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Thanks for the heads up. My wife helped me take it off and I plan on having her help me put it back on. I'm going to have to protect that area of the windshield with foam or tons of shop rags while we put the front clam back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Shane,

You might want to read through this thread http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f3/car-broke-dealer-during-recall-service-126338/ before reinstalling your clam. Moral of story is to protect your windshield.

Bob L
Its interesting to think the clam broke the window. I have taken my front clam off a few times now, once for the radiator as I wrote this DIY. I have put on the clam alone and never had any problems. After reading how the dealer was trying to hide the broken lights I wonder if they just dropped or hit the windshield with a tool and blamed it on the clam. Its not like the clam is all that heavy.
 

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Either way, the lesson here is to be careful around our cars:) I have both my clams off my car right now and whenever I'm near them I walk around them like they are worth a million dollars.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Either way, the lesson here is to be careful around our cars:) I have both my clams off my car right now and whenever I'm near them I walk around them like they are worth a million dollars.
Very true. I am very careful as well. Take my time when working on it.
 

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Shane,

You might want to read through this thread http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f3/car-broke-dealer-during-recall-service-126338/ before reinstalling your clam. Moral of story is to protect your windshield.

Bob L
I had read that before doing mine (I finished a month ago....took my time, started in december). I was super careful positioning the clam. I looked at it really carefully and have no idea how anyone could break the window unless they dropped some tool on the windshield.
 

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My wife and I put the front clam back on after I made sure the new radiator wasn't leaking and also purged of air. I bought a Robinair coolant air lift tool for my garage and tried it for the first time on the Elise. Filled up the entire cooling system in less that a few minutes with no trapped air. I'm looking forward to using it on the daily drivers!

I have to say people who put the front clam on by themselves are either really experienced or slightly crazy. We got it on and it fits like it did before we took it off but holy moly it took quite a bit of massaging to get it all into place!
 

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Its interesting to think the clam broke the window. I have taken my front clam off a few times now, once for the radiator as I wrote this DIY. I have put on the clam alone and never had any problems. After reading how the dealer was trying to hide the broken lights I wonder if they just dropped or hit the windshield with a tool and blamed it on the clam. Its not like the clam is all that heavy.
After taking my front clam off for the first time last night, I can see how you could conceivably hit the two brackets on each side of the windshield (the ones with the shims underneath them) on the windshield and break it if you weren't careful.

A piece of foam on the windshield or something padding/wrapping the brackets might be a good idea upon reinstall.
 

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Another tip. I re-installed the 4 8mm at the rear of the radiator with bolt up from the bottom. The foam is hard to get around, but it holds it up to keep it easy to get the little 8mm nuts back on.
 

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Revival of an old thread. In the process of replacing the radiator. A couple questions.

One, I assume the the radiator slots are for the the two studs at the condensor at the front of the car. It was a test to get the oem radiator over those studs so it would make sense this are the two slots needed for install.

Two, the oem foam did pretty well. It came apart a little when scraping off the radiator but also looks partially attached to the shroud so I left in place. It sounds like the ProAlloy is slightly narrower requiring the sides to be filled. I was thinking of attaching foam to the existing foam. Is there temperature ratings for foam. Since it will be touching the radiator I want to be sure it's not an issue. I found some at HD but not exact sizing but can make it work.
 

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I finally completed the radiator and hose replacement. Temperatures are good and and header tank is still settling in with its level. One thing that is a little puzzling is a very slight weep of coolant at the bottom of the sway bar mount. Above the mount is the radiator hose connection. However, no signs of leak from above. I suspect this is spillage from removing the old radiator hoses and draining the system. There was definitely some spillage. How long will the coolant take to dry up? I went for a 100 mile test drive on Monday and the weep showed up again last night. I cannot see a path for the coolant so must be spillage working it's way from the mounts. The mounts are two pieces of aluminum bolted to the tub with the sway bar in between. There really is no source for coolant to get there unless the hoses are leaking and there is no sign of a leak from above.
 

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Ok guys I have all the 10mm and 8mm bolts out as well as removed the nuts from the two studs up front. I'm stuck on the next step. I can't lift the back side of the radiator without hitting these tabs that are part of the shroud. Up front, there isn't enough clearance to push the radiator up off the studs without also hitting the shroud. Am I supposed to unbolt the shroud for this operation?
1257295
1257296
 

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I just did this last month. You don’t need to remove the shroud, just need to carefully push hard against the shroud with the radiator and lift over the tabs at the other end (the rubber hoses and clamps need to be off). It’s a very tight fit but you can get it out. If you still can’t remove it, there is always an option of bending the metal on the radiator down (which a Lotus mechanic told me he does).
 

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Thanks! I pulled the metal clips and it was pretty easy to get the back side of the radiator rotated up with minimal force on the shroud. I did end up removing the 3 screws at the front of the shroud to give me a little more room to push the radiator up at the front. That worked for one of the studs. I still didn't have enough room to get the other side out so I just reached in with a side cutter and notched the radiator around the stud and slid it out.
 
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