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Gents - not clear if anyone has in fact put anything on the fibreglass panels/tank cover directly behind the seats? The posts indicate that this material itself should be reasonably good at vibration damping, but that sound-deadening might make a difference?
 

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Gents - not clear if anyone has in fact put anything on the fibreglass panels/tank cover directly behind the seats? The posts indicate that this material itself should be reasonably good at vibration damping, but that sound-deadening might make a difference?
Both myself and psoup have. See pics above. I put more since I was after max dampening and not that worried about weight... The dampener and sound-deadening work on different things. The former kill vibrations of the panel it's attached to and the latter kill sound coming *through* the panel it's over.

I did the fiberglass panel, the top of the tank, and the aluminum wall in front of the tank. Plus the floor.

Hope this helps...
 

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Anyone try to put some damplifier under the dash? Mine rattles/vibrates some, but I'm not sure if its making much noise, other than the rattles ;)
Having had that dash out more than I ever wanted to, I have some observations: There *could* be a small amount of vibration of the bottom of the dash. However, I don't really think so. The whole thing is a sandwich of multiple materials and it partially seems to rest on foam tape on top of the AC ducts. I had a rattle that was caused by my little in-harness amp (mounted it on top of passenger airbag controller). The second time around I put some foam tape on top of the amp so it can't rattle against the dash...

From what I remember, the radio harness isn't tied down and I could imagine that one of the connectors could hit something and cause a rattle. A little word of warning: Taking the dash off and putting it back is a wee bit tedious and can cause blood loss... :D I have some pointers in case you wanna have a look under there (and haven't taken it off before).
 

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Guys, how did you manage to cover the corners of the firewall (far left and far right side) with damplifier??? or did you leave them without??
Because they seem to have very difficult angles..:crazyeyes

Any photos of the damplifier in place on the corners??

Thank you!!:bow::bow:
 

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Pic in post #47 shows my firewall covered in damplifier. Do you mean the empty corners? I cut up the Touring Pack foam and reused the "side-blocks" that go into those big holes...
 

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Discussion Starter #146 (Edited)
Guys, how did you manage to cover the corners of the firewall (far left and far right side) with damplifier??? or did you leave them without??
Because they seem to have very difficult angles..:crazyeyes

Any photos of the damplifier in place on the corners??

Thank you!!:bow::bow:
I am making cutout pieces to put between the firewall and the roll bar, then I will fill with polyester batting from Jo Ann's Fabric in the dead space behind the cutouts and cover the front to the roll bar with LLP. I am still in the process of fabricating these panels...Not sure yet what I will make them out of, Maybe thick hard styrofoam like they use on the exterior of buildings I think it is called Tyvek or something like that.

UPDATE: I went to home depot tonight, they sell a sheet of insulation styrofoam 1" x 24" x 8 ft for about $5.00. I am in the process of fashioning blocks as described...I'll post pics of the whole thing once done.
 

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Psoup thanks for the info, please do post pics, your posts and zuspie's are so helpful!!:bow::bow::clap::clap:


Pic in post #47 shows my firewall covered in damplifier. Do you mean the empty corners? I cut up the Touring Pack foam and reused the "side-blocks" that go into those big holes...
Yes I mean the empty corners, I am just having trouble naming all the different parts of our car-tube!:p:p

If you dont have the Touring Pack foam, is there an easy way to put Damplifier and LLP on those empty corners too???
 

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Discussion Starter #148
John, sorry I wasn't clear, basically I am cutting across the empty corners with the styrofoam from home depot, and putting the polyester batting from Jo Ann's Fabrics behind the styrofoam in the void. Then I will cover with LLP. When I get it done I will post pics, which should be clearer. It will be a major PITA to try and put damplifier and LLP back in those recesses, so best to just cut accross them and seal them off.
 

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BOE Silent Touch

If any of you exhaust designers out there are tuning in... seems like there's a market for an exhaust that sounds better than stock, is just as quiet, and is lighter weight!
FWIW: BOE makes a really Good sounding exhaust at WOT but very subdued growl at daily RPMs, the only draw back is it requires modification to the stock rear panel.

BOE Silent Touch Exhaust for Lotus Elise and Exige
 

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Now, on those recesses, you can reach the OTHER side from the rear-wheels. Take off the liner and you can reach up there, I swapped out my grills for mesh that way and thought, man, great design, I can almost reach the inside of my car from here! : )

You can put some overkill up there from the other side if you want, should help as well. The panel is fairly 'bendy', so I'm not sure of resonance, should be pretty solid.

