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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I picked up a pre-prepped Elise (edit: for SS Autocross) a few months ago. I did very well at the first few events with it and am looking forward to the coming season. However, I need to bring it in for a full alignment soon. I know the front gets 0.8 camber on both sides, but how much rear camber do people tend to run? I'm about to switch to the mondo huge new BWR front bar, so I can probably end up getting away with a little less rear camber, but we'll see. Curious where to start. Suggestions? I don't know what the current setting is.
 

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He is running SS in SCCA so shaving the arms is not allowed.

Front should be maxed out. We found at with the fronts at .6-.8 neg, the rears did not work as well beyond around -1.5. YMMV. This was with Hoosier A6 tires.
 

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He is running SS in SCCA so shaving the arms is not allowed.

Front should be maxed out. We found at with the fronts at .6-.8 neg, the rears did not work as well beyond around -1.5. YMMV. This was with Hoosier A6 tires.
Randy, the service manual quotes -2.0 to -2.7 degrees rear camber for the LSS suspension with -2.5 optimum... but of course that's for the stock A048's... was your camber setting a function of the Hoosiers, or spring rates, etc?
 

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I am working from potentially faulty memory, but I know we pulled all the shims in the rear and the car oversteered more on the Hoosiers. We concluded that the front-rear was too different based on input from someone, so we put shims back in. I don't think it was over 2.
 

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I am working from potentially faulty memory, but I know we pulled all the shims in the rear and the car oversteered more on the Hoosiers. We concluded that the front-rear was too different based on input from someone, so we put shims back in. I don't think it was over 2.
OK... my rear camber is -2.2 and I still have at least 2 shims left per side... pulling them all would probably make the camber -2.8 and that does seem a bit high (given that I'm at about -0.9 on the fronts with all the shims out except the speed sensor shim). I feel the car is slightly biased toward understeer...
 

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shave the arms 4mm and set the front @-1.8--2.0 and the rear - 2.4--2.6 toe 0 f and .125 r. carl
thats toe IN on the rear ...right?
 

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Tes, toe out would be bad. That (IMO) should also be total, as in 1/16" per side.
 

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I ran -2.25 degrees in each side in the back and that was a great spot for the car. I could have gotten all the way to -3, but that wasn't as good as -2.25. Hope that helps.

On toe in, I settled on 1/16 total toe in, 1/32 in on each side. Others ran more.
 

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I would take Randy's advice
but this is what I did
got this setting from John K LA region SS champion in an Elise.

Im set at all shims removed on the front for max camber
left the rears shims alone.
4 mm total toe in on the rear (2mm each side)
0 mm toe on the front
Lowered all the way down (track pack only) then raise or lower for corner balance.
2 clicks front and 1 on the back ( I might play with this though)
BWR front sway bar set to one back from full stiff.

I have yet to max out the front caster, which Im told helps.

I have yet to test these settings in my Exige S, but I think its a good place to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
... 4 degrees toe? You might want to check on those numbers...

With less rear camber, you can get power down better. More camber = more power oversteer but less midcorner oversteer. It's all a trade. If you look at formula 1 cars they're running crazy front camber and very little rear camber, since it's all about putting the power down. I'll probably start around 1.5 and go from there, it sounds like.
 

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I would take Randy's advice
but this is what I did
got this setting from John K LA region SS champion in an Elise.

Im set at all shims removed on the front for max camber
left the rears shims alone.
4 mm total toe in on the rear
0 mm toe on the front
Lowered all the way down (track pack only) then raise or lower for corner balance.
2 clicks front and 1 on the back ( I might play with this though)
BWR front sway bar set to one back from full stiff.

I have yet to max out the from caster, which Im told helps.

I have yet to test these settings in my Exige S, but I think its a good place to start.

That is pretty close to what we ran. I took my advice from Pat Salerno and Brian Connors.
 

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I might be mistaken but corner balancing is only legal in ASP+, and not in SS (where the stock height is changed).
 

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My bad. Ride height adjustment in track packs are allowed.
 
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