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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
One of the many items I addressed on my Elise this winter was a battery relocation with a remote cutoff switch. While I feel the installation looks safe I thought I'd ask the group just so a second set of eyes can look things over.

My goal was to replace my original battery, reduce/redistribute the weight, have a remote cut-off switch inside the cabin, and to increase security.

Some details:

-Braille B14115
-Modified BOE battery bracket
-Cole Hersee sealed 12V 85A continuous duty solenoid
-->Military grade SPST switch inside cabin. Wires wrapped in corrugated tubing to avoid any wire chafing on the chassis.
-->All smaller gauge terminals crimped and shrink wrapped
-Battery terminals crimped, soldered, and ends sealed with heat shrink

The only thing I am seeing here is adding some positive terminal protectors in case I drop a wrench to avoid a spark show.

Anybody see anything else they would recommend? Clam is still off!

BTW, there is no fuel spill guard on my fuel filler because I have a Radium clam kit installed.



 

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quick disconnect charging cable?

unless you're going use the 12v port in the cabin.
 

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Have you started the car with this setup yet? I'm just wondering if your 85 amp switch has enough beef to handle the transient current.

Also, is there any lateral restraint on the battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies guys.

I have since added connections to the battery with quick disconnect plugs for use with my battery tender. Same wiring protection as the remote switch. I can access the plugs from the interior to connect my battery tender. Makes life real easy. I didn't want to fuss with trying to reach the battery though the engine compartment.

Ryan, I've started the car a few times. Fires right up and the wiring/solenoid doesn't get hot at all. I've also had the headlights on for a while doing some adjustments and everything is OK. You can't see it but the battery bracket is secured to the frame rail with a few screws. I have some rubber padding on the strap that secures the battery nice and tight.

I think something important to emphasize is that I have a modular clam kit. Part of making that process simple is not having to screw around with the battery in the trunk and fishing the cables out all the time. This was main reason I started my remote cut-off project. For the price I think it's worth the time I will save down the long road. There are those who say, "Why is your clam going to be off all the time? Is your engine that unreliable?!" The answer is "no" but for me I like the fact that I shave hours off any maintenance issue I may need to address in the future.

SirLotus, I'm not sure I understand your question either. I accomplished what I was trying to achieve. As far as every day purposes the security aspect of having a hidden switch in the car is a benefit. The switch will definitely come in handy when I'm staying overnight at a hotel during a track weekend where I can't be on the battery tender. Flip the switch and the parasitic loads can't drain the battery. Now if that's required for the B14115, I can't say. Wasn't able to find concrete evidence. Anyway, now that I have a proper cut-off, I don't have to worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey mom & dad, you're scaring the kids!

Shane,

Pic of interior cut-off switch?
Here's a pic from Terminal Supply Co.

1TL1-2
ENVIRONMENTALLY SEALED TOGGLE SWITCH
SPST OFF-ON 2-SCREW L191/MILITARY RATED



I won't shed details to the WWW where it's located, but as you can imagine, just a simple toggle that pokes through some plastic.
 

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Thanks for the replies guys.

SirLotus, I'm not sure I understand your question either. I accomplished what I was trying to achieve. As far as every day purposes the security aspect of having a hidden switch in the car is a benefit. The switch will definitely come in handy when I'm staying overnight at a hotel during a track weekend where I can't be on the battery tender. Flip the switch and the parasitic loads can't drain the battery. Now if that's required for the B14115, I can't say. Wasn't able to find concrete evidence. Anyway, now that I have a proper cut-off, I don't have to worry about it.
You originally stated "reduce/redistribute the weight", have you noticed this effect in the "seat of the pants".
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You originally stated "reduce/redistribute the weight", have you noticed this effect in the "seat of the pants".
Michael
Car is in storage right now. I'm right up in Ryan's area in metro-Detroit. We're not going to be on the road for a while :( Even then, I got the car in November, only had about three weeks of fun, and then had to put it away for the year. LIFE IN MICHIGAN:mad: Hopefully I'll be able to at least get down the road in April without going through salt puddles so I can get aligned/balanced @ V2 Motorsports.
 

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The switch will definitely come in handy when I'm staying overnight at a hotel during a track weekend where I can't be on the battery tender. Flip the switch and the parasitic loads can't drain the battery. Now if that's required for the B14115, I can't say. Wasn't able to find concrete evidence. Anyway, now that I have a proper cut-off, I don't have to worry about it.
The B14115 can handle the parasitic loads parked outside, overnight, during a track weekend. Mine has done fine, even with chillier morning temps in the Spring and Fall.

That being said, I opt for isolating the battery via a cut-off switch too. I've disabled passive arming of the immobilizer and I don't use the keyless remote (i.e. I manually lock / unlock the doors with the key).
 

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Maybe we need to lay off Mr SirLotus. I mean, he's in the alarm/electrical business. I also believe that he's right about all the time we spend on lightening our cars isn't noticeable to 80% of us. So in that respect, the money spent to buy light weight batteries, clam hinges, oil cooler relocation, light weight uprights aren't much of a benefit.

Especially when you disregard, ease of maintenance, simplified setups, better acceleration, and better cornering to name a few. I know my ass dyno isn't capable of feeling the difference.
 

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This is a common system used in light aircraft, slightly modified. I like it and agree, cover the positive on the battery and also the relay!

The only real problem I see is that they relay is going to be in the way when you supercharge the car. ;)

Edit: Frank, how do you do this? "I've disabled passive arming of the immobilizer"
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This is a common system used in light aircraft, slightly modified. I like it and agree, cover the positive on the battery and also the relay!

The only real problem I see is that they relay is going to be in the way when you supercharge the car. ;)

Edit: Frank, how do you do this? "I've disabled passive arming of the immobilizer"
Ha, my dad asked the same thing. I am staying so far away from it! This car is so much better than me and I just want to drive the heck out of the NA motor. Driving FormulaBob and Ryephile's Exige's last fall did not help :drool:
 
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