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Those EGTs look like they are 3/16" probes. I'm assuming for responsiveness that you went with exposed tips. How far down in to the tube did you position the tip? Also, there has always been discussion of where to mount them in the tube with respect to the exhaust port. The rule of thumb that I was taught was to be about 6" from the exhaust valve. Depending on how strong the exhaust pulses are, you can have problems with the EGTs vibrating and breaking off. My drag race customers use to go with 1/4" probes and just put the tip of the EGT in to the port. Ideally, you want to be in the center of the tube but the EGT would create to much blockage.
Later,
Eldon
 

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Discussion Starter #202
Those EGTs look like they are 3/16" probes. I'm assuming for responsiveness that you went with exposed tips. How far down in to the tube did you position the tip? Also, there has always been discussion of where to mount them in the tube with respect to the exhaust port. The rule of thumb that I was taught was to be about 6" from the exhaust valve. Depending on how strong the exhaust pulses are, you can have problems with the EGTs vibrating and breaking off. My drag race customers use to go with 1/4" probes and just put the tip of the EGT in to the port. Ideally, you want to be in the center of the tube but the EGT would create to much blockage.
As you assumed, they are exposed tip probes for response. The bodies are 0.2” diameter, so a bit larger than 3/16” and smaller than the 1/4” probes. I did try to locate them about 6” from the exhaust valves. They protrude about 3/8” into the exhaust stream.
 

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Discussion Starter #203 (Edited)
Well - with my roommate out of town (he usually helps with small AL welding jobs), I needed to get the SC radiators finished up so I can get this car on the road.

They're not professional welds, but they're not the worst considering it's been 7 years since I welded AL and didn't practice :)


These started out life as aux. coolers from Mishimoto for the 2016+ Camaro SS: Link.

Should be able to finish up all of the plumbing in the front end now.
 

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Discussion Starter #204
Front cooling setup is almost done. I used a spare set of Derale (SPAL clones) 5" fans as mock ups for the SPAL pusher fans that will arrive soon. If I seal it up nicely, they should provide ~600cfm of airflow across the center heat exchanger under the crash structure. I'll likely configure the fan control criteria to only kick on the fans below ~15mph when the side coolers won't be getting much airflow.

Here's some trimming required for the side coolers:


Laying out the cut dimensions in the floor of the crash structure:


No turning back now!


Fans from the underside:


Fans from the radiator inlet:
 

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Do you have a bleeding procedure planned for the front heat exchangers? What I did was to fill them and run the electric pump while holding the radiators in my hands and rotating them in the air so that the pump would push the air out. Clam off and exchangers uninstalled, of course. I suppose you could use a vacuum fill system as well but there was something satisfying about moving the heat exchanger about and feeling the air leave the system. With air in the system, you could hear gurgling in the system and after it was bled, it would be quiet but you could still feel the fluid moving.
 

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Discussion Starter #207
Did you ever look into using the fans to generate extra front down force?
Not with any real consideration. My assumption was that I'd need some serious fan airflow to make a measurable difference and packaging such a fan would be challenging without more tear up to the front end.

Do you have a bleeding procedure planned for the front heat exchangers? What I did was to fill them and run the electric pump while holding the radiators in my hands and rotating them in the air so that the pump would push the air out. Clam off and exchangers uninstalled, of course. I suppose you could use a vacuum fill system as well but there was something satisfying about moving the heat exchanger about and feeling the air leave the system. With air in the system, you could hear gurgling in the system and after it was bled, it would be quiet but you could still feel the fluid moving.
My plan largely matches what you did - pre fill where possible and detach from the car and rotate as needed to help air move through the system while the pump was running.
 

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On the NASCAR cars, they will run so called brake ducts which are driven by RC Jet Airplane motors. They can actually effect the handling of the car with these. They will test in the wind tunnel to actually measure the benefits gained by their use.
Later,
Eldon
 

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Discussion Starter #209 (Edited)
Progress! Nearing the "first drive"... which will likely be just putting some load on the engine around the neighborhood and using some increased gain settings with the VE table learning functionality. This speeds up the tuning process quite a bit, as the ECU will self tune the fueling.

First up - as I was bleeding the SC coolant circuit, I noticed drops of water coming from the front left heat exchanger... damn. Sure enough, there was a small section of weld bead where I didn't flow the material into the base AL. Should have caught it with a visual inspection. After welding, I made a pressure test setup to ensure there we no more leaks.


Finished up thermocouple extensions for SC coolant inlet/outlet and trans temp monitoring:


Coolant temp and IAT registered ~16C at the time this was taken. The thermocouples show reasonable agreement with the thermistors:


Whipped up a quick heat shield for the rear trans mount:




Brake calipers installed at all four corners, new lines and associated adapters for the inboard connections:




The inboard attachment it not easy to access. This would be tough with the clam installed.


In the rear, the caliper adapter just clears the knuckle... as designed:




The caliper placement is spot on:




With the caliper brackets installed, axles could be bolted up to the stub axles:


The catch can I had planned to use had a cracked filter and the drain valve was missing. I replaced it with a billet Moroso 1qt unit. It's a bit heavier and I'll need to stiffen the bracketry, but it fits nicely:


The intake filter didn't need much to finish it up, just a simple support tied to the rear diagonal will suffice for now:


Should receive plenty of fresh air in this position:


The pusher SPAL fans came in and I finished up the wiring. The fans are controlled by the ECU and will only be active at low speeds:


 

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Looking good!!!! Of course when you are done we need a wet weight so DarkSol can laugh and point! :p
 

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Such an impressive build.
 
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Discussion Starter #212
Of course when you are done we need a wet weight so DarkSol can laugh and point! :p
"Portly" should accurately describe the weight.

Here are my guesses at weight deltas... I think the car weighed 1980 lbs last time it was at TrackSpec.

  • 33 lbs for transmission swap
  • 5 lbs for beefier axles
  • ~25 lbs for supercharger
  • ~3 lbs for 10-rib pulley setup
  • - ~5 lbs for stock oil coolers
  • ~8 lbs for SC heat exchangers
  • ~3 lbs for rear oil cooler & fan
  • ~2 lbs for new wiring & relays
  • ~4 lbs for larger muffler
  • - ~5 lbs for no catalytic converter
  • - ~22 lbs for AC system (according to LT)
  • 5 lbs for SC coolant pump
  • 1 lb for Haltech ECU & modules
  • 1 lb worth of zip ties
  • 4 lbs for rear caliper swap (previously using HiSpec 2 piston)
  • 2 lbs for front caliper swap (previously using AP 2 piston)
  • - 1 lb for front knuckles
  • - ~4 lbs front speakers and radio
  • - ~3 lbs for passenger air bag
  • - 1 lb for Cobra alarm delete

So... I'd estimate around 55 lb heavier, putting it at 2035 lbs with 1/3 tank of fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #214
Here's a comparison of the Wilwood pads vs. the 2-piston AP pads:


A quick way to defeat the "reverse lockout" feature of the shifter mechanism is to adjust the cable actuation to make it actuate by default:


Here's the lockout lever pulled out of the way:


I also whipped up a quick panel where the stereo was formerly located. This panel will only hold the traction control knob for now. I'll probably have another one made with anodize and engraving. Any ideas for clever labeling of the traction control settings?
 
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