.5" from the tray of the quickjack to the top of the puck that sets on the chassis. This is about equivalent to the tall pad that is supplied with the lift (which get used for the front lift points. I screwed a bolt into the bar at each pad location and have a corresponding hole in the pad/puck so they don't move around relative to the bar.

The bottom pads (the 1.5" tall ones) are spaced 34.5" apart, which is the spacing of the front jack points, and the pucks are 46.38" apart, the spacing between rear lift points.

The quickjacks are lined up with the front jack points and the bar with pads is set in the rear of the jack. This puts the quickjacks parallel with each other. My car is set just a tad under stock ride height (love those Nitrons) so I can fit everything under the car without having to drive up onto ramps. I also have a jack helper and I won't be doing anything with the car until that's supporting the rear with jack stands.
 

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Less is Better
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You shouldn't use the sides of the jack to support the weight of the car. The weight should be carried by the pan of the jack. I don't think the front and middle lift points are close enough to make that work even if I wanted to do it that way.
 

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I just wanted to note how much I like the Quickjack now that I've been able to use it for a couple of jobs. I used it to change to winter tires on my G37 yesterday and it is so nice to not have to lift one corner of the car at a time anymore. Just set up the jack, lift the car, spin off the lug nuts and reverse with the winters.

I'm also very impressed with the fact that the 5000 pound lift can lift everything from the Elise and Miata to larger cars like the G37 sedan and Subaru Outback at the correct lift points. Great tool and well worth the investment.
 

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Works great on my MR2 turbo too, and when I had my 350z .

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Less is Better
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2,480 Posts
There's not much to see. It's a 2"x1" steel tube. The pads that rest in the quickjack need to be at least 1.5" thick to clear the jack rails. The pucks are a little less than 1" thick. So the total stackup is 4.5" from the tray of the quickjack to the top of the puck that sets on the chassis. This is about equivalent to the tall pad that is supplied with the lift (which get used for the front lift points. I screwed a bolt into the bar at each pad location and have a corresponding hole in the pad/puck so they don't move around relative to the bar.

The bottom pads (the 1.5" tall ones) are spaced 34.5" apart, which is the spacing of the front jack points, and the pucks are 46.38" apart, the spacing between rear lift points.

The quickjacks are lined up with the front jack points and the bar with pads is set in the rear of the jack. This puts the quickjacks parallel with each other. My car is set just a tad under stock ride height (love those Nitrons) so I can fit everything under the car without having to drive up onto ramps. I also have a jack helper and I won't be doing anything with the car until that's supporting the rear with jack stands.
1257467
 

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I'll do some measurements this weekend to make sure it's not too long but baring that why wouldn't this work? If you ran it filezilla uc browser rufus down the side of the car is the frame/aluminum there strong enough for this? I do have the Sector/IMRP side skirts so I'm thinking I'd just run this down the side of the car below the skirts (again where the frame would be).
 
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