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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was preparing for my first oil change on my '07 Exige S (8k miles). I watched a YouTube video that cautioned to check the tie-rod end(inner) that attaches to the engine sub-frame. The guy cautioned its been known that this bolt has come loose and caused accidents. He recommended checking that it is torqued to 45 ft. lbs every time the oil is changed.

I checked mine and one side was less than 45 ft lbs. Glad I checked.

Is this really something people have experienced? Is 45 ft. lbs correct?

Thanks,
Larry
 

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A lot of people replace them. There are some stronger options out there from inokinetic and Boe.

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Note to new Elise & Exige Owners:


1. These cars have large (i.e. dangerous) blind spots. Multivex mirrors are NLA, but RLS (Really Light Stuff) offers very good tape-on replacements.


2. The horns are way too weak (quiet). There’s an inverse relationship: smaller the car, louder the horn needs to be.

Get something such as a Stebel Nautilus.

Stock: “Excuse me”


Stebel: “HONK! LOOK OUT!”

Remove the stock horn; replace with louder.

(I drive with my finger on the horn button in any traffic. Iffy situations, my headlights are on.

Stay to the left of traffic, i.e. avoid passing on the right if you can.

Stop way behind trucks, SUVs, etc. Some have blindspots >50’. )


3. The early cars came with misaimed and dim headlights. If you drive at night, convert to HIDs. While better than stock halogen bulbs are available, HIDs throw more light. Stay around 5000k.


4. Ensure your car has had the work required by the recall for oil line fittings done. You could lose an engine and/or spin in your own oil.

5. The best transmission lube I’ve found is Redline MT-90 plus a little Power Punch Extreme Gear Oil Additive. (Note that it takes two changes to get rid of the previous lube.)

a) Early cars have wobbly shift towers. Look up Stan’s Mod (bolt and spacer; http://www.billswebspace.com/ShifterReinforcement.pdf) and

Re-Enforcer long thru bolts that terminate under car and tie down the tower:
https://www.inokinetic.com/lotus/re-enforcer?category=Transmission

These (lube, mods) make a huge change in shifting.


6. As per some engine builders on these sites, wait AT LEAST 20 minutes after coolant has reached full operating temp before engaging cam switchover.

For street cars, consider removing one or both oil coolers. Some cover them.


7. Rear toe-links can loosen and break with disastrous results. You can check tq periodically, or use Nordlock washers. Best is conversion to better engineered brace, such as BOE’s InoKinetic’s for two examples.

(Mark the fasteners so to check if there is movement.)


8. While under the car with panel off, look around for hoses and wires chafing their way to failure. That’s how this was found:
https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f311/cooling-ticking-timebomb-how-your-cooling-u-tube-47232/

9. The stock radiators are prone to leaking where the end caps meet the metal part. Keep an eye on this. Most of us use single-pass all-aluminum radiators.

10. When your wheel well liner comes loose, skip the lame plastic rivet and use Well-Nuts instead.

11. Life will be better if you disable the auto-arming alarm function on the earlier cars. You won’t have to press a button to start the car. Instructions:

https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f320/remote-key-fob-immobilizer-misc-alarm-programming-70940/


12. These cars cannot be left off a Battery Tender for weeks at a time. Unless dead batteries are a particular joy of yours. Buy one right away. There are numerous threads here about which ppl use and like.


13, Some on this site are a bit obsessed with hockey pucks for lifting the car. Don’t use these. Too hard and slippery, generally, and too small a surface area. Use a piece of wood, as your hero does.

14. Visit the Uber Thread

https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f3/elise-exige-uberpost-read-everything-you-need-know-here-25131/

15. Most parts on the car are made by Toyota and others, so buying things like a/c compressors, engine parts, etc. is wildly expensive when purchased thru Lotus.
Toyota dealers, auto parts stores are way less expensive.

16. The soft high-grip tires on most of our cars lose much of that grip when temperatures drop below 50 F. I know of too many ppl who spun their cars when not remembering this. I use hi-performance all-seasons.

Note that many summer tires cannot even be stored in temps below 20 F.

-----

Plus, “How to bleed brakes”:

https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f101/how-bleed-brakes-241138/


How to Search:

For future reference: Don't use the search on this site. Simply use Google and end the search text with "site:lotustalk.com". E.g.
Transmission Fluid change what bolt site:lotustalk.com no space betw site:lotustalk.com
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks GLB.......
Great suggestions. Since this car doesn't see the track and lives a pampered life, I'll go with the Nord-Lock washers. $350 for the links plus re-alignment doesn't make sense for me. The stock setup on my car has NO washers which puts more stress on a small area. The washers will prevent loosening AND disperse the stress. I'm surprised Lotus would go with this design.

