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So before I put this front clam back on , I see a lot of different discussions on the ever famous radiator, 2005 Elise and is the original, can someone plz send me a link to purchase the best bang for the buck , preferably 1 that exactly fits , going to be traveling over 1000 miles and dont want to have any issues, also anything else I should maybe do since clam is off Thanks guys sorry but very new to Lotus
 

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Not sure about the rad but I would do this. Been meaning to do it to my car since mine failed.




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I got Wizard Cooling, thicker version. Thinner v. is easier to install. USE`
Perhaps very slightly more cooling capacity with thicker.


Note to new Elise & Exige Owners:

1. These cars have large (i.e. dangerous) blind spots. Multivex mirrors are NLA, but RLS (Really Light Stuff) offers very good tape-on replacements.

2. The horns are way too weak (quiet). There’s an inverse relationship: smaller the car, louder the horn needs to be.

Get something such as a Stebel Nautilus.

Stebel: “HONK! LOOK OUT!”

Remove the stock horn; replace with louder.

(I drive with my finger on the horn button in any traffic. Iffy situations, my headlights are on.

Stay to the left of traffic, i.e. avoid passing on the right if you can.

Stop way behind trucks, SUVs, etc. Some have blindspots >50’. )

3. The early cars came with misaimed and dim headlights. If you drive at night, convert to HIDs. While better than stock halogen bulbs are available, HIDs throw more light. Stay around 5000k. As of this writing LEDs are not as good.

4. Ensure your car has had the work required by the recall for oil line fittings done. You could lose an engine and/or spin in your own oil.

5. Transmission:

The best transmission lube I’ve found is Redline MT-90 plus a little Power Punch Extreme Gear Oil Additive. (Note that it takes two changes to get rid of the previous lube.)

a) Early cars have wobbly shift towers. Look up Stan’s Mod (bolt and spacer; http://www.billswebspace.com/ShifterReinforcement.pdf) and

And, use:
Re-Enforcer long thru bolts that terminate under car and tie down the tower:
https://www.inokinetic.com/lotus/re-enforcer?category=Transmission

These (lube, mods) make a huge change in shifting.

6. As per some engine builders on these sites, wait AT LEAST 20 -35 minutes aftercoolant has reached full operating temp before engaging cam switchover.

For street cars, consider removing one or both oil coolers. Some cover them. Oil doesn’t get hot enough on street, leading to cam wiping.

I use Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel oil. 85k miles and fine, but one is not a useful example.

7. Rear toe-links can loosen and break with disastrous results. You can check tq periodically, or use Nordlock washers. Best is conversion to better engineered brace, such as BOE’s InoKinetic’s for two examples.

8. While under the car with panel off, look around for hoses and wires chafing their way to failure. That’s how this was found:

9. The stock radiators are prone to leaking where the end caps meet the metal part. Keep an eye on this. Most of us use single-pass all-aluminum radiators.

10. When your wheel well liner comes loose, skip the lame plastic rivet and use Well-Nuts instead.

11. Life will be better if you disable the auto-arming alarm function on the earlier cars. You won’t have to press a button to start the car. Instructions:

Remote Key Fob, Immobilizer & Misc Alarm Programming

12. These cars cannot be left off a Battery Tender for weeks at a time. Unless dead batteries are a particular joy of yours. Buy one right away. There are numerous threads here about which ppl use and like.

You NEED a digital multimeter (voltmeter) to work on modern cars. Handy around house too. Get one this week.

13, Some on this site are a bit obsessed with hockey pucks for lifting the car. Don’t use these. Too hard and slippery, generally, and too small a surface area. Use a piece of wood, as your hero does.

14. If you are fooling with sparkplugs, remember to