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Rear Hatch won't disengage on passenger side.

2K views 25 replies 8 participants last post by  mpesik 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello.
I attempted to open the rear hatch but only the drivers side disengages.
The passenger side will not release.
Note: Yesterday I made an ever slight adjustment on the forward end of the passenger side . It appeared slightly lower than the roof.
Bolts weren't very tight at all.
I did close the hatch and open it a couple of times after the fact and everything was fine.
- yesterday was also much more mild. Today is minus 11 C.

What to do?
Wait till it warms up a bit or perhaps loosen the 2bolts on each side of the forward hatch and try to shimmy the rear loose?
Help!!
 
#2 ·
Carefull, if it latches and you can't get it open, then you have to remove the exhaust and cut the floor bolts and adhesive...

Sometimes when one side is latched, you can have a helper pull on the latch while you pull on the hatch and wiggle it to pop the other side loose.

If you are adjusting it, be very careful, grease the latches, and I would remove the spears under the hatch until you are sure it is aligned.

Or if you can reach under the other side, put vise grips on the latch, which is also helpful to put vise grips on both latches during alignment.
 
#6 ·
Pretty easy

Do you have a wing on the car?

if you have a wing put your arms palms up under the wing near the strut of the side that is latched, grab hold on the front edge of the wing and pull up with front to back rocking motion while your son holds the release latch in the open position. It should pop it open.
 
#4 ·
As Travis said be very careful adjusting the rear hatch.

You also may try to move the car onto an uneven surface to create some flex in the rear. For most cars opening the hatch when the rear end is uneven gets more difficult, you might get it right to get it to open if you try different positions. And yes use a helper or wedge something into the lever. I always have a short piece of PVC pipe under the seat.
 
#9 ·
Hi.I don't remember but when you pull the latch all the way, do the latches release at the same time or one after another . I think it's the latter?
 
#8 ·
Yes. I have a wing.
On the passenger side of the wing strut you can see that it is a bit loose and not tight like the other side. Perhaps this has happened a few times before on the same side and has made it unseated . Other side is solid. This was on my to do list!
I was thinking of idling the engine a bit to disperse some heat to the area...
Or use a tiger torch.
What if I loosen those 2 bolts per side on forward hatch?
Thanks Guys.
 
#13 ·
Have someone push down on the passenger side while you pull the release handle. That may be enough to get it to release. One trick is to remove the rear license plate and cut a hole behind it (that you can repair later) so you can access the latches. It is possible the cable to the passenger latch stretched or broke. When you pull the release handle it pulls the cable to the left side latch which unlatches first and then as you pull further you pull the cable that goes from the left side to the right side releasing the right side latch. At least that is how it is supposed to operate. For whatever reason the right side is not unlatching.
 
#14 ·
Hmmm. Do I really need the rear hatch.
Been through an awful long time frame with stress.
My psychologist says - remove anything that gives you stress.
 
#16 ·
Hi SLEEK GT.
It was only a bit of dry humor.

Anyway. Wouldn't a Jack-bottle be better at twisting the body a tad rather than driving over different heights ?
 
#17 · (Edited)
Hi SLEEK GT.
It was only a bit of dry humor.

Anyway. Wouldn't a Jack-bottle be better at twisting the body a tad rather than driving over different heights ?
More dry humor:


If the hatch were the only access to the engine, then why does the oil still drip on the ground with the hatch stuck??????

:huh:

:D


++++++++++++

Hey, try the bottle jack. Heat up the garage (and the stuck latch, with a hair dryer). Then try it again (with someone gently pushing and lifting the hatch glass or wing).

It can't be THAT out of kilter if it worked a couple times after you tightened the hinge bolt.

Report back....
 
#18 ·
I warmed up the car, wedged the -hatch pull -to open
and jacked the rear passenger side of the car.

TA-DA!

Now to get it back to alignment.
I see how the cable routes and attaches.
Having the cable pulled opens up both clamps all the way.
Have to work on aligning the spear.
I'll paint the head with layout fluid and see where it rubbing bad on the catch.
Thanks for the help.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Have to work on aligning the spear.
I'll paint the head with layout fluid and see where it rubbing bad on the catch.
If the hatch position was disturbed, you really should work at aligning that, not the "spear".

The fiberglass around my spears is kinda cracked so I am loath to disturb them.

TIP: It's a lot easier to align the hatch with the lift supports disconnected. They will fight you all the way, trying to move the hatch to the wrong position.

Oh, and you also may want to remove the trunk floor bolts before you begin, "just in case". (<--- That's a whole 'nuther can 'o worms if the jack-nuts that the bolts screw into spin...)

:popcorn:

++++++

Didn't take you long to get involved with your new Mistress. :p Keep her Happy!
 
#21 ·
Hi.
Question:
If the cable is working nominal and opening the latches to maximum what is the point of removing the floor ?
What else can be done with the floor removed to the spears/latches then if the head is offset enough to catch on the opened latch?
 
#22 ·
As IROX suggested, Removing the floor (or the bolts from the floor), is a contingency just in case you "go the wrong way" in your adjustments, and the latch binds.

That way, you can push/reach up from the bottom and manually pull the cable(s) to open the latches.

I'm a big believer in Murphy's Law: "Whatever can go wrong, WILL go wrong" :eek:

After my drivetrain refresh, I resisted reinstalling the trunk floor until I got the hatch bolted in and aligned correctly. :evil:
 
#23 ·
If the cable is indeed opening the latches all the way the anchor pins are catching on something. It is very common for them to not slide smoothly into the center of the latch but rub hard against the side. They need to be adjusted (fettled with) so they do NOT rub on the sides of the latches. You may just have to force the hatch up to get it open. The need to get into the trunk is if a cable breaks and does not actuate a latch (and you did not install a back-up cable).
David Teitelbaum
 
#24 ·
So yea,remove tub if cable is shot.
It's not as if you can tap the heads of the "spears" to be real eased from the latch.
Considering that this is a problem for some, wouldn't it be beneficial to radius the rear of the heads more so by at least filing and using some emery cloth?
I plan to use some putty or plastosien (sp) on top of the latch just enough to fill the divot
and lower the hatch carefully but not fully to measure deviations from the center of the latch.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Ok ok ok.
Forget about putty and any layout fluid.
I was just on the Garage again and looked at the "spears" from a rear low perspective. One can see how the male end goes into the female from looking low at the hatch line.
!!!!!! The deviation from head to clasp is about .300!!!!..towards the left!
Imagine the flex and sidereal pressure of that!
Here I am thinking a deviation of 0.030 would give on problems...no way!
The entire hatch must be shifted to the right on its aft end.
Big time.
 
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