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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello.
I attempted to open the rear hatch but only the drivers side disengages.
The passenger side will not release.
Note: Yesterday I made an ever slight adjustment on the forward end of the passenger side . It appeared slightly lower than the roof.
Bolts weren't very tight at all.
I did close the hatch and open it a couple of times after the fact and everything was fine.
- yesterday was also much more mild. Today is minus 11 C.

What to do?
Wait till it warms up a bit or perhaps loosen the 2bolts on each side of the forward hatch and try to shimmy the rear loose?
Help!!
 

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Carefull, if it latches and you can't get it open, then you have to remove the exhaust and cut the floor bolts and adhesive...

Sometimes when one side is latched, you can have a helper pull on the latch while you pull on the hatch and wiggle it to pop the other side loose.

If you are adjusting it, be very careful, grease the latches, and I would remove the spears under the hatch until you are sure it is aligned.

Or if you can reach under the other side, put vise grips on the latch, which is also helpful to put vise grips on both latches during alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How easy is it for the cable ends to break off under stress?
 

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As Travis said be very careful adjusting the rear hatch.

You also may try to move the car onto an uneven surface to create some flex in the rear. For most cars opening the hatch when the rear end is uneven gets more difficult, you might get it right to get it to open if you try different positions. And yes use a helper or wedge something into the lever. I always have a short piece of PVC pipe under the seat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Carefull, if it latches and you can't get it open, then you have to remove the exhaust and cut the floor bolts and adhesive...

Sometimes when one side is latched, you can have a helper pull on the latch while you pull on the hatch and wiggle it to pop the other side loose.

If you are adjusting it, be very careful, grease the latches, and I would remove the spears under the hatch until you are sure it is aligned.

Or if you can reach under the other side, put vise grips on the latch, which is also helpful to put vise grips on both latches during alignment.
Hi. Thanks for replying.
How would one finalize the alignment without the spears attached?
 

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Cal H
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How easy is it for the cable ends to break off under stress?
Pretty easy

Do you have a wing on the car?

if you have a wing put your arms palms up under the wing near the strut of the side that is latched, grab hold on the front edge of the wing and pull up with front to back rocking motion while your son holds the release latch in the open position. It should pop it open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes. I have a wing.
On the passenger side of the wing strut you can see that it is a bit loose and not tight like the other side. Perhaps this has happened a few times before on the same side and has made it unseated . Other side is solid. This was on my to do list!
I was thinking of idling the engine a bit to disperse some heat to the area...
Or use a tiger torch.
What if I loosen those 2 bolts per side on forward hatch?
Thanks Guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh cold. sometimes the grease in the slide of the lock is like rock at really cold temps
Hi.I don't remember but when you pull the latch all the way, do the latches release at the same time or one after another . I think it's the latter?
 

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Wingless Wonder
1988 Esprit Turbo
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How easy is it for the cable ends to break off under stress?
I had no trouble breaking a friend's cable at LOG 23... :panic: :facepalm




As Randy and Cal said, before you panic, try backing the car on a driveway apron or on ONE ramp or a 2x6 to try and "twist" the body. Often the stuck latch will release.


(See: Wings are EVIL.) :evil:

And yes, usually one latch releases before the other. Less stress on the cable ends that way.
 

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Have someone push down on the passenger side while you pull the release handle. That may be enough to get it to release. One trick is to remove the rear license plate and cut a hole behind it (that you can repair later) so you can access the latches. It is possible the cable to the passenger latch stretched or broke. When you pull the release handle it pulls the cable to the left side latch which unlatches first and then as you pull further you pull the cable that goes from the left side to the right side releasing the right side latch. At least that is how it is supposed to operate. For whatever reason the right side is not unlatching.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hmmm. Do I really need the rear hatch.
Been through an awful long time frame with stress.
My psychologist says - remove anything that gives you stress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You need the hatch operational - it's the only access to the engine.
Hi SLEEK GT.
It was only a bit of dry humor.

Anyway. Wouldn't a Jack-bottle be better at twisting the body a tad rather than driving over different heights ?
 

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Wingless Wonder
1988 Esprit Turbo
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Hi SLEEK GT.
It was only a bit of dry humor.

Anyway. Wouldn't a Jack-bottle be better at twisting the body a tad rather than driving over different heights ?
More dry humor:


If the hatch were the only access to the engine, then why does the oil still drip on the ground with the hatch stuck??????

:huh:

:D


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Hey, try the bottle jack. Heat up the garage (and the stuck latch, with a hair dryer). Then try it again (with someone gently pushing and lifting the hatch glass or wing).

It can't be THAT out of kilter if it worked a couple times after you tightened the hinge bolt.

Report back....
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I warmed up the car, wedged the -hatch pull -to open
and jacked the rear passenger side of the car.

TA-DA!

Now to get it back to alignment.
I see how the cable routes and attaches.
Having the cable pulled opens up both clamps all the way.
Have to work on aligning the spear.
I'll paint the head with layout fluid and see where it rubbing bad on the catch.
Thanks for the help.
 

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Wingless Wonder
1988 Esprit Turbo
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6,427 Posts
Have to work on aligning the spear.
I'll paint the head with layout fluid and see where it rubbing bad on the catch.
If the hatch position was disturbed, you really should work at aligning that, not the "spear".

The fiberglass around my spears is kinda cracked so I am loath to disturb them.

TIP: It's a lot easier to align the hatch with the lift supports disconnected. They will fight you all the way, trying to move the hatch to the wrong position.

Oh, and you also may want to remove the trunk floor bolts before you begin, "just in case". (<--- That's a whole 'nuther can 'o worms if the jack-nuts that the bolts screw into spin...)

:popcorn:

++++++

Didn't take you long to get involved with your new Mistress. :p Keep her Happy!
 
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