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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys. I could use some wrenching tips from folks who have done this job before. I need to replace the rear [1] motor mount on my NA S1 because it's cracked. I have heard that it can be done clam-on, but I'm having a devil's time seeing how.

I have:

  • lotus service manual
  • lift
  • floor jack
  • hand tools
  • removed the RH axle assembly (removed for CV boot failure)
I haven't dropped the exhaust y-pipe yet, but that seems to be the next required item. Before I go any further, I'm hoping that someone can confirm that this can be done from underneath and how it's been accomplished.

cheers!

donour


[1]: 2011 Lotus Evora Ins/brkt-eng mount rear (man). Engine - D132A0224J | Lotus Parts Online, Birmingham MI
 

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Yes, it can definitely be done with the clam on and from underneath the car. It helps if you can put the car up on jackstands and use your Jack to support the weight of the engine while you undo the bolts. I have done it twice on my car and it doesn’t take too much time. I do have a lift so that was easier for me than jackstands. Good luck!


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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks @Cardinal#1. If I could pick your brain a little more:

Did you have to remove the rear bank header or just the Y-pipe?
Did you have to unbolt the front mount to get enough play to get rear out?

...and of course any and all tips from those that have done this job.

Thanks again!

donour
 

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I, too, am looking at this same issue. Donour, were yopu getting a thump when you nailed the gas or abruptly lifted? This is the one item I have not yet tackled.:coffee:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
were you getting a thump when you nailed the gas or abruptly lifted?
Well, the engine has always moved more than I would like on large throttle deltas. My other car did it at 0 miles. I haven't noticed that this one is any different and figure it's the price we pay for reasonable NVH isolation. I saw that might rear bush was cracked/torn during routine inspection. I probably broke it during one of the 80-100 christmas tree launches in the 2019 pro-solo season.

I'm sequestered for quite a while, so this project is just inching along. I can take pictures of anything you might want to see.

donour
 

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I'm interested in this too. I also noticed my rear mount was cracked during the last oil change.

Probably related, I'm experiencing some rear axle hop on hard launches.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
UPDATE: turns out the 17mm bolt is best reach from the rear, via a cutout in the engine cradle.

Paging the experienced guys again: @CRG53 and @Cardinal#1.

Do you unbolt the whole rear bracket and disassemble on the bench or do you unbolt the mount part and leave angled bracket bolted to the tranny?

FIXED: I don't see how to get to the bit 17mm bolt with a wrench.

1261610
1261611
 

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Discussion Starter #9
One more question for sanity and the next guy down the line...

Once the mount is loose, has anybody gotten it out without removing the header+cat?

donour
 

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Discussion Starter #10
...well

That's not my favorite job, but it's doable clam-on with hand tools. Lots of extensions, drop lights, and swearing were employed.

I had to remove, roughly:
  • passenger rear wheel
  • passenger rear hub assembly
  • right hand axle assembly (remember to drain the transmission!)
  • diffuser
  • engine undertray
  • engine cover
  • rear sparkplug access panel
  • full muffler assembly
  • exhaust y-pipe, (but not the O2 sensors from the pipe)
Sequencing at the end was tricky and the rear engine mount bolts did NOT go back on in the reverse order of removal.

  1. remove all the bolts from the chassis-side bracket
    1. don't forget the three (3) top bolts, one is hidden directly above the bushing itself
  2. remove the big 17mm mount bolt using a 10" socket extension from trunk side
  3. slide the bracket as skyward as it will go
  4. remove the four (4) tranny-side bracket bolts
  5. wiggle everything out and down
  6. place tranny bracket on new mount and wiggle back to the hole you just made
  7. push mount all the way skyward and hold it there (or zip tie)
  8. align tranny mount bracket
    1. insert driver-sidemost bolt, but do not tighten
    2. insert top center bracket bolt, still do not tighten
    3. insert bottom bracket bolt, still dot not tighten
    4. tighten top bolt
    5. tight driver side bolt
    6. remove bottom bolt
    7. insert middle bolt and tighten
    8. reinsert bottom bolt and tighten
  9. Having fun? Release the mount and align with chassis holes
  10. Loosely insert all the motor mount chassis bolts
  11. Using a jack on the tranmission, align the tranny bracket and the motor mount bushing
    1. This is probably the most hazardous part, watch your fingers!
  12. Insert the large mount bolt when there is enough alignment that it moves freely.
  13. tighten all the bracket bolts
  14. You put antiseize on them, right?
I don't have everything back together yet, but that part is done. Hope it helps!

donour
 
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