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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the middle of replacing the pads and rotors on my Exige, and I seem to have run into a bit of an issue. The previous owner installed a wheel stud kit on the car, which appears to make it impossible to get the rear rotor or caliper off while they're installed. The fronts were no problem since the caliper is held on with the two bolts, but in the back the single bolt/pin setup is the issue. with the top bolt removed and the caliper rotated as far out of the way as possible, the rotor can't be angled to clear the caliper because of the studs. Also with the rotor in place, the caliper can't slide far enough off the bottom pin to be removed.

Any ideas? Does anyone else have this setup and maybe I'm missing something? Does anyone with a wheel stud kit know if they can be easily removed? Are they press fit into the rear hub? Any help would be appreciated.
1274751


This is showing the closest I can get to angling the rotor clear of the studs, and as you can see I'm not very close.
 

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Am I missing something? Why don't you unscrew the studs first? The hole should fit an allen key.
 

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I'm in the middle of replacing the pads and rotors on my Exige, and I seem to have run into a bit of an issue. The previous owner installed a wheel stud kit on the car, which appears to make it impossible to get the rear rotor or caliper off while they're installed. The fronts were no problem since the caliper is held on with the two bolts, but in the back the single bolt/pin setup is the issue. with the top bolt removed and the caliper rotated as far out of the way as possible, the rotor can't be angled to clear the caliper because of the studs. Also with the rotor in place, the caliper can't slide far enough off the bottom pin to be removed.

Any ideas? Does anyone else have this setup and maybe I'm missing something? Does anyone with a wheel stud kit know if they can be easily removed? Are they press fit into the rear hub? Any help would be appreciated.
View attachment 1274751

This is showing the closest I can get to angling the rotor clear of the studs, and as you can see I'm not very close.
Did you remove BOTH the bolts that hold the caliper in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did you remove BOTH the bolts that hold the caliper in place.
Is the lower "bolt actually a bolt or just a pin the caliper can slide/ rotate on? from the back it doesn't appear to have a hex head like the upper bolt does.
 

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Is the lower "bolt actually a bolt or just a pin the caliper can slide/ rotate on? from the back it doesn't appear to have a hex head like the upper bolt does.
It's an Allen head bolt, unscrew it and the whole caliber will slide off.😀
 
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Yes, they are threaded. Spray some wd40 or penetrant oil and loosed them.

Or you can put on 2 nuts and loosen the inner nut to loosen the stud.
 

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It's an Allen head bolt, unscrew it and the whole caliber will slide off.😀
Yeah, this also, but he seems to not be very versed at brakes, so the less he takes apart the better. It's been a while but if I remember correctly, he may need to remove the handbrake cable to loosen the caliper bolt. Easier to remove the studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've done a fair share of brake jobs. I did remove the handbrake cable but didn't realize it was an allen head bolt. I'll give that a shot, thanks.
 

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I've done a fair share of brake jobs. I did remove the handbrake cable but didn't realize it was an allen head bolt. I'll give that a shot, thanks.
ok, if you do that, clean the bolts and apply new brake grease to the sliding bolts.
 

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On my Exige the lower bolt wasn’t actually an Allen head, just a pin. Even with the pin in, and rotor screws out, you can wiggle the disc enough so that the caliper slides off the lower pin - I also have the studs / lug nuts
 

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Take care when you swing the caliper back on not to tear the boot on the sliding pin as it engages the rotor. It's wicked annoying to get new ones. I believe people install the inner pad only, then when you swing the caliper back into place you can sort of tilt it towards the center of the car. Once back in place, slip in the other pad. When I do the job, I plan to leave the caliper in situ, pull the pads then the rotor and then reverse.

The Exige has the AP racing up front same as the Elise? Can't those pads be replaced without moving the caliper?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
On my Exige the lower bolt wasn’t actually an Allen head, just a pin. Even with the pin in, and rotor screws out, you can wiggle the disc enough so that the caliper slides off the lower pin - I also have the studs / lug nuts
I'm pretty sure my lower bolt is just a pin as well, I can slide the caliper back and forth on the lower pin with the top bolt out.

I know the previous owner was running fender flares, and the studs are pretty long. Maybe these are longer than the ones you have, because I don't see any way of sliding this rotor off with the studs and caliper still in place. Looks like the studs are going to have to come off.
 

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If I remember... the only hard part about removing the rear caliper is the handbrake line. It can be a pain to get it back on. Still worth it to pull the caliper IMO.

I would not remove the studs, they probably have red loctite and would be hard to remove with an allen key. You'd want to use a pair of nuts (one to turn a wrench with, and one as a stopper).

TBH though, rotating the caliper (like you've already done) is like 90% of the battle. It always sticks for me and I'm yanking it around for a few minutes on each side.
 
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