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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Last weekend I installed the Goodrich SS brake lines from Sector 111.

Product:
The lines appear to be very well made, nicer than ones I bought for other cars.

Installation:
Rears are easy, just like any car. The fronts are a bit of an adventure. The inner ends mount to the front crash structure, wayyy inside the wheel well. You get at them from the top.
1) Remove the painted "hood" access panels.
2) Then the black plastic radiator grills
3) Then the black cover below those grills.
4) You can now see the end of the brake line through a slot in the top of the black fiberglass crash box.
5) A box end wrench has just enough room to move the brake line nut
It was pretty easy once I figured out how to access the nuts. Only two notes are:
a) It is harder to access the nut on the passenger side because the A/C lines are in the wat
b) When reinstalling the black radiator grills, fit the two halves together _before_ snapping the ends into place. Much easier to get things to fit if you do it in that order.

I also refilled the brake system with ARE Super Blue fluid.

Result:
Brakes feel a little higher and firmer. Exactly what I would expect to get from SS brake lines.

Verdict:
I'd do it again.
 

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Thank you very much for this information. I am glad I did the search before posting. I also thought about accessing them thru the top at the black grill.
 

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How long did it take?
 

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I just did this job as well. My additions:

1) The stock lines are larger in diameter and are all attached with a clamp bolted to the suspension A-arm. This makes the brake line rigidly held in place at that location. The SS lines are smaller so they will slide inside the clamp. That is probably ok. But to follow the stock install, I wrapped a little duct tape around the yellow goodridge plastic thingy and put the clamp around it. I then bolted it the exact same length as the stock ones.

2) The front passenger side is a PITA! Almost impossible to get to. I ended up extending the cutout towards the windshield. I used a hack saw blade and filed the edges. Used a sharpy marker on the edges to match the black fiberglass. Can't tell the difference and looks stock. Extending the cutout in no way will adversely effect anything. Now the opening was sufficient to work the wrenchs. A 17mm wrench is much larger and needed the room, because the A/C lines blocked about half the opening. No blockage on the drivers side and was able to perform the task. Just put some paper towels under the fitting to soak up the dribbling brake fluid. Then spray some brake cleaner to clean up the brake fluid mess, then wipe with more paper towels.

3) I had trouble getting out the air in the system. Mainly the front calipers. Some one on this forum said to take off the front calipers and hold them upside down and tap on them to move the lodged air bubbles to the bleed screw side. Then re-bleed the two front calipers. I thought this was hogwash when I first heard it. But I was desperate to try any thing. I did and it helped alot. Now I got a firmer pedel close to stock.

I think it could still be better. I think driving it a bit and getting into the ABS and then re-bleed will help get a harder pedal.

4) I tried the new brake fluid GS610. I hope this stuff delivers based on all the hype I have heard about it. I used 2-16 oz. bottles, since I had to bleed a lot of fluid to get the air out. Normally I would not have used that much. A bottle cost about $40, so it better be good. I have heard people go a season with only one initial bleed. Hard to believe that. I will do more brake bleeds than that though.

My first modification is complete. I have done this job on a couple of other cars and this was by far the hardest install (the fronts). I too would do it again.
 

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Cisitalia said:
I just did this job as well. My additions:

.2) The front passenger side is a PITA! Almost impossible to get to. I ended up extending the cutout towards the windshield. I used a hack saw blade and filed the edges. .... Now the opening was sufficient to work the wrenchs. A 17mm wrench is much larger and needed the room, because the A/C lines blocked about half the opening.



I agree, the passenger side is a real be-atch. I found if I unscrewed the fuse box and moved it to one side, that it gave me a bit more room to get the appropriate wrenches in from underneath the hard plastic bracket 'thingy' i.e. from the windshield side. I also found that assembly was easier than disassembly
 

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I've had mine since Christmas and haven't installed them yet. Thanks for the thread...now I'll go get my hands dirty. Damnit I hate brake fluid!

From Jefferson::::I also refilled the brake system with ARE Super Blue fluid.
Jefferson,

Have you had experience with other brake fluids? I've used Motul on my Audi TT and it worked great with my StopTech brakes. Before I buy the fluid and change the lines I figure I should get your input (and others please).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
eliseowner2b said:
Have you had experience with other brake fluids? I've used Motul on my Audi TT and it worked great with my StopTech brakes. Before I buy the fluid and change the lines I figure I should get your input (and others please).
I'm using ATE Superblue. This weekend is my first track event, I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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I have used ATE Super Blue in my BMW M3 extensively at the track with success. My friend races a vette with it and no problems. In my Z06 at the track I am using Motul and it works ok, but I was going to try some thing different (I was not very happy with it over ATE Super blue for the higher cost of Motul).

I have in my Elise now Prospeed's GS610 maximum performance brake fluid. It appears to work fine, but I will need a few months of track experience to develpe a better opinion. FWIW, the American LeMans series of racing brake fluid of choice is GS610. Yes they are a sponsor, but many race cars will be using it to obvious success.
 

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This weekend is my first track event, I'll let you know how it goes.
Awesome! What track are your driving? What temps are you expecting? I've attended track days for 4 years with various Audi's and I must say that the 2 events I've driven at Road Atlanta since my Elise were more rewarding then the previous 8 or 9. One recommendation, run your car with very low air pressures. I'm assuming you have Yok A048's? The first event I ran with the recommended tire pressures of 26f/28r and found the wair was no where near the sidewall marks. I was taking it easy (learning the car) at the first event but picked up my pace (and confidence) at the second. I ran my tires at 23f/25r for the first session and then went to 21f/23r and felt like this was ideal. My tires have about 3K miles on them between 2 track events and some street driving and I am noticing the rear tires are more worn in the centers. I may be completely wrong here but I think that means I have been driving with too much psi right? I know Lotus did their homework on tire pressures and different tracks/temps etc vary but I hope this info helps you out and makes for a better day.

p.s. ChaseCam it!
 

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eliseowner2b,

I assume the tire pressures you refer to were cold pressures. What were your hot tire pressures, which are more important?

If you are wearing the rears in the center, yes it sounds like over inflation. Aliignment can't do that to a tire.

Brad
 

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The second event was only 42 degrees so the tires weren't exactly building up a lot of heat. I was seeing a 1 to 2 psi increase when I came in from a 30 minute session. I was hoping to get more wear out of these tires but I haven't exactly been easy on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
eliseowner2b said:
Awesome! What track are your driving? What temps are you expecting?
We are running Motor Sport Ranch, which is a racing country club in Fort Worth, TX. Ambient temperature could be anything from 40-70 (fingers crossed for higher.) It is a fairly low speed track, so I'll start with lowish pressures and see how it feels.

Wish I had a Chasecam, but I'm waiting on the PVR solution :)
 

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Thread moved from parts to brakes forum.
 
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