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Discussion Starter #1
With the new suspension setup I just bought for my '02 V8 (I'll make a separate thread on that with some pictures), I also bought a full set of new poly bushings.

For the bushing that attaches the rear radius arm to the chassis, is there a trick toi readily replace it? Getting at the backside of that bushing looks a little crowded. Are the nuts on the backside captive so the bushing can be secured to the arm first and then the bushing fastened to the chassis (without need to gain access to the backside)?

Knut
 

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You will need to remove the heat shields to gain access to the 7/16" bolt head (assuming you aren't removing the entire trailing arm). The M8 bolts pass through to captive nuts on a tapping plate on the inside of the chassis.
 

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Is must be difficult because that's why they went to split shims on the V8 so you don't have to remove the pushing to make alignment/toe changes. I seem to remember reading something about the turbo's being in the way.

On another topic, several "experts" have advised strongly against a full set of poly bushings for the Esprit. Something about the chassis not liking it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ugh... that's what I thought might be the case, and it looks like there is a lot of stuff in the way of getting the heat shield out as well.

So how about I just remove the entire radius arm with the bushing attached (since the nuts that secure the bushing to the frame are captive)? Will the whole arm with bushing attached come out much easier (and go in easier)?

Knut



You will need to remove the heat shields to gain access to the 7/16" bolt head (assuming you aren't removing the entire trailing arm). The M8 bolts pass through to captive nuts on a tapping plate on the inside of the chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not sure what experts speak for this and what the info is based on, but the radius arm poly bushing I have is a genuine Lotus part. Delrin bushes are substantially harder than their rubber counterparts and don't have nearly the compliance, but poly bushes are not as hard as that but have benefits in durability. Although my car only has 11K miles on it, the rubber bushes I replaced in the rear linkages were generally oblonged and deformed in various ways so they were already deteriorating. Being more durable against this is not necessarily the same thing as being hard and non-compliant.

Even so, if there is real data (not rumours) on the use of poly bushes, I'd find it interesting to hear more.

Knut


Is must be difficult because that's why they went to split shims on the V8 so you don't have to remove the pushing to make alignment/toe changes. I seem to remember reading something about the turbo's being in the way.

On another topic, several "experts" have advised strongly against a full set of poly bushings for the Esprit. Something about the chassis not liking it.
 

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The change to split shims for toe adjustment was to avoid taking off the heat shields.

I'm pretty sure that when I did the bushes on mine (4 cylinder) I dropped the one of the arms out from the chassis because there was just enough room and thought to myself "now why didn't I just do that on the other side"!

I don't know if the tapping plate will stay in place if both of the M8 bolts are removed.
 

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as far as the poly bushing being bad for the esprit......doesn't lotus offer an entire rear suspension poly bushing replacement set for the Esprit? Why would they engineer a set of poly bushes for these cars if they aren't an upgrade from the stock rubbers?
 

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The original OEM Esprit bushings for the rear were junk and deteroriated in about 10K miles. PUK in Germany was the first to provide poly replacements which had about the same Shore A hardness. I replaced all my bushings front and rear with PUK bushings. The bushingas are loaded in the tow in direction in the rear and tow out direction in the front, which is difficult on rubber bushings. While I had some dimensional problems I had to resolve with PUKs bushings I have been running them for about 6 years, 14,000 miles, and really enjoy the cars stability especially on the track. Lotus's OEM replacements were not available when I did my upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I hadn't meant for this thread to be a debate on poly vs rubber (vs whatever) for the bushes, although that's interesting discussion.

So what about the preferred approach for replacing the radius arm bushing? Can I remove it along with the entire arm in order to avoid having to access the back? Any other slick tricks? Any not-so slick tricks that gets the job done.

Knut
 

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To answer one of your questions, the captive nut plate will fall out when you remove the two retaining bolts. It's just a u-shaped plate with two rivnuts attached, but it is not itself attached to the frame. Be sure to use a good threadlocker on those bolts when you reassemble things.
 

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I'm getting ready to replace this bushing on my car. How did you go about replacing that one. The thread ran off on tangent and I don't see the solution.
 

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Just about to do this on my 4 cylinder car, Will replace with the Lotac polybush on the radius arms.
I will take it all off as I have to redrill the tube inside the radius arm out to adopt the correct 12mm bolt that acompany the Lotac polybush, instead of the 7/16" bolts and tube which fit the rubber bush for the radius arms as per the old system.
I think I will undo the heat shields (left side of car), then try to loosen all related bolts there, then loosen the bolts between radius arma nd rear hub, and it that suceeds, then seperate the brake hoses. We'll see if I need to remove the rear hub, loosen the upper arm or whatever. I'll post abck what I do.
Cheers,
Redfox
 

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So, I did the following:
1/ jacked the car up both sides rear over a pit.
2/ removed both rear wheels.
3/ placed old rusty steel wheels under the sides og the car.
4/ sprayed rustloosener (now home mix of ½ atf/½ acetone - works brilliantly) on all connections that I need to work on.
5/ loosened and semitightened both ends on brake tube on each arm.
6/ removed the heat shields on left side next to tubular manifold.
7/placed a small jar under each brake tube connection and let it drip and drain.
8/ loosened outer upper rear link arm each side.
9/ loosened the through bolt on the radius arm, each side.
10/ loosened and removed the two shim-holding bolts on radius arm mounting plate, each side.
11/ loosened the two bolts beetween the rear hum and radius arm each side.
12/ pushed the bolt out of the upper rear link arms, so they remain in the hub only.
13/ removed brake pipes and lay aside.
14/ removed the nut and pushed the central bolt in the radius arm bushing a little bit out, not all the way, each side, and lifted it carefull out and away from the car.
15/ this is to avoid mixing and eventually loose any shim setup there may be, as I've jsut measured the rear toe before diing this, and it is precise.
16/ the bolt through the radius arm on the right hand side, was stuck inside the tube in the radius arm, so lubed it with acetone/atf mix, and did this a coupleof times, adn voila, it came out and no harm was done.
17/ split washers from later v8 models fit and are easier to use, check and remove/install, when doing geo in the future.

Cheers,
Redfox.
 
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