The Lotus Cars Community banner

21 - 35 of 35 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Sorry about leaving this post half-finished, I spent some time modifying my original design to improve fitment and clearances. I'll attach more detailed pictures and drawings of what I ended up using, and for all those that have asked, I'll include a link to a video of the struts in action. It won't let me upload all the pictures in one post so I'll add a second post for the remainder of them. I used coupling nuts (M8 1.25 x 25mm) to act as spacers to achieve clearance on the hinge and exhaust.

Video link:
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Here are the remainder of the pictures...
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Any chance u would make those parts for us without the tools to accomplish that?
I don't want to turn this into a 'Parts for Sale' thread. That being said, I could make the brackets and put together a kit of the parts needed (minus the gas lift struts themselves and the insulation for the left side strut) the kit would cost in the neighborhood of $60.

In addition to supplying the lift struts and insulation for one strut, you'd have to drill a properly placed hole in each of the BOE clam hinge brackets and enlarge an existing hole in the Lotus sub-frame, and possibly modify the factory exhaust insulation if it is still installed.

PM me if you're interested.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
399 Posts
🇺🇲 I decided to make this one of my fall projects. I got the struts a couple of days ago and have assembled the parts. The struts are metric and I was able to get all the fasteners at my local ACE Hardware. I got the steel plate for the bracket at LOWEs. Any-who, I cut and drilled a couple of extra sets of brackets (revised) if any one is interested!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Hi Jetblast,

I like your idea and appreciate the design and layout work. I would like to do this but:

I'm a bit concerned about the close proximity to the exhaust, as mentioned previously by others.

The strut being gas filled. If this motor mount melts down in a location farther away from the exhaust than the strut I'm concerned that the life of the strut may be very short. Once the gas in the strut is heated very high repeatedly especially in a track driven car it's going to expand perhaps much more than the design intended?
This will cause it to lead past the seals especially as the seals deteriorate over time and in the high heat this may be short.

Admittedly lots of maybes and unknowns here.

I know that the struts that are used to open the camper shell on my truck over the course of a few hot summers will loose most of the opening force.

You've used some shielding:
** Have you put a temperature probe, laser etc.. on it after getting the system hot?
** How effective is the shielding.
1255365
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
The strut on the drivers looks like its right over the catalytic converter. The normal operating temperature of a cat is 1200 to 1600 degrees F.

That is however the internal temp and interesting but irrelevant here.

The important temp is at outside surface of the O2 sensor area which is 450 to 500 degrees. I don't know how fast the temp let's say at 500 degrees drops with distance.
Anyone have laser temperature gun to check this out?

Jetblast, Do you happen to have one?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
991 Posts
Mark,
Where is the heat shield for the motor mount? Also, did this car have a rear panel delete? I have the heat shield for the motor mount and the rear panel delete. I have never melted a motor mount. Also, JetBlast has mentioned that he wraps the driver's side in heat shielding to protect the strut. Time will tell how fast it degrades.
Later,
Eldon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Hi Eldonz,

The heat shield for the motor mount is missing so I thought this was a somewhat reasonable comparison since the strut used here is much closer than the motor mount. The motor mount is not right over the O2 sensor area which is the highest temp spot and receives only radiant heat whereas the strut gets both radiant and convected heat. Just a very rough and unscientific comparison.

The rear panel delete is great for lowering temps when you are moving. When moving slowly in traffic or sitting at idle there's no air moving through. The heat will be very high and it will have an effect as soon as the air stops moving.

The heat shield used on the struts is definitely a good idea. I'd like to know how effective it is. It would be more effective if it had an air gap between the strut and the shield.

I think the best and easiest way to see what's going on is with a thermostat laser gun or a thermo camera.

Here's a video on exhaust temps. On our cars there's no shield on the cat as there is in this video so look at the very big difference between the shield temp and the cat temp.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
290 Posts
A BIG thank you to Jetblast for posting this upgrade. I just finished the installation, opening and closing the clam is now a piece of cake, Boe should make this an option when buying the clam hinge kit. 😄
1255554
1255555
1255556
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,253 Posts
This is my first time seeing this thread. Wow! What a great idea. I would definitely order a bracket kit from jetblast if I knew the long term effects of the exhaust heat. @Jetblast please keep us posted after prolonged use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
I always like to propose a solution, if I can find one, to the issues I point out so I have been looking around for something that would take care of the possible heat issue with the struts.
This is not to say that the heat shield that Jetblast and others are using is insufficient but we just don't know. I'd still like to see a temperature heat gun reading of this.

Here is something that looks very effective for this application. Its effective up to 2000 degrees and the adhesive backing is good up to 300 degrees
www.thermotec.com
adhesive-backed-heat-barrier
#13500

I think I'll use it on the bottom of the plate I'm getting to place under the inter cooler also.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
290 Posts
My exhaust is all ceramic coated and I have opened up the engine compartment at the back, so keeping my fingers crossed. It really makes a big difference to the temperature when stopped. The picture doesn't show, but I also have the heat shield in place to protect the clam.
1255558
 
21 - 35 of 35 Posts
Top