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Discussion Starter #161
Also, this is my favorite thread on LT. Keep up the great work! I look forward to seeing the finished product.
And, thank you for the kind words. It helps with motivation lulls sometimes. I too am looking forward to the finished project. I knew it would take a long time, but not this long!
 

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Thanks for the write up on how you made the shroud! The next time I have the front clam off I might give it a go.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
 

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Consider... kind of. I wanted to keep the various cooling circuits separate. If one is under or over cooled, I can adjust independently of the others. Oil cooling is now achieved in the rear, so only water lines (main engine radiator through the tub sills and SC where the old oil lines ran) run to the front of the vehicle.
If oil cooling is done in the rear then what are the side front coolers for?
 

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They are the radiators for the charge cooler, i.e. part of the inter cooler system.
 
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Yep, a composite project like this one would be an excellent way to dip your toes in the water. Not complicated and not visible. Perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #168
BOE right-hand side oil cooler is installed. The BRMS hoses are super flexible due to the corrugated construction... and they're super light. I may have to remake one of them as I'm heavily considering adding a 3qt Accusump that would need to have a check valve installed as part of the system. Ideas for a custom dry sump are also swirling around in my mind...



I'm also really happy with how some 3D printed pieces turned out. Tons of measuring required for these profiles. These prints will allow me to create fiberglass ducts for the front, side heat exchangers. The forward profile matches the cutouts in the front clam really nicely. Should make for a fun composite project.



 

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Which 3D printer are you using to get the print volume that you are achieving? I've been looking for a 3D printer but keep running in to a volume/price performance issue.

Here's a couple of pics of a transcooler bracket I designed and printed in CF material.

20190318_170419.jpg
20190318_170433.jpg
20190318_165947.jpg
20190318_170419.jpg


Later,
Eldon
 

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Discussion Starter #170
I actually bought these prints from 3DHubs because my printer doesn't have the volume capacity. I have a buddy that said he could have printed them on his LulzBot 6. I had a LulzBot 5 at my last job and it worked quite well.
 

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"Fun Composite Project" said no one ever.... Lookin' good Jdawson!
 

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holy ****, this thread is amazing - I just binge read the entire thing - its like Project binky but in text form and with a Lotus. Way above what I will likely ever do with my car, but man, excited to see how this turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter #175
Updates. Making progress.

Still to be done before I can start it:
  • Complete modifications of front coolers
  • Mount fans for front coolers
  • Fabricate trans external fluid circuit and temp sensing install
  • Complete final installation of hoses in the engine bay
  • Complete inspection of fasteners & fluid connections
  • Fill fluids
  • Theorize about what my startup ECU calibration should look like
What's not on the list is powering up the 12V bus.... because that's done! None of the smoke came out and the only wiring issue I found was a reversal of the throttle body pinout.

Battery connected


Signals live from the ECU being communicated over CAN to the AEM dash


Wiring cleanup continues. My redundant WBO2 sensor is an AEM inline X-series. They apparently expected you to route the wiring back and forth along the length of the vehicle three times with how much wiring they provide. I opted to cut it down to just what I need.

Here's what was removed:


Here's the remainder that will be installed:


The Bussmann relay box is complete, installed and functional


The molds for making the front cooler ducting are coming along. They've been covered with filler, sanded, primed, coated with enamel (image shown) and now they're going through color sanding with 1500 grit before they go through polishing and waxing. They're way smoother than they look in the image.
 

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A lot of this work looks better than Lotus OE. So cool to see someone go all the way.

Do those molds have enough draft angle? Looks like it might be a tough release.
 

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Obviously you are similar to myself in the sense that when things are apart, we look at that as a good time to clean them. But curious as to what you use to clean up some of these parts, especially the aluminum bits which tend to be hard to clean?
 

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Discussion Starter #178
Do those molds have enough draft angle? Looks like it might be a tough release.
Excellent question... and it's going to be close. I think it will be an asymmetrical pull off the molds. Worst comes to worst and I'll split them in a corner to unwrap them from the molds and mend the parts once they're free. I'll post the details when I try to pull some parts off them.

Obviously you are similar to myself in the sense that when things are apart, we look at that as a good time to clean them. But curious as to what you use to clean up some of these parts, especially the aluminum bits which tend to be hard to clean?
I can't begin to describe how much time went into cleaning parts.

For steel parts I wanted stripped bare, I used Rustoleum rust remover. Let it soak submerged and it works really well removing old zinc coatings or rust.

For aluminum parts, I scrubbed for hours with nylon, brass and stainless brushes to knock the big corrosion off. I then used Napa Aluminum Brightener to remove more material and expose the bright raw material base color. That stuff can also be used to strip anodize, if you have some parts that were not sealed properly after anodize and saw some UV exposure, causing them to look somewhat bleached. The brightener is a mixture of sulfuric and phosphoric acid. It will harm your skin. Use caution if you use it. It's also incredibly fast acting. Most of the parts only received a coating or two that lasted ~30-60 seconds before rinsing thoroughly with water.
 

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Discussion Starter #180 (Edited)
Other than the front radiators, what are your plans for aero?
This is all what I would lump into "phase 2" of my project. Once the powertrain is all sorted and reliable, I'll start on aero modifications.

Working front to back...

Several splitter configurations to match various time trial rules. The most aggressive will feature about a ~10" protrusion, have 4X integrated diffusers and end fencing with conical outer vortex generators that could stick out as far as 14" from the maximum width of the front fender arches... but won't likely be that extreme. The least aggressive will be a flat splitter with 5" of protrusion. All splitters will mount to the crash structure and tub and not to the clam, in terms of load path.

The front fenders will have louver venting along the top surfaces to promote venting of air out of the wheel wells and help create a deltaP across the corner heat exchangers.

The wheel wells will be modified to promote airflow behind the wheel. The leading corner of each rocker panel will be removed to improve the flow path as air exits the wheel well. Still need to further research the legality of this desired modification for various time trial rule sets.

Barge boards and sill plates will be used to guide the air along the side of the car and increase the effective area of the under body surfaces.

The rake will be increased to ~0.5 to 0.7 degrees relative to the ground plane. This requires a 20-30mm ride height difference front to rear. The front will be around 100mm, as measured per the normal techniques.

I'm planning to make a custom rear diffuser with the throat and strakes starting at the axle centerline. The outer strakes will feature outward facing lips to help prevent tire outwash from contaminating the diffuser channels. The center channels will have the same height as the outer channels and will expand both vertically and horizontally as a function of longitudinal position. The diffuser will be mounted via an augmented BOE rear panel delete bracket to help support the loads.

I have a swan neck mount wing from DJ Race Cars waiting to be installed. It's a SM132 element, 300mm chord, 1640mm width. The wing will have multiple mounting positions, again depending on time trials rules... but in general, the wing will be mounted 6" above the roof line. I may augment the wing with a second element (not class legal for most of the time trial classes) for times when I just want to achieve a maximum downforce configuration.

I'm also looking into ways to duct air out the back of the car more effectively and increase airflow throughout the engine bay and also reduce the size of the low pressure wake. Maybe removing one tail light from each rear corner and using it as a venting duct outlet. We'll see...
 
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