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Discussion Starter #1
So, I had my clear bra replaced last week on my 07 exige along with some minor fiberglass work on the underside of the clam (clam off work).
on the way home from the shop I notice my temp was at 220...
upon further investigation I have found out that my radiator fans are no longer coming on when the temp gets high.
however the fans do activate (at full rpm) if the AC is turned on. In addition I think the driver side fan may not be working 100%, there is a noticeable difference in air flow between the left and right side vents. I have examined the fuses and they appear good. I also looked at the ac relay and it also appears to be ok, I have not put a volt meter on it because I am not really sure what I sould look for.
temperature is fine when I am moving with or without the AC, it is just when I get into traffic that the temp goes up quick. If the AC is on it delays it a little but but eventually will get north of 215.

if one fan is bad would that cause this issue?
what else can I look at to help diagnose the problem?

thanks for the help guys

AJ
 

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So, I had my clear bra replaced last week on my 07 exige along with some minor fiberglass work on the underside of the clam (clam off work).
on the way home from the shop I notice my temp was at 220...
upon further investigation I have found out that my radiator fans are no longer coming on when the temp gets high.
however the fans do activate (at full rpm) if the AC is turned on. In addition I think the driver side fan may not be working 100%, there is a noticeable difference in air flow between the left and right side vents. I have examined the fuses and they appear good. I also looked at the ac relay and it also appears to be ok, I have not put a volt meter on it because I am not really sure what I sould look for.
temperature is fine when I am moving with or without the AC, it is just when I get into traffic that the temp goes up quick. If the AC is on it delays it a little but but eventually will get north of 215.

if one fan is bad would that cause this issue?
what else can I look at to help diagnose the problem?

thanks for the help guys

AJ
Sometimes when the clam is removed, wires get crimped on the re-install.
A few suggestions, replace fuse F14, sometimes they look OK, but are not.
You can troubleshoot the Fan module, but one step at a time.
The cabin AC vents have nothing to do with the cooling fans.
With the AC on and the fans working it should control the temperature rise, so maybe only one fan is working.
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Sirlotus,
I replaced both 14 and 19 fuses
still only one fan and no slow speed.
if a wire got crimped on the install of the clam where should I be looking for it? I assume there are more than one set of wires running to the fans?

Thanks again

AJ
 

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I think you may have a defective A/C Control Module, but check the plug connecter and wiring first.
There are ways to trouble shoot the module by jumping wires, let me know if you want to go that route.
Michael
 

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Sometimes the Fan Controller or its conections are disturbed when the clam is removed, check to see if contacts are clean and in place. #6 in the diagram.... is located under the right front fender on a LHD car, remove rt. side inspection cover and you will find it, has two plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks guys.
I will take a closer look at the wiring behind the ac module. It appeared the the wires were ok, but I have to confirm.
sirlotus, how would I go about testing the ac module to see if it is bad?

a side note, I was surprised to find that the fuse that was in #19 was a 30 amp fuse, I replaced it with a 20 amp...

AJ
 

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thanks guys.
I will take a closer look at the wiring behind the ac module. It appeared the the wires were ok, but I have to confirm.
sirlotus, how would I go about testing the ac module to see if it is bad?

a side note, I was surprised to find that the fuse that was in #19 was a 30 amp fuse, I replaced it with a 20 amp...

AJ
AJ,
You need to jumper the brown/orange to the purple/gray, thereby bypassing the #3 relay contact. If the relay is bad the both fans will operate at slow speed. If not we have to perform other tests. Good(smart) move in replacing with a 20A fuse.
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dumb question...
How would (should) I jump between the wires? should I get some spade connectors and make a simple patch cable? or can an aligator clip fit in there?
Is there anything I should be aware of with running (not driving) the car with the relay removed for this test?

Thanks again for your help
AJ
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok, I finally found time to testing the relay, life has been busy...
I made a quick patch cable out of 14 awg wire and some spade connectors, plugged in to the wiring harness at the brown/orange and purple gray wire ports...

nothing, no fans came on.
so, guess my relay is working fine. :shrug:

I assume I should test the fans themselves, can I test for continuity from the wiring harness or do I have to pop the clam off to get access to the wiring. Assuming I should be testing for continuity...

If i understand the wiring of the fans, half speed is run in series, full speed is parallel. so if one fan is bad, no fans would work at low speed (broken circuit) but in high speed it would still complete the circuit even if one fan is bad.

Thanks guys

AJ
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Conclusion to this whole deal...

One of my radiator fans was bad. I had Newport European replace my radiator and take a look at my fans. The drivers side fan was not spinning freely. VSA gave some downer fans when I was there to have them take a look at it.

Anyway, bad fans can happen :p.

AJ
 

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+1

I noticed two summers ago, that at speed, the temps were fine, but once I hit traffic, the car was overheating, BAD. Turned out that one of the fans went bad and were not turning on at all, which I replaced, and I was all back to normal.
 
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