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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm attempting to remove one of the turbos from my V8 --- in particular, I am trying to break free the joint between the turbo flange and the exhaust manifold. There are 4 nuts on studs at this joint.

Man, I have encountered some "frozen" fasteners in my day, but these buggers are ridiculous !!! I can't break these nuts free for the life of me. I've tried various penetrants and even hit them with the propane torch ---- no luck. No access is available with an impact wrench either.

Anyone got any advice who has struggled at this joint before ? I hate to resort to cutting them because the darn nuts cost $30 a piece and the studs are $9 each :mad:
 

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I just saw my mechanic taking this joint apart last week and it looked like it was quite difficult. He had the entire thing clamped in a vice on a bench, and still had to torch each bolt for a few minutes and use almost two feet of wrench to break them free.

They didn't even appear rusted, it's just that the turbos get red hot when operating and that metal must expand and contract like crazy.

Sorry I don't have any more advice on how to do it, but the bench approach did work with some effort.
 

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when you get to the reassembly portion of your project, remembder to use some anti-seize on those nuts/bolts. it'll make life alot easier next time you have to work on them.
 

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The only way I have ever had success undoing exhaust parts and not breaking them (or having to cut) is to get it red hot with an acetylene torch, let it cool a little and then heat it up to cherry again and loosen it while it is still red hot. You can't do that with Propane, it doesn't get hot enough. You should not need a very long wrench once you get it hot enough but you may still rip threads but it wil get it apart with the least amount of damage. You may have to remove the manifold and the turbo from the car first so you do not melt the car.
David Teitelbaum
 

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if you dont have an oxy / acet set on hand then you can get a MAP gas cartridge for your blow torch / plumbers torch which gets about 20% hotter than propane. The map gas will get the nuts cherry red after a minute or 2.
Again its lots of penetrating oil needed over a period of days.
I also have a snap on 12 mm open / ring spanner that the ring end has only 6 faces so its full contact with the nut faces and less potential slop and less potential of rounding a nut off.
Rounding a nut usually results in a fair amount of swearing and normally goes hand in hand with skinned knuckles.
Invest in a 6 faced ring spanner it makes the job a lot easier and i find i still have enough travel on the spanner get the nuts free.

Also try tightening the nut just to see if you can get that initial movement to break the nut free.
I have snapped off these studs in the past and it was all due to impatients so i would heat it let it cool heat it and keep it lubricated. If you dont need to use the car for a week then just keep on with the lubrication daily as trying to remove the broken studs could end up in a major job if you need to try and get the manifold off without removing the engine. I havent attempted that yet and i have only ever heard of one story where they raised the engine slightly in order to get some clearance to work in.

good luck

peter
 
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