I think someone posted earlier about the intake noise, same idea, just on both sides.
 

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I put damplifier under the seats, on top of the rock-hard grey sheet. It definitely reduces the resonance... just try tapping on it before and after. Then I put the LLP on top. And then the fuzzy "carpet" which is kinda ridiculous because it's not visible and not blocking any noise.

I didn't find that the damplifier changed anything when put on fiberglass. Different resonant frequencies than it was designed for, I suspect.

THe hardest part was the interior light fixture. I could never unplug the stupid wire so I squeezed it through the hole in the trim pane (and broke a tab in the process).
 

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Sorry to hear about the light. I was somehow able to unplug mine on the first try... I always feel like there should be a law about all connectors in a car having the same release mechanism... Push this, pull that, twist this is getting really old...

How are your overall impressions of the noise level?
 

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Discussion Starter #154
THe hardest part was the interior light fixture. I could never unplug the stupid wire so I squeezed it through the hole in the trim pane (and broke a tab in the process).
Ditto on the broken light. Did exactly the same thing. Have to order a new one from lotus garage, $52.....mega ouch. -eek-
 

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Sorry to hear about the light. I was somehow able to unplug mine on the first try... I always feel like there should be a law about all connectors in a car having the same release mechanism... Push this, pull that, twist this is getting really old...

How are your overall impressions of the noise level?
It's not "quiet", but it is "quieter". I can can hold a conversation with my passenger without straining my voice or my ears. And I can hear the stereo now! Before I added the sound insulation, it was a strain to converse, and the stereo was worthless while cruising. But I did swap out the rear speakers for some Sonys, so that explains part of the stereo improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Now, on those recesses, you can reach the OTHER side from the rear-wheels. Take off the liner and you can reach up there, I swapped out my grills for mesh that way and thought, man, great design, I can almost reach the inside of my car from here! : )

You can put some overkill up there from the other side if you want, should help as well. The panel is fairly 'bendy', so I'm not sure of resonance, should be pretty solid.

I think someone posted earlier about the intake noise, same idea, just on both sides.
Hmmm.. this is really interesting...I will have to examine this area more closely. If indeed the recess communicated with the wheel well covers, this may be a huge source of noise entering the cabin both from tire noise and exhaust as it would act like a funnel for sound, and isolating these recesses and super insulating them may make a tremendous difference in the sound levels...
 

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Ditto on the broken light. Did exactly the same thing. Have to order a new one from lotus garage, $52.....mega ouch. -eek-
I also broke the tab off my interior light when removing my rear panel a 5 years ago. I just used some black silicone RTV under the perimeter of the fixture to glue it to the panel (wiped off any excess RTV). It worked out fine, and held up for over 5 years. It was also fairly easy to remove the light again when I removed the panel last week (I just installed a clam hinge last week, and am now installing Damplifier Pro and Luxury Liner Pro while the seats and panels are out). Don't order a new light.
 

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Zuspel and Psoup:bow::bow::bow:

Just to be sure, in the firewall sound deadening proccess, the Damplifier (and LLP on top of it) is put on the fiberglass, right??
 

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Discussion Starter #159
I also broke the tab off my interior light when removing my rear panel a 5 years ago. I just used some black silicone RTV under the perimeter of the fixture to glue it to the panel (wiped off any excess RTV). It worked out fine, and held up for over 5 years. It was also fairly easy to remove the light again when I removed the panel last week (I just installed a clam hinge last week, and am now installing Damplifier Pro and Luxury Liner Pro while the seats and panels are out). Don't order a new light.
No, I really broke it...Popped the lens off and broke the tabs...I had a firm grip on it trying to pull off the connector and I guess I was squeezing it TOO tight.. rotfl rotfl
 

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Discussion Starter #160
Zuspel and Psoup:bow::bow::bow:

Just to be sure, in the firewall sound deadening proccess, the Damplifier (and LLP on top of it) is put on the fiberglass, right??
John, it is Fiberglass firewall -> Damplifier -> LLP...

However, to be completely honest, I don't know if damplifier will matter at all on the firewall, I put it very sparingly just "in case"...But honestly fiberglass is self dampening compared to a metal panel just because of the material it is made of, plus curved or contoured surfaces are also dampened by design. In general I have noticed little difference in resonance (by thumping on panels) that are made of fiberglass with the damplifier...

However, the dead spaces next to the firewall on either side seem like they are a source of significant sound penetration, see some of the posts above...and should probably be dealt with accordingly.
 
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