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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
NOTE: Because the Exige rear clamshell is constructed differently, we were not able to improve the removal process as much as in our Elise modular rear clamshell kit. Contrary to popular belief, the Exige clamshell is straight forward and simpler in makeup with less fasteners.



This kit was designed to replace the factory Lotus Exige steel body shim spacers (shown below) with a permanently secured lightweight alternative.



The factory Lotus shims can be a nuisance if the clamshell is removed frequently. Because the shims are taped to the rear subframe, they easily lose their adhesiveness and alignment with the 4 trunk mounted through holes. They can also slip out from underneath each other and get lost. This kit fixes these problems by permanently securing the Radium shims with a flat countersink screw and locking pinch nut.

The shims start with 5052 aluminum plate and are laser cut with lightweight features. They are then vibratory tumble-deburred in house and anodized black to protect the surface from oxidation. This makes for a weight savings of 73% from stock. Note: the thickness of the shims are consistent and may vary slightly from the factory shim stack, but no noticeable difference in body fitment can be seen.



Comprehensive instructions are included with the kit. This manual includes details on removing the Exige rear clamshell, installation of the shims, and additional information on further improving the removability of the rear clamshell.

Initial removal will take 1.5 to 2 hours. However, with some modifications, as detailed in the manual, the process can be reduced to 10 minutes or less.

Kit Includes:
-Laser cut anodized aluminum body shims (x4)
-Stainless steel countersink M6 screws (x4)
-Conical top M6 oval locking pinch nuts (x4)
-Detailed installation instructions



The aluminum Radium shims bolt in place for a more permanent solution using stainless steel countersink hardware.

The product store page is HERE
 

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Sweet! You guys are quick with this! So by using this system; how exactly is it making it quicker for removal?

Or is this just more of a shim stack replacement for convenience/aesthetics/minor weight?
 

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Thanks
 

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that's great! 10 minutes is a HUGE improvement. I'll need to find a weekend free when I can order/install this.
 

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I have never removed my rear clam but how is it suppose make it quicker? It takes the same amount of steps...

I know radium makes visually stunning products...And from the ad... it sounds like one of those buy it and we will let you know the secret kinda thing as seens on TV ad..."we will make you rich if you follow our instruction"

The kit simply replace stock shims with shims that are screwed in somewhat permanently. Why dont people just put screws through the factory shims?:confused:



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One could Glue the shims down to the frame like I did... And go to BOE's clam hinge instruction manual and utilize their modifications...


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It's not too bad I had my car in a million pieces though. If you read my thread on my k swap you'll see that I'm about as far from master mechanic as you can get lol.


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Discussion Starter #11
You are all correct. These are not a "must have" product for clam removal. The shims are simply, like stated earlier, a convenience/aesthetic/minor weight advantage. We tried to keep the price low as possible since we understand this fact.
The Exige, unlike the Elise, is fairly easy to get the clam off. For example, you do not have to remove the seats or the rear speaker panel, but in the Elise you do.
We are hoping that this kit will give Exige owners an excuse to finally remove their rear clamshell and realize how badly they need a turbo kit!:)

If you are determined to get the most out of your clamshell removal, the single most effective thing you can do to speed the process is to relocate the battery out of the trunk.
Feel free to contact us directly with any questions.
 

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Like the Radium boys (and Tina) ;-) are saying, this is vastly different from the Elise kit, due to the construction differences in the 2 cars. But is only 59 bucks too... Having the shims installed will definitely make things easier on clam replacement. Consider the 4 aluminum pieces as 4 little hands. Yeah, you could glue the shims or something, but this gives a permanent 'fixed' solution in the car. Like all Radium stuff, the instructions will be epic, and are probably worth the price of admission alone.

If you've never removed a clam before, it's an interesting but very cool experience. There's just SO MUCH goodness under there that you can't see with the clam on. When I did the initial Exige oil line kit install with Kevin Takalo on my car, we took the clam off of mine for the first time. I understand that it's more involved than the rear clam removal. I think that J.P. and Aaron at Radium have removed their rear clam in just under 3 minutes, as a record. I've seen that car at the track with it's clam off more often than on. Usually if it's not flying around the track, it's clamless in the pits. When Kevin and I did the clam removal on my car the absolute biggest pain in the a$$ was the damn shims. They're U shaped and vertically oriented, so it's somewhat apples and oranges. BUT, when you finally get the clam SAFELY returned to the car... and you hear that damn *clink* sound as one of the shims hits the floor. Well, that really sucks.

Anyone who's seen any of the offerings from Radium will agree that the quality of the parts they sell is second to none.

This is their catch can kit.

I bought this to replace my Sector 111 can's. Super nice stuff, great instructions, and they have dipsticks.

Even picked up their silicone coupler kit.

Yes... I need new tubes.

I've seen most of it on track days and have a few items in my car. Just put new tires on it, and we're having our customary 2 weeks of summer, so I'm driving while the weather is good. But, I'm ordering a set of these for when I do take my rear clam off this Winter. I had considered ordering a clam hinge, and even had one 'added to shopping cart' at one point. But with the hinge kit, your buying some access, but still have the damn thing in the way and can't approach the car from the rear at all. I'd rather have it laying on the floor across the garage than fight with it. Your mileage may vary... but that's how I see it.

The way I see it, you're just making the process much easier for future clam removal. There are some cool tricks that Radium have learned taking their clam off so regularly, and things that will absolutely save bundles of time on subsequent removal/replacements. Especially for track guys. Killer directions are damn near priceless to me, as I hate going it alone the first time without good hints and spending twice the time necessary on a project. The shims are almost a freebie, plus they're a nice piece of automotive jewelery for the times when you're caught with your clam off. ;)

BTW, I don't work for these guys.. not sponsored by them.. etc. Just really appreciate that we have another vendor making very high quality stuff for our cars. It's not like they're banging out parts for Civics where they're going to sell 5000 units of something. I appreciate companies that support a very small demographic like our cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
One could Glue the shims down to the frame
We did this for the first 3 years using custom aluminum shims. You can kind of see them below.



We tried Hot Glue, RTV, and even JB Weld. For whatever reason, none of them stayed on very long. Maybe it's because our clam is always ON/OFF. So eventually, this lead us to countersink screws with locking nuts.
 

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When I took the rear clam off my 2006 Exige, I had to take out the seats, etc, etc and it took a few hours. Can it really be done in 15 minutes? Was I doing it wrong?
 

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Exige Clam

I want one for my Exige S!!! Will it be made?
 

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When I took the rear clam off my 2006 Exige, I had to take out the seats, etc, etc and it took a few hours. Can it really be done in 15 minutes? Was I doing it wrong?
That's how long it takes when you take it off the first time. What you do then is take a knife to some of the plastic and trim and leave out the bolts behind the seats so you never have to take the seats out again.

And then if you really want to get fancy, you relocate the battery so that you don't have to disconnect the wiring for that either.
 

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I happen to have interior out right now (seats/harness bar etc).. I tried to scan Phil's tilting clam instructions.. only saw to remove inner roll bar to clam bolts.. was that it? I guess I don't see why I couldn't get to that even with the seats in? I must be missing something.
 
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