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Discussion Starter #1
Pretty sure I blew my rear diff today getting on the freeway. Engine is find, transmission seems fine, but even in neutral, clutch in, the roll and then thuds to a stop. If I try to drive it, it goes thud thud ud and shudders partway around each rotation. The car came with a factory LSD. I will have my local garage take a look, but I'm pretty certain it's the diff.

So what are my options? I'm not mated to stock (expensive). Heck, I'm not even mated to having a LSD. I don't race her anymore, so an open diff would probably work fine i think. Any and all help appreciated. crapola. :(

PS-warranty is expired, and even if it wasn't, the ProSolos I did woulda voided it anyway. So no point in going there.
 

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Wow.Jer.... I'll bet there are TONS of parts out there somewhere !
 

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Discussion Starter #4
George, how hard is it to do this work? I think I'd prefer another LSD, but, especially if it's outrageously expensive, then an open dif would get the job done. I liked my open dif just fine on the street on my first Elise. Just not sure I want to take a car that came with a LSD and T/C and make it an open diff car.

Heck, I'm not even sure it's the diff but my brain tells me that it is likely given the symptoms.

Bad day...I wonder how this happened NOW, just getting on the freeway...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
man, that would be great. The car still rolls on power, just makes a thudding sound and feel. My local garage, whom I trust, will get to the bottom of it but may not elect to try to do the repairs.

I'm getting better at this stuff everyday, but I'm not yet qualified to crack the tranny and fix it myself. :(
 

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Try raising the rear and manually turning the wheels. More likely to be a blown CV joint by your description. Don't drive it. You don't want to risk a CV coming completely apart and having a half shaft whipping around!

Kiyoshi
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Funny, Eilvfiji (Ron) on this board suggested the same thing! I will do that, and hope for the best. I was jst talking to another veteran knowledgable Elise owner who has done a lot of tranny work on his, and he said if it IS internal, I'm probably better off just getting another transmission than crack one and attempting to repair it. I'll keep my fingers crossed for a CV joint.
 

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Funny, Eilvfiji (Ron) on this board suggested the same thing! I will do that, and hope for the best. I was jst talking to another veteran knowledgable Elise owner who has done a lot of tranny work on his, and he said if it IS internal, I'm probably better off just getting another transmission than crack one and attempting to repair it. I'll keep my fingers crossed for a CV joint.
Usually if you've blown a diff you can't move the car. Things lock up or blow up! And yes, bad diff means lots of metal in ugly places, so replacing is a LOT easier (especially true for transaxles). Let's hope it's the CV or maybe even a bad wheel bearing (besides turning the wheel, try rocking it) or output bearing (at the stub axle).

Cheers,
Kiyoshi
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, Kiyoshi! It's not a wheel bearing, I'm certain, but it could be one of the other things. I'll check it out and get back. At least I have something to be optimistic about now.

The car still rolls freely until it gets to a point, then shudders but you can push it past that shudder and it makes another revolution.
 

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Good Luck with this one -

Please keep us up to date on this one.

Best Wishes ...
 

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I think its the final drive.

My friend just blew his final drive by doing a fast 1-2 upshift on his Honda.. Took us 2 hours to take it apart, clean it, replace the final drive and the mainshaft. (Thats not counting install and removal.)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Okay, I'm an idiot. What do you mean by final drive? Is that in the tranny? dumb me, sorry...
 

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You haven't mentioned whether your car's doing it whilst turning. If it is, then I vote CV joint, too. One other thing to add re the CV joint: Quite often, the joint boot is torn first and dirt gets in there and ruins the joint. Look for a tear in the boot as a preliminary indicator.

Mind you, I haven't had a rear-drive car with a bad CV joint, so I can't say for sure. But I've (and my friends) had plenty of front-drive cars' (Hondas were by far the worst) CV joints go bad and they clicked like all get-out whenever turning.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I don't know what it does turning because I was going straight and never got a chance to turn it. But a CV in the wouldn't be affected by a turn, would it? A wheel bearing would for sure.
 

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You haven't mentioned whether your car's doing it whilst turning. If it is, then I vote CV joint, too. One other thing to add re the CV joint: Quite often, the joint boot is torn first and dirt gets in there and ruins the joint. Look for a tear in the boot as a preliminary indicator.

Mind you, I haven't had a rear-drive car with a bad CV joint, so I can't say for sure. But I've (and my friends) had plenty of front-drive cars' (Hondas were by far the worst) CV joints go bad and they clicked like all get-out whenever turning.
Not the same with rear drive - this is only obvious with FWD due to the increased articulation of the joint when turning.
 

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I think its the final drive.

My friend just blew his final drive by doing a fast 1-2 upshift on his Honda.. Took us 2 hours to take it apart, clean it, replace the final drive and the mainshaft. (Thats not counting install and removal.)
he means the input shaft.this is what slides into the clutch.the trd lsd units are around 500 bucks.thats not bad for a new lsd.dont know what comes stock in these cars for a lsd.
 

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depends on what you change it out with.. if you need a box full of brass, and lsd pieces, and other stuff.. you're better off getting a new box.. to get to the final drive, ALL the gears come out.. its very labor intensive on these toyota boxes..
 

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The final drive unbolts from the LSD. Therefore the LSD does not need replacement unless it is damaged. (Highly unlikely that the LSD is damaged)

When the final drive goes, the output shaft usually goes with it..

Hopefully this info will be helpful.






















 

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If something broke in the diff then there's likely a lot of funny metal bits circulating about the rest of the gearbox. Those little micro bits of metal will lodge themselves in the soft material of the synchros and bearings. Thus the previous post about replacing the gearbox, since you'd have tear it down to replace the synchros and bears at the very least.

Again, let's hope it's a CV or output shaft bearing.

Kiyoshi
 
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