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Great timing on your post

Incredible timing! - just sat down 10 min after your post looking for info on replacing the radiator (also a proRAD from Sector 111). Just got the clam off about 30 min ago. It's a '07 Exige. I will follow your instructions and let you know!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cool glad it will help someone so soon. I could never find anything with much detail to how to do it but seen many ask. So figured while I was in the process would snap some pics and do a quick write up.
Mine too is an 07 Exige
 

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Cool glad it will help someone so soon. I could never find anything with much detail to how to do it but seen many ask. So figured while I was in the process would snap some pics and do a quick write up.
Mine too is an 07 Exige
Great write up! - Did the 12 bolts topside and calling it a night. Need to pick up a 45 deg (or 30 deg) 10 mm tomorrow. Just wondering what the 8mm bolts are for? - They're not attached to anything...
 

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Great write up! - Did the 12 bolts topside and calling it a night. Need to pick up a 45 deg (or 30 deg) 10 mm tomorrow. Just wondering what the 8mm bolts are for? - They're not attached to anything...
Thanks
The 8mm bolts on topside are attached to the condenser by bolt with a locknut. You have to push the foam down to get to the nut. Might need 2 - 8mm wrenches to get it loose.
 

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Thanks
The 8mm bolts on topside are attached to the condenser by bolt with a locknut. You have to push the foam down to get to the nut. Might need 2 - 8mm wrenches to get it loose.
That's what I used, one 8mm to hold the nut and another ratcheting one on top. At the time it appeared nothing was attached when I removed them, because the condenser tab below it is very thin...
 

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That's what I used, one 8mm to hold the nut and another ratcheting one on top. At the time it appeared nothing was attached when I removed them, because the condenser tab below it is very thin...
Yea its like you think you got everything and then the radiator won't budge. :confused: I actually did the opposite removed the bolts below and missed the 4 8mm on top. Then after that it was the foam holding it in. It seemed futile at times.
 

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Yea its like you think you got everything and then the radiator won't budge. :confused: I actually did the opposite removed the bolts below and missed the 4 8mm on top. Then after that it was the foam holding it in. It seemed futile at times.
Speaking of the foam, the radiator is out and the strip of foam at the bottom (that covers the two bolts) did not fair well in the removal process. It's in four or five pieces. Wondering if I should just tuck the pieces back in the best I can with the new radiator or do they need to be more secure, like use some type of spray adhesive? Don't know how critical the bottom piece is to have in place.

Just going through a dry run with the proRAD, looks like I might just make it over the rear bottom studs without having to slot it, but thats without the foam in place :eek:
 

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Speaking of the foam, the radiator is out and the strip of foam at the bottom (that covers the two bolts) did not fair well in the removal process. It's in four or five pieces. Wondering if I should just tuck the pieces back in the best I can with the new radiator or do they need to be more secure, like use some type of spray adhesive? Don't know how critical the bottom piece is to have in place.

Just going through a dry run with the proRAD, looks like I might just make it over the rear bottom studs without having to slot it, but thats without the foam in place :eek:
Interesting, my bottom piece wasn't really stuck like the sides just free floating. It didn't' even come out. I just left it in there and slide the new radiator in place. Maybe you can stop at your local hardware or auto store and get a new piece. I would think you want it just for vibration purposes.
 

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Interesting, my bottom piece wasn't really stuck like the sides just free floating. It didn't' even come out. I just left it in there and slide the new radiator in place. Maybe you can stop at your local hardware or auto store and get a new piece. I would think you want it just for vibration purposes.
My bottom foam was defiantly glued. You can see from the pic that pieces are still stuck to the old radiator. I called around and couldn't find anything. I'll just reassemble it the best I can and use a little spray adhesive.



BTW, I was sorely mistaken on trying to clear the rear condenser studs. I slotted it and dropped in like a charm...

Well, the proRAD is in and gone through one bleeding cycle. Thanks again for posting your instructions. They made the job easy! :bow:

Now I'm just still trying to get all the air out and checking for leaks. I would really like to drive it a few miles and slosh the system around. Aside from the technical reasons (no headlights, turn signals, et..) is there any mechanical reason the car can not be driven without the clam? Sure would like to 'flush' out any problems before I button her back up....
 

