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Hi,

Had the cup car out this weekend and it rolls like a dump truck. Anybody make a good rear roll bar kit?

Thanks,
Matt
 

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RTD2 Brace + V2 linx

I just installed the Sector 111 RTD2 Brace on my '05 Elise.

Huge difference in feel, chassis flatness (reduced roll) and response. I highly recommend it.

I also have the adjustable Lotus Sport front sway bar (yellow with 5 holes) with Sector 111 V2 Linx. Another huge improvement.

Regards,
Wayne
 

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Mr. Miller. Come down to Stradale and talk to me. I have had a lot of success with the cars over here.

T.J. Waszak
 

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I just installed the Sector 111 RTD2 Brace on my '05 Elise.

Huge difference in feel, chassis flatness (reduced roll) and response. I highly recommend it..
Are you saying that reducing the flex from the factory inner rod ends improved roll? I don't get that. Maybe you made other changes at the same time?
 

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I tend to like the adjustable Black Watch Racing bar on the front, you can make changes to match the rest of your setup. The cars do not need (or like) rear sway bars. You might get away with a rear sway bar, but then, LSD would be an absolute requisite.
 

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Are you saying that reducing the flex from the factory inner rod ends improved roll? I don't get that. Maybe you made other changes at the same time?
The RTD brace kit replaces both the inner and outer rod ends. The outer ends are the Nitron Outboard SS90 kit. Also there is a full-width tube that runs across the rear sub-frame.

All this results in a stiffened rear with different load transfer points than the original setup.

Regards,
Wayne
 

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The RTD brace kit replaces both the inner and outer rod ends. The outer ends are the Nitron Outboard SS90 kit. Also there is a full-width tube that runs across the rear sub-frame.

All this results in a stiffened rear with different load transfer points than the original setup.

Regards,
Wayne
Huh?

Geometry is unchanged, isn't it? Each chassis and upright hole is unchanged, right? Just stiffer components that I just don't see making the weight transfer different. I can see less toe change, but the suspension pivot points stay the same and no anti roll is added.
 

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Put in coilovers with much stiffer springs like ones offered by Nitrons and Quantum. Problem solved. You're welcome.
 

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All this results in a stiffened rear with different load transfer points than the original setup...Regards, Wayne
Sorry. Don't buy it. I know how it mounts. I have one. Its function is to prevent breakage of the cantilevered stud by supporting it in a double shear, not to promote stiffness. The only stiffness it increases is the flexure of the original ball joint mounting stud. It is not likely that you can actually feel the .001 or .002 inches of movement that could occur there.
 

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I would say springs are the best first approach - I run 900 lb/in rear and can't say I get much roll.

But let me make a caveat - roll is not necessarily bad - how does he car handle and does the roll make transitions slow?
 

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I would say springs are the best first approach - I run 900 lb/in rear and can't say I get much roll.

But let me make a caveat - roll is not necessarily bad - how does he car handle and does the roll make transitions slow?
+1

...and what tires are you running? R-comps, semi-slicks, slicks?
 

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Yea, stiffer springs>> I use 525? (maybe 425)F/ 650R Nitron singles

I'm still using the stock sway bar, but the roll is much improved.

When I bought the car at the dealer they told me the Elise was designed to have unique roll characteristics. I never much liked the wallowing feel.
 

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I know it's been said 10 times now so here's #11, you need stiffer springs... the 211 was set up to run around cones with A048's and nothing stickier. It is very softly sprung stock. And you might want to think about shortening up the front splitter before the down force at 140+ mph takes it off for you...
I don't know what you plan on using your for but if it's road racing there are a few mods your going to have to perform to get a good performing package.
 
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