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2005 Lotus Elise, Arctic Silver
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So after owning my Elise for a little under two months, I hit my first issue. I took my car to a place that does hand washes, after it sat for only a week. Drove it down there just fine, they pulled it in just fine, pulled it to the spot they dry the cars at... then it wouldn't start.

After messing with it for a half hour or so at the carwash, I couldn't get it started, and had it towed to my house because I needed to start a 5 hour drive to a friend's wedding. (And was very disappointed I couldn't show off my Lotus!)

Got back last night, and here's what I've found:
  • When turning the key, I don't hear the fuel pump kick in.
  • With the key on, the immobilizer/shift light blinks (which I don't recall if it blinked previously), and all the dash lights light up like normal, then turn off leaving only the check engine, battery, and oil lights on.
    • The immobilizer has been disconnected, and I don't even carry the FOB in most cases.
    • After a minute, the check engine light blinks 10 times, then goes back to steady on.
  • I hear a very small click when i turn the key to on, then a very small click when I turn the key off.
  • The start button does nothing when pushed. No click, no whir, nothing.
Here's the very short list of what I've tried so far:
  • Pushed the inertia switch in the engine bay (unless you need to hold it for a period of time?)
  • Took the battery in and had it confirmed as a good battery.
My next thought initially was it might be the start button, but if the fuel pump isn't even kicking on, I'm not so sure. Anyone have any thoughts? Every thread I've found so far seems like it's a battery/starter/immobilizer issue, and that doesn't seem like the case here.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[EDIT] Turns out the issue was the immobilizer. I thought the previous owner had probably jumped it, but turns out they deactivated it electronically. Somehow it was turned back on. I jumped the immobilizer (in this thread), and have no issues now!
 

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Did you check all the fuses? I had problem once after heavy ran and found bad fuse under access panel. There are some in engine bay too.
 

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The Blue Meanie - 2006 Polar Blue Elise & Bernice - 2010 Chilli Red Mini Cooper S
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Awww man! Sorry to hear it buddy!
 
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Check R1 your fuel pump fuse. Have you checked with obd reader for codes yet?
 
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2005 Lotus Elise, Arctic Silver
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did you check all the fuses? I had problem once after heavy ran and found bad fuse under access panel. There are some in engine bay too.
Thanks, will check that first when I get home.

Check R1 your fuel pump fuse. Have you checked with obd reader for codes yet?
I need to pick up an OBD reader... my daily driver that I've owned for 14 years is a '90 CRX that doesn't have OBD. :ROFLMAO:
 

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The Blue Meanie - 2006 Polar Blue Elise & Bernice - 2010 Chilli Red Mini Cooper S
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Thanks, will check that first when I get home.



I need to pick up an OBD reader... my daily driver that I've owned for 14 years is a '90 CRX that doesn't have OBD. :ROFLMAO:
And brother? You so got your money out of it! I remember seeing it at the Wisconsin drive......
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
And brother? You so got your money out of it! I remember seeing it at the Wisconsin drive......
Definitely used, and a bit abused:ROFLMAO:. My goal with it was always to get to 300k miles, and after that goal I had to get my "completely irrational" car. 100% worth it, even with this issue!
 

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The Blue Meanie - 2006 Polar Blue Elise & Bernice - 2010 Chilli Red Mini Cooper S
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Glad youre as happy with it as I am with mine. Look forward to meeting up again!
 

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Was the immobilizer disabled by just jumper wires? If so, they seem to have come loose. The red light will blink either way though until you remove the alarm module which is different from the immobilizer. I much prefer doing it correctly by programming the option to disable the immobilizer; this way you get a useful shift lift and no annoying blink.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Was the immobilizer disabled by just jumper wires? If so, they seem to have come loose. The red light will blink either way though until you remove the alarm module which is different from the immobilizer. I much prefer doing it correctly by programming the option to disable the immobilizer; this way you get a useful shift lift and no annoying blink.
I'm not sure how it was disabled, but I assume both the immobilizer and alarm were disabled because the light hasn't blinked during normal driving previously, and it has worked as a shift light for me. I was trying to mess with the FOB as well, but I'll need to look into that more.
 

