The Lotus Cars Community banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi:

I just bought a 2010 Evora and wanted to inspect the entire engine compartment. The air intake tube that is attached to the engine was off as well as the other end does not seemed to be hooked to anything. Has anyone taking the rear shell off of there car car and if so what are the steps.

Is there a good service book I can buy that might help as well?

Thank you,

Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
Hi:

I just bought a 2010 Evora and wanted to inspect the entire engine compartment. The air intake tube that is attached to the engine was off as well as the other end does not seemed to be hooked to anything. Has anyone taking the rear shell off of there car car and if so what are the steps.

Is there a good service book I can buy that might help as well?

Thank you,

Paul
I was told this is a very big job good luck and take pictures
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
597 Posts
Welcome Paul! Congratulations on your excellent taste in cars. :D

Taking the rear clam off is not a bad job if you're an experienced wrench. Helps to have a friend or two to do the actual hoisting of course, not least to keep you from accidentally dinging the paint.

If your mechanical experience is limited to things like oil changes and the like, you may want to have a good think before you tackle removing the rear bodywork. It's not hard, but it is fiddly and not a good task for those who have trouble keeping track of fasteners... and getting everything lined up again when putting it all back together is not for the impatient.

You can download the quite excellent shop and parts manuals directly from Lotus. No other manuals are available for the car, that I know of. (Except maybe for the engine...!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
689 Posts
As far as what I would do. I would use ramps or a lift and take the under panel off, lift the car and use a high powered flash light, with a mirror on a pole, (They call them that). Pad the top of the engine compartment and be careful on climbing and looking down on the engine from above. I would not take the rear clam off unless I really needed to. Maybe you need to ??? A mechanic or a dealer tech could also help you I'll bet. Like what was already stated. Big Job, Take Photos, Have Fun and share with us .... ! Best of all enjoy the Evora. !!!:UK:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thank you all for the fast relpy. I will take photos and share if I take it that far. Is this the only way to check out the engine compartment better or can I remove the rear seat and the boot to see better.

Thanks again,
Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
597 Posts
Thank you all for the fast relpy. I will take photos and share if I take it that far. Is this the only way to check out the engine compartment better or can I remove the rear seat and the boot to see better.
Paul, what are you looking for?

If it's only the air intake you're concerned about, there's no need to do anything more than open the decklid.

Familiarize yourself with the car and read the shop manual. No need to make things more difficult than they need to be. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The air intake tube on the body side is not clamped to anything, it's clamp on the engine but not clamp to the body and the only way I see to clamp it is to remove the body clam and re-clamp it to the body and after that re-install the shell and clamped it back on the engine. I would guess the last dealer that did the work messed up and for got it after the shell was put back on.

Also I'm getting a light coolent smell inside so I want to look for what I think is a very very small drip. I can't find it on my garage floor (yet) but I do smell it.

Thanks for your help,

Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
The air intake tube on the body side is not clamped to anything, it's clamp on the engine but not clamp to the body and the only way I see to clamp it is to remove the body clam and re-clamp it to the body and after that re-install the shell and clamped it back on the engine. I would guess the last dealer that did the work messed up and for got it after the shell was put back on.

Also I'm getting a light coolent smell inside so I want to look for what I think is a very very small drip. I can't find it on my garage floor (yet) but I do smell it.

Thanks for your help,

Paul
The coolent starts from the front radiator and goes down the sides and then through the motor, this is a complex system compared to most front engine cars. Below video look at the 21.45 point total 45.00

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,756 Posts
If its the "silver" flexible tube, it is not clamped. It is a heat extractor. First thing you need to do is get than damn stock airbox out and install a Radium CAI!! Then you'll have plenty of vision.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thank you, up grading the air intake will happen at a later date but the tube I am talking about is the air intake tube. It is clamped to the engine using a 4" clamp, the other end heads to the drivers side air intake body panel and also has a 4" clamp. So if it is not clamp to the body and that's what is looks like it should do, then why the clamp at the end of the tube?

What I like about the factory air intake is it brings air from outside the car directly into the engine and not hot air from inside the engine compartment. It looks like the Radium CAI uses the air from inside the engine compartment which is mix hot & cold air and if your driving slow then more hot than cold, is this right or am I not thinking right?

I do understand that the factor air cleaner does not allow the engine to get enough air and should be changed out for more HP I get that, all I'm saying is I like the fatory body scoop that directs the air right into the engine. Is there a better air filter system that re uses the factory body panel scoop as part of there system?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,756 Posts
Regardless of air temp the ~14hp is VERY noticeable. Best engineered CAI I've ever used by a long shot! That precise length is critical for our result. You've got a pretty significant inflow of outside air from the Left side mesh. Dyno results are consistently in the 300HP zone with CAI and exhaust which is VERY impressive numbers confirmed on worldwide installs. The induction sound is intoxicating.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,426 Posts
The Radium intake is not just taking pre-heated air from the engine compartment. It has a shield keeping most of that away and while driving the flow is definitely coming from the exterior of the car. Nothing to be worried about.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,709 Posts
What I like about the factory air intake is it brings air from outside the car directly into the engine and not hot air from inside the engine compartment. It looks like the Radium CAI uses the air from inside the engine compartment which is mix hot & cold air and if your driving slow then more hot than cold, is this right or am I not thinking right?
Actually it's the reverse.

The factory air intake is very short from the air box and the end doesn't fasten to anything (just has an extra fastener that probably came with the hose). There is at least 6 inches of open space between the side duct and the open end of the hose. On top of that there is gap space around the hose where hot air can travel from the engine bay into the intake. Radium addresses this in their design, which effectively seals most of the heat emitting from the engine from reaching the intake opening. I suspect some negative pressure is produced on the cool side under high throttle, pulling more air in from the side intake vent as well contributing to the enhanced sound.

I do agree with you on one crucial observation that, IMO, stems from a severe design flaw of this car--- that is, proper cooling of the engine requires the car to be traveling at high speed. Unfortunately, the side cooler fan will not turn on if the car is moving. In slow moving traffic the car will overheat, which results in a host of other problems/behaviors related to the increased engine temp.


But regarding your comment that if your car is not moving fast more heat from the engine bay will make its way back into the engine-- this is true of most cars that have the intake opening located within (or next to) the engine compartment. It just so happens the Evora is impacted by it more severely given the design flaw.

I wish there was an ECU flash fix for this behavior, so that the fan will required when the engine is above certain temperature, *regardless* of whether or not the car is in motion.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top