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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

So I am exploring upgrading the rear calipers on my '07 Exige S with a pair of front OEM's.

Will I need a pressure balancing/proportioning valve?

I know there are several billet brackets out on the market to adapt the bolt spacing, etc.

What do people do for an e-brake? Do folks retain the Brembo caliper just for e-brake function?
I have heard, but never seen the aluminum e-brake option.

Any feedback or links would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Henry
'07 Exige S
 

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There is a very good thread about this already if you search. Basically if you do this run one or 2 pads more aggressive in the front. I highly recommend a balance bar not a proportioning bar and going to dual masters. Depending on your aptitude and time etc you can use phils setup (easiest), pilbeam (unknown) or a tillet full pedal setup (obv a big PITA). Not having a brake booster transforms the car so I highly recommend that.

I run no ebrake, but there is a $500 or so solution with small ebrakes.
 

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I did the caliper addition a few months ago - on my street driven '06 Exige I enjoy in the mountains...

Personally I retained the stock parking park - just drained all the fluid out of the caliper before plugging it (used an old bleeder because I switched to speed bleeders). I had a problem my first few test drives because the fluid would heat up and expand enough to apply the parking brake (since it was plugged) - but i finally did get it all out!

I did not do any changes to the hydraulics - using stock master, ABS, and proportioning valve - just ran the line from the original rear to the new front calipers on the rear.

As for pads - I'm running Ferodo DS2500 from BOE on both front and rear - and from my STREET driving (and a single auto-x) - I've been happy with the setup all around. Of course, I may change my pads if I end up getting into doing track days in the future.

I followed this thread for install:
https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f91/fcr-bracket-installation-tutorial-lotus-elise-exige-211-a-392066/
 

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2007 Lotus Exige S
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I did the caliper addition a few months ago - on my street driven '06 Exige I enjoy in the mountains...

Personally I retained the stock parking park - just drained all the fluid out of the caliper before plugging it (used an old bleeder because I switched to speed bleeders). I had a problem my first few test drives because the fluid would heat up and expand enough to apply the parking brake (since it was plugged) - but i finally did get it all out!

I did not do any changes to the hydraulics - using stock master, ABS, and proportioning valve - just ran the line from the original rear to the new front calipers on the rear.

As for pads - I'm running Ferodo DS2500 from BOE on both front and rear - and from my STREET driving (and a single auto-x) - I've been happy with the setup all around. Of course, I may change my pads if I end up getting into doing track days in the future.

I followed this thread for install:
https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f91/fcr-bracket-installation-tutorial-lotus-elise-exige-211-a-392066/
I'm glad I'm not the only one that had an issue with keeping the stock rear caliper as just a hand brake. I've pulled them and drained fluid again, think I got it all but not positive. I completely removed them for a track day over the weekend as I just didn't have enough time to test them at higher temps again. Any trick to making sure all the fluid is out? Mine still seemed to apply more resistance than I prefer and every time I push the pistons back in they get tight again as soon as I use the handbrake and don't seem to fully retract. Maybe that is just how the stock caliper in the rear works though.
 

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I do believe there is a mechanism within them so they will not fully retract - so that as the pads wear down, you don't have to keep pulling the brake further and further.

i ended up removing my plug and driving the car for a day or two - braking a little extra or being a little spirited to get the temp up to expand the remaining fluid then cleaning up expelled fluid from the inside of the wheel every chance I got. then replaced the plug and all has been great.
 

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as soon as I use the handbrake and don't seem to fully retract. Maybe that is just how the stock caliper in the rear works though.
Correct, that's standard operation for them. They have to be spun with a special tool (or needle-nose pliers) to fully retract.
 

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I do believe there is a mechanism within them so they will not fully retract - so that as the pads wear down, you don't have to keep pulling the brake further and further.

i ended up removing my plug and driving the car for a day or two - braking a little extra or being a little spirited to get the temp up to expand the remaining fluid then cleaning up expelled fluid from the inside of the wheel every chance I got. then replaced the plug and all has been great.
How difficult is it to add/remove the old rear caliper once all is said and done? I hate the idea of all that dead weight, but I'm moving to NC in a month and still will have to pass inspection.
 

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How difficult is it to add/remove the old rear caliper once all is said and done? I hate the idea of all that dead weight, but I'm moving to NC in a month and still will have to pass inspection.
probably the easiest thing to do on the car. Remove wheel, 2 bolts, remove cable.
 

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probably the easiest thing to do on the car. Remove wheel, 2 bolts, remove cable.
Exactly, as long as the brake line is not connected to them. The night before my last track day I removed both stock rear calipers, drained more fluid, installed them both, tested, removed them both, put wheels back on. Took less than a hour all in and most of the time was thinking about how much drag I was willing to accept.
 

