The Lotus Cars Community banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased a 2011 Elise with a GRP shift gate, which I have removed. I am trying to restore the reverse lockout function. I have the maintenance manual, and even a spare shifter, for my 2005 Elise, but the 2011 shifter looks nothing like the 2005. I understand how the ShiftR111 and the 2005 reverse lockout work, but have no idea how the 2011 is supposed to work, even after puzzling with it a bit. Not that surprising given that those parts were removed.

Here are some photos of what I'm working with:

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design

Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Electrical wiring Hood
Gas Auto part Electric blue Engineering Machine
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Hood Gas


And this shows the spare parts that I have to restore the reverse lockout function (I may well have some missing parts)

Liquid Fluid Font Auto part Cylinder
 

·
Less is Better
Joined
·
3,328 Posts
You are missing the parts that lockout reverse. There's a stopper that rides along the plastic arch on the left side of the mechanism. The stopper raises up when you pull up the collar at the shift knob and allows the lever to go over to reverse.
 

·
Less is Better
Joined
·
3,328 Posts
The blue ball shifter mechanism functions similarly to the Dolomiti shifter demonstrated here.


It also looks like it's full of what appears to be metal shavings which won't be good for the ball/socket or other moving parts. I'd clean it out and regrease.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@2011 chrome orange Thanks!. It turns out that I do have that "missing" part that you pointed to with the red arrow, If you look closely, you will see that it is captured with zip locks to keep it out of the way. I appear to have part #7, but neither #6 nor #18. If #17 is a spring, then I have that, but it just barely does not fit inside the shaft; it is tight enough that I would not be sure how I would get it out if I tried to jam it in. I do not see how having a spring there would put pressure on #7 to keep it down. And I have no clue as to how moving #7 would affect the part pointed to by the red arrow. Some kind of linkage may be missing: I do not see that in the diagram.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Gas Automotive design
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,485 Posts
Not sure if you can glean any info from these threads with similar issue.




 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,411 Posts
The spring you have above does look like the proper spring as it has tapers on each end. But, I am more familiar with Evoras the an Elise.

Anyway, it also looks like you have #6 already attached inside the aluminum lift tube in your photo. Yours looks black instead of the blue that I've seen (on Evoras). If you want to separate them you compress the four tabs and slide the aluminum lift tube off:
Fluid Liquid Font Gas Auto part


So, #18 is a screw that attaches #6 (the black part you have in the lift tube) to an internal shaft that moves up and down with the lift tube. In this crappy photo, you can see the screw located in the blue part, as well as a portion of the internal shaft that is visible..
Wood Composite material Asphalt Gas Bumper


The bottom part of the internal shaft has the black lockout part also attached by a screw (the one I had the arrow pointed to that you say is held up with a zip tie).
Guitar accessory Musical instrument Bumper Material property Gas


If you have a zip tie holding it in place, my guess is that you are missing that screw too.

So..... when you have it all installed correctly, you lift up the aluminum lift tube which lifts part #6 since it sits on it.
Once Part# 6 lifts, it is lifting the internal rod which has the lower black lockout also attached to it.

The spring is putting tension on the internal shaft to keep it down until you use the lift tube. You overcome the spring tension to lift the tube. The spring now compresses and when you release the lift tube, it forces the internal rod back down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
@2011 chrome orange

Your description was all that I needed to get the reverse lockout working again! Thank you!

In post #7 here


@Nevsum5446 explains that it is possible to use both the reverse lockout and the shift gate, so I will give that a try before selling the gate.

I was not liking the gate, because I was having problems down shifting from 3 to 2, but this


discusses how that could be due to distortion in the shift box, so I may try fixing that before giving up on the gate
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top