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I'm not sure how it was disabled, but I assume both the immobilizer and alarm were disabled because the light hasn't blinked during normal driving previously, and it has worked as a shift light for me. I was trying to mess with the FOB as well, but I'll need to look into that more.
Are you saying you messed with the fob first then had the issue, or the other way around? If it was disabled by the optional programming, then pressing the fob turns the immobilizer back on (like stock). If it was jumped and the alarm removed, the fob is a paperweight.

I'd definitely take a look at the immobilizer though. It is easy enough to get to.
 

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Have you tried resynching your fob?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Was the immobilizer disabled by just jumper wires? If so, they seem to have come loose. The red light will blink either way though until you remove the alarm module which is different from the immobilizer. I much prefer doing it correctly by programming the option to disable the immobilizer; this way you get a useful shift lift and no annoying blink.
Could you clarify something for me? If the immobilizer and alarm are both disabled, does the immobilizer light flash when you have the key in the on position, prior to starting the car? I can't recall what lights were on/blinked before this issue.
 

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Thanks, will check that first when I get home.



I need to pick up an OBD reader... my daily driver that I've owned for 14 years is a '90 CRX that doesn't have OBD. :ROFLMAO:
Cool someone else that came from a crx. Had mine for almost 25 years also
Wheel Tire Vehicle Water Land vehicle


as for your problem, the easiest thing is to start with fuses as said above, but if you dont hear the fuel pump(and usually do) and also your starter wont turn over, I would expect your imobilizer more. if you have a test light/multimeter, check for power at the starter on the big wire. If you have it there, put the car in neutral and jump power from the main starter wire to the solonoid on the starter. if it turns over then I would go to the imobilizer and see if you can jump the starter wires for both the fuel pump and starter from the plug, and try to start again. Im not sure how they bypassed it for you but if it is a physical wiring connection they made it may have come undone.
 

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Could you clarify something for me? If the immobilizer and alarm are both disabled, does the immobilizer light flash when you have the key in the on position, prior to starting the car? I can't recall what lights were on/blinked before this issue.
My understanding is the light won't blink in that case, BUT take that statement lightly. I disabled mine by programming, so I don't have firsthand experience with everything removed. That being said, I do think my statement is correct.
 

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I tied the wires at 1/6, 5/12 together with enough wire left at connector that bullet connectors could be used to return to stock and then replugged the connector. That way there's still visual deterrent with blinking light and I just hit the fob button to turn off but not needed to start car.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update: I went through and checked all my fuses, and all of them came back as good. So I went to the next step and went to check the immobilizer, with much swearing to get the passenger seat out.

Looks like they must have turned off the immobilizer with a program, because the connector was still... connected. And both FOBs that I have do nothing when I press either button.

So I'm assuming somehow the immobilizer was reactivated, and I need to reprogram my FOBs?
-----
Update to the update: I realized I didn't click post. I just spent an hour trying to reprogram the FOBs per this thread and I got nothing. I even double checked that the Serial number on the alarm system matches the serial number on my PIN card. The one thing the confuses the **** out of me, is every time I turn the key to "ON" for the next number, there's a quick double flash that I'm not sure if it's supposed to count as "zero" or "one". I've tried it for both, but I still can't figure out ****. Is there a video that someone has of reprogramming the FOB?

Gin is my only friend tonight...
 

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Fresh batteries in fob right?

google> program elise fob

 

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Did you do the simplest thing...such as attempt to resync your fob? If you have a low vehicle battery sometimes the alarm and fob will go out of sync. Been there done that. Try this. Sit in the car, hold both bottoms of your fob down. You will see the small LED on the fob start to flash rapidly. Release both buttons when you see the LED go solid, hit the big button...parking lights should flash and should work again. You may have to do this a few times.
 
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