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i did the modification and recommend a system to brake balance. I've tried running BOE's recommended pads front and rear and find there's still too much of a rear bias.

decided to just remove the ebrake. don't really use it anywways.
 

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Henry,

Do you find the standard brakes someway inadequate?

How?

Thx
 

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Does anyone run the rear 2 pots with smaller diameter pistons from BOE?
https://www.boefab.com/collections/elise-exige/products/ap-radial-mount-brake-calipers-cp5316-38-1mm-for-rear-radial-brake-conversion

Surprised there's no mention of them in their brake writeup. I was planning on going with a less agressive pad in the back but the feedback from @gstomp06 has me considering spending the money for the smaller diameter pistons out back.
I have that setup and am using the same pads front/rear. Had my first track day this past weekend with them. I was not pushing hard and we had a lot of traffic (not many clean laps...) but I thought the balance was fine, better than stock. I had a few laps within a couple seconds of my best time from last year and I was not even close to the brake points this setup seems to have. I will get more aggressive next time out. I’ve ridden in another car with this setup and he likes them, think he’s going on season two with this setup.
 

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I have that setup and am using the same pads front/rear. Had my first track day this past weekend with them. I was not pushing hard and we had a lot of traffic (not many clean laps...) but I thought the balance was fine, better than stock. I had a few laps within a couple seconds of my best time from last year and I was not even close to the brake points this setup seems to have. I will get more aggressive next time out. I’ve ridden in another car with this setup and he likes them, think he’s going on season two with this setup.
i'm fairly smooth but firm on the brakes, but mine tend to lock up, especially if it's a slight-moderate downhill. Per their recommendation I'm running rc8 front, rc6 rear. I might just need to experiment with different pads.
@Ls1Rx7 I'll probably go to the next upcoming trackfest at canaan again. But I haven't had issues there, I had some issues at NHMS.
 

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i'm fairly smooth but firm on the brakes, but mine tend to lock up, especially if it's a slight-moderate downhill. Per their recommendation I'm running rc8 front, rc6 rear. I might just need to experiment with different pads.

@Ls1Rx7 I'll probably go to the next upcoming trackfest at canaan again. But I haven't had issues there, I had some issues at NHMS.
Go to cobalt 2/4, or call Andie and tell him whats up and ask for his recommendation. The number on the website is the owners cellphone, best company ever.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
@glb - so I drive my car during the warmer season on the street and the braking is just fine, no issues at all. Stock caliper/rotors on all four corners with Ferrodo DS2500 pads (love them).

On the 10 track days per season I do feel that the fronts are doing a lot of double duty. And the write up on BOE's web site describing how crappy and poorly designed the sliding rear calipers
are makes me want to look for a better solution while staying well within a reasonable budget.

I am hunting for a pair of stock front calipers that I will disassemble, clean, put in new seals/pads and bolt up to the BOE radial brackets. At least that's the initial plan of action.

Best,

Henry
 

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Does anyone run the rear 2 pots with smaller diameter pistons from BOE?
https://www.boefab.com/collections/elise-exige/products/ap-radial-mount-brake-calipers-cp5316-38-1mm-for-rear-radial-brake-conversion

Surprised there's no mention of them in their brake writeup. I was planning on going with a less agressive pad in the back but the feedback from @gstomp06 has me considering spending the money for the smaller diameter pistons out back.
I have that setup and am using the same pads front/rear. Had my first track day this past weekend with them. I was not pushing hard and we had a lot of traffic (not many clean laps...) but I thought the balance was fine, better than stock. I had a few laps within a couple seconds of my best time from last year and I was not even close to the brake points this setup seems to have. I will get more aggressive next time out. I’ve ridden in another car with this setup and he likes them, think he’s going on season two with this setup.
Surprised not quoted on BOE site, but I'd think the smaller caliper weighs less? Anyone know by how much?
 

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Surprised not quoted on BOE site, but I'd think the smaller caliper weighs less? Anyone know by how much?
The PISTON is smaller, so there is likely MORE caliper and therefore would weigh more! I doubt they re engineered it for the smaller piston.
 

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i'm fairly smooth but firm on the brakes, but mine tend to lock up, especially if it's a slight-moderate downhill. Per their recommendation I'm running rc8 front, rc6 rear. I might just need to experiment with different pads.

@Ls1Rx7 I'll probably go to the next upcoming trackfest at canaan again. But I haven't had issues there, I had some issues at NHMS.
I hope I'll be there, but realistically the car won't be ready. It's still at the body shop and they're still finishing up bodywork. To get painted, put back together and then out on track in essentially 2 weeks.... just not likely.
But for sure I'll be at the rest of the Trackfest events this summer.
 
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