The other suggestion that jumped out is the fender rivet/plastic screw fastener. When I removed it to install a decat pipe, I thought that was sketchy. I'll pick up some well nuts.
 

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I've got some good experience with this - the nordlocks work. I was a little bit concerned when first installed because it leaves very few threads coming out of the nut. I am religious about checking them though, and can verify that I haven't had toe links back off at all with the nordlocks in place.

And smart call staying OEM. I've found there's not much reason to go aftermarket - IF you have the OEM double sheer setup. The thing I *would* do if I were you - my 07 inner joints were bare, not booted. I did proactively replace them with new OEM, and those came with boots. The good news is, I'm pretty sure you can just buy boots if you don't already have them and put them on.

bootie:
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Update - I looked for the Nord Lock washers locally and was only able to find some at my local Fastenal store.
They had 40 pairs for $63. Say what! I moved on and purchased 10 pairs of 10MM for $13 on Amazon.

I didn't want to wait 3 days to get the car back on the road so applied Lock-Tite in the meantime. That could be a long term solution, but the Nord-Locks look interesting. I'll install them on the next oil change.

Still don't know if 45 ft-lbs torque is correct, but seems reasonable. If any body knows for sure, let know.

BTW, in my original post, I pointed out my car didn't have a washer on the nut end of the tie-rod. When I applied the Lock-Tite, I noticed there is a washer welded to the subframe. You can't see it because it was coated after welding so it disappeared unless using a flash light.
 

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You're probably fine with locktite. I'm not a fan of repeatedly torquing anything. It is such an error prone way to load a bolt to start with. I prefer to paint-mark everything and watch to make sure nothing moves.

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Oh, yes 45 ft-lbs is what I use, without locktite. You will have really loaded that bolt if you wetted the threads with locktite!

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks.......

Not familiar with the term 'loading the bolt'. Does that mean over tightening because you're temporarily lubricating the threads?

The paint idea is good, I'll do that
 

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Give it a good visual, too. My bolt was torqued down fine BUT the nut on the engine side was nearly about to fall off. The threads from the bolt were against the subframe and held tight. Having the aftermarket brace makes no difference if the bolts ain't right.
 

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My understanding is that we are using torque as a proxy measure for setting a clamp load (down the axis of the bolt) but there are a lot of variables in that translation. You want to avoid stretching the bolt beyond it's elastic limit.

I usually look up charts online and if I can't find anything specific to my exact situation, I just reduce the torque by about 30% if lubricated.

Here is an example of an info page (I don't know this site to be for-sure reliable, so buyer beware). I usually check several sites to get a majority vote :) .

Metric Bolt Torque Table - CNCexpo.com
 

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... I'm not a fan of repeatedly torquing anything. It is such an error prone way to load a bolt to start with.
Please explain this comment. To my knowledge nearly everything manufactured is put together with tightness determined by torque values. Excepting cases where the bolt stretches under torque, I should be able to reliably/repeatably get the same load on a bolt by tightening it to the same torque value.
 

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I believe there was a modification to the torque spec suggesting a slightly higher torque. I have it written down, just not with me. I think it's either 50 or 60.
 

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I'd describe it as a personal preference to not repeatedly torque bolts as a way of ensuring security. Looking at a paint mark is faster.

We stretch bolts when we torque them (a good thing and intended) but the translation between torque and tension involves friction. Once a nut or bolt is in place, the friction changes (typically starting friction is higher than moving friction. If the nut does not move when test torquing, I'd say that's the same as a paint mark check? If it does move, I'm not sure what happened? Did it back out? Did the temperature or friction change? Did the torque wrench change?

Anyway, these are all just my preferences and opinions and I'd not regard them as gold-standard :)

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I believe there was a modification to the torque spec suggesting a slightly higher torque. I have it written down, just not with me. I think it's either 50 or 60.

You have your units confused. 45 ft lb is correct.
 

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@paulhastings I think you might be remembering the change in bolt grade for the plinth bolts (pinching the camber shims)? The 8.8 grade bolts were 33ftlbs and the 10.9 grade bolts are 50ftlbs.

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Risking beating this one to death, I went to the garage and looked in my trusty EMP press guide.

My bolt is 10.9 M10x1.5.

For a clamp load of 8,115lbs:

Plain: 53 ft-lb
Zinc Plating: 59 ft-lb
Phosphate and Oil: 40 ft-lb
Lubricated: 27 ft-lb

I use phosphate and oil in the front and zinc plated in the rear (the long nut and bolt).

I'm conservative on the front (don't feel like drilling out the captive nut ever).
 
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