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Discussion Starter #21
On to the head.
The valve stem seals are a little delicate, but need to be seated firmly, so I turned this installation tool from a piece of Delrin rod.

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It helps to keep everything organized. Each time I moved the head, I'd turn this box to the same orientation.

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Half the springs are in. It's important to wear eye protection when dealing with the spring locks; those little things can go flying. I think I only had to chase down one.

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The rockers and shafts are lubed and installed. The current tapered bolts don't wear out like the old ones. The ones that came out are the newer ones, and as you can see, were only lightly scored. I replaced them anyway since I had some.

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Discussion Starter #22
There is a little oil filter for the VVL control valve. Then a gasket...

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...and the VVL housing are installed. The control valve and oil pressure switch are added. The cam position sensor goes in a hole that can be seen just at the left edge of the picture.

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At the front end of the head, the VVT oil control valve is put in. There is a filter for this valve too, behind that plug just below the valve.

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Discussion Starter #23
The head must be bolted on before the cams can go in. I replaced the stock bolts with ARP head studs. Sorry, no picture, just imagine ten bolts sticking up from the block. I put the new stock head gasket down before driving in the studs; I figured that would be a lot easier than trying to thread the gasket over ten studs all at once.

The head is plopped on carefully, and the washers and nuts installed with a magnet-on-a-stick after being greased with ARP lube. Then they are torqued down; not the same bolting pattern as shown before. I made seven passes on the ten nuts. That's a lot of work, especially with a cracked rib. Owwww...

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Discussion Starter #24
The stock oil pump was disassembled and cleaned out. The pressure control valve was also taken apart. The gears looked pretty good at first, but a very close look at the lobes of the gear and the "valleys" of the rotor showed tiny particles of bearing stuff were embedded there. I swapped in a different used set.

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A new oil pump gasket is used. Note that the top stud is shorter; this is to clear the timing chain slipper which bolts to that boss just to the right.

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And the pump is bolted in.

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Discussion Starter #25
Camshafts, journals, and caps are cleaned, lubed and bolted up. Cams are placed in the #1 TDC position. Timing sprockets are bolted on.

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Crank is also set to #1 TDC and the sprocket and chain added with the coded links adjacent to timing marks. Kind of important.

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FIPG is added to a few points on the seal of the chain cover. It's bolted on using a few different fasteners with different torque values. Water pump, engine bracket, belt tensioner, and idler pulley are added. Then crank pulley and water pump pulley.

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Discussion Starter #26
I set up the valve shims just as they came out of the previous build. I half-expected that the valve clearances would have moved around a bit. After checking, clearances were fine with a little wear in some cases. Chain tensioner and valve cover were then put on.

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Discussion Starter #27
The motor is only lightly sitting on the mat; most of the weight is on the slings. The piece of steel is blocking the flywheel from turning while ARP bolts are torqued.

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The clutch disc was pretty worn, so I took the opportunity to put in a new one. I didn't use an alignment tool, just tapped it into position while eyeballing it with the cover bolts very lightly snugged up.

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The gearbox was removed from the car to mate it up to the motor.

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Discussion Starter #29
A couple of effort-savers I learned this time and thought I'd pass on:

What's happening in the first picture is, I'm taking the tension off the serpentine belt by using a jack and prop stick. It would work just as well with the clam on. Not my idea, saw it mentioned here. Sorry I can't remember who posted this technique, but it rocks.

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I couldn't scare up a neighbor to help out with the clam, so I tried this. It took some fiddling to get it set up, but I was able to drop it right on the spot. There's a big foam floor pad between the rear of the clam and the vertical post of the hoist. Not a time saver, but me and my back are getting too old to heave that thing up solo anymore.

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