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Hey guys don’t have my manual with me to reference so have a question. I was thinking of replacing all rockers when I replace my cam (haven’t inspected it yet but figure if it isn’t wiped it will be) and was wondering. Being as there appears to be a rod that runs the length for the rockers can you take them out with engine in car?
All I’ve found on this is a few pix and a couple peoples site but their engines have all be out of the car when done
 

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The rocker panels are not something you want to mess with if you don't absolutely have to. They are not bolted onto the car, they are glued and have A/C and coolant lines running inside on both sides. Are they damaged? Post photos of what you are thinking of working on.
Good luck!
 

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Not that many ppl have experienced wiped cams, so expecting yours to be in that group may be a bit much.

Engine stays in car.


Note to new Elise & Exige Owners:


1. These cars have large (i.e. dangerous) blind spots. Multivex mirrors are NLA, but RLS (Really Light Stuff) offers very good tape-on replacements.


2. The horns are way too weak (quiet). There’s an inverse relationship: smaller the car, louder the horn needs to be.

Get something such as a Stebel Nautilus.

Stock: “Excuse me”


Stebel: “HONK! LOOK OUT!”

Remove the stock horn; replace with louder.

(I drive with my finger on the horn button in any traffic. Iffy situations, my headlights are on.

Stay to the left of traffic, i.e. avoid passing on the right if you can.

Stop way behind trucks, SUVs, etc. Some have blindspots >50’. )


3. The early cars came with misaimed and dim headlights. If you drive at night, convert to HIDs. While better than stock halogen bulbs are available, HIDs throw more light. Stay around 5000k. As of this writing LEDs are not as good.


4. Ensure your car has had the work required by the recall for oil line fittings done. You could lose an engine and/or spin in your own oil.

5. Transmission:

The best transmission lube I’ve found is Redline MT-90 plus a little Power Punch Extreme Gear Oil Additive. (Note that it takes two changes to get rid of the previous lube.)

a) Early cars have wobbly shift towers. Look up Stan’s Mod (bolt and spacer; http://www.billswebspace.com/ShifterReinforcement.pdf) and

And, use:
Re-Enforcer long thru bolts that terminate under car and tie down the tower:
https://www.inokinetic.com/lotus/re-enforcer?category=Transmission

These (lube, mods) make a huge change in shifting.


6. As per some engine builders on these sites, wait AT LEAST 20 - 30 minutes after coolant has reached full operating temp before engaging cam switchover.

For street cars, consider removing one or both oil coolers. Some cover them. Oil doesn’t get hot enough on street, leading to cam wiping. I use Mobil 1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel oil.

Car at 85k, no issues.



7. Rear toe-links can loosen and break with disastrous results. You can check tq periodically, or use Nordlock washers. Best is conversion to better engineered brace, such as BOE’s InoKinetic’s for two examples.

8. While under the car with panel off, look around for hoses and wires chafing their way to failure. That’s how this was found:
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f311/cooling-ticking-timebomb-how-your-cooling-u-tube-47232/

9. The stock radiators are prone to leaking where the end caps meet the metal part. Keep an eye on this. Most of us use single-pass all-aluminum radiators.

10. When your wheel well liner comes loose, skip the lame plastic rivet and use Well-Nuts instead.

11. Life will be better if you disable the auto-arming alarm function on the earlier cars. You won’t have to press a button to start the car. Instructions:

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f320/remote-key-fob-immobilizer-misc-alarm-programming-70940/


12. These cars cannot be left off a Battery Tender for weeks at a time. Unless dead batteries are a particular joy of yours. Buy one right away. There are numerous threads here about which ppl use and like.

You NEED a digital multimeter (voltmeter) to work on modern cars. Handy around house too. Get one this week.

13, Some on this site are a bit obsessed with hockey pucks for lifting the car. Don’t use these. Too hard and slippery, generally, and too small a surface area. Use a piece of wood, as your hero does.

14. Visit the Uber Thread

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f3/elise-exige-uberpost-read-everything-you-need-know-here-25131/

15. Most parts on the car are made by Toyota and others, so buying things like a/c compressors, engine parts, etc. is wildly expensive when purchased thru Lotus.
Toyota dealers, auto parts stores are way less expensive.

16. The soft high-grip tires on most of our cars lose much of that grip when temperatures drop below 50 F. I know of too many ppl who spun their cars when not remembering this. I use hi-performance all-seasons.

Note that many summer tires cannot even be stored in temps below 20 F.

-----

Plus, “How to bleed brakes”:

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f101/how-bleed-brakes-241138/


How to Search:

For future reference: Don't use the search on this site. Simply use Google and end the search text with "site:lotustalk.com". E.g.
Transmission Fluid change what bolt site:lotustalk.com no space betw site:lotustalk.com
 

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Acme Super Moderator ** The Enforcer **
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The rocker panels are not something you want to mess with if you don't absolutely have to. They are not bolted onto the car, they are glued and have A/C and coolant lines running inside on both sides. Are they damaged? Post photos of what you are thinking of working on.
Good luck!
He's asking about camshaft rockers and you're talking about the door sill covers.

San
 

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`08 Elise-SC-220
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519 Posts
The rocker panels are not something you want to mess with if you don't absolutely have to. They are not bolted onto the car, they are glued and have A/C and coolant lines running inside on both sides. Are they damaged? Post photos of what you are thinking of working on.
Good luck!
I think he's referring to the cam followers under the valve cover, where valve lash is adjusted. >:)
 

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There is enough room to remove the rod. It comes out the driver's side, so you'll have to move some items around like the coolant tank and hoses.
 

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Wow, do I feel stupid. :shrug: That is what I get for reading and responding on my phone! Sorry all, that was dumb of me! :facepalm
 

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Hey guys don’t have my manual with me to reference so have a question. I was thinking of replacing all rockers when I replace my cam (haven’t inspected it yet but figure if it isn’t wiped it will be) and was wondering. Being as there appears to be a rod that runs the length for the rockers can you take them out with engine in car?
All I’ve found on this is a few pix and a couple peoples site but their engines have all be out of the car when done
Rocker & Cam removal - see attached guide. :nerd:

Disclaimer - I have not used this guide, I only have it for when/if I switch to Stage 3 cam.
 

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As posted above, the shaft slides out the driver's side of the engine after moving the coolant tank out of the way.

If you are buying a stock camshaft, they come with new rockers from Toyota. If you are buying from an non-OEM supplier, there are a few that sell the cams and rockers separately for too much money.

Do a google search for the camshaft part number 13501-29025. You should be able to find the cam and rockers for about $250 from online Toyota parts dealers.
 

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I believe the conventional wisdom is to replace the rockers with the cam (assuming you even need a new cam). There are some very thoughtful discussions on this site about OEM vs aftermarket stock configuration. Look on this site also for a tricky (yet very easy) way to remove the chain tensioner. With any luck, you won't have to do the work. Don't confuse discoloration for wiping. Good luck!
 
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