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My bottom foam was defiantly glued. You can see from the pic that pieces are still stuck to the old radiator. I called around and couldn't find anything. I'll just reassemble it the best I can and use a little spray adhesive.

BTW, I was sorely mistaken on trying to clear the rear condenser studs. I slotted it and dropped in like a charm...

Well, the proRAD is in and gone through one bleeding cycle. Thanks again for posting your instructions. They made the job easy! :bow:

Now I'm just still trying to get all the air out and checking for leaks. I would really like to drive it a few miles and slosh the system around. Aside from the technical reasons (no headlights, turn signals, et..) is there any mechanical reason the car can not be driven without the clam? Sure would like to 'flush' out any problems before I button her back up....
Yea getting the prorad over the studs is near impossible this way. Glad the write up helped. Hope the moderators can put this in as a sticky for others. As part of my flush I found if you can tilt the cars front and rear up and down, this helps to get the coolant to flow and the air bubbles to clear. I have a lift and was able to raise the rear then run the car for a few minutes then raise the front and ran it again. I think i got most if not all the bubbles out, but a drive will ultimately confirm this.
 

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Yea getting the prorad over the studs is near impossible this way...
I must be a complete idiot, because I can see absolutely NO WAY to get the old radiator up and over the studs at the bottom (front of the car) of the condenser.

I have the car torn apart in the garage, new radiator in hand, and I'm stuck.

If you need to slot the new radiator mounting holes to get them over the studs, how did you get the old radiator over up and over the studs to get it out? There seems to be no clearance without removing the shroud, which means removing the oil lines and a/c lines.

:(
 

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I must be a complete idiot, because I can see absolutely NO WAY to get the old radiator up and over the studs at the bottom (front of the car) of the condenser.

I have the car torn apart in the garage, new radiator in hand, and I'm stuck.

If you need to slot the new radiator mounting holes to get them over the studs, how did you get the old radiator over up and over the studs to get it out? There seems to be no clearance without removing the shroud, which means removing the oil lines and a/c lines.

:(
If i remember correctly i just bent the radiator hole is till it either snapped and created a slot or bent it enough to get it over the stud. Just grabbed it with needle nose pliers and kept twisting back and forth till it broke.

Hope that helps
 

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If i remember correctly i just bent the radiator hole is till it either snapped and created a slot or bent it enough to get it over the stud. Just grabbed it with needle nose pliers and kept twisting back and forth till it broke.

Hope that helps
OMG...that makes perfect sense. :clap:

I'm too busy trying to "finesse" the damned thing out and all I needed to do was just tear the existing aluminum flange free.

Too much surgeon, not enough MacGyver. :rolleyes:
 

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OMG...that makes perfect sense. :clap:

I'm too busy trying to "finesse" the damned thing out and all I needed to do was just tear the existing aluminum flange free.

Too much surgeon, not enough MacGyver. :rolleyes:
Yea figure the old one is going in the trash who cares if you tear it apart. Glad the helped out.
 

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This was really helpful. Thought I should add a tip:
The passenger side 10mm bolt the holds the front of the radiator and AC condenser together is a real kick in the balls to use a wrench on. Trick is to pop the 2 bolts holding the passenger side oil cooler off. Then lift the cooling shroud up and shove a towel in the crack.
 

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I just survived this battle last night after I smelled the suspicious odor of coolant from the front clam. Radiator end tank had a very small leak. In with the ProRad!

The front two 10mm nuts that hold the radiator down to the condenser were unmovable on my '05 Elise. PB plaster soaking and other creative tricks didn't cut it. Terribly seized in rust so much that my flexible 10mm gear wrench couldn't even grip the edges of the nuts:mad:

Summon the air tools :)

I ended up carefully slicing off the small black bracket with a 2" cutoff wheel. With the two brackets that secure the radiator to the radiator shrouding in front and all the bolts securing it in the rear, the ProRad won't be moving at all. Now to get my wife to help me put the front clam back on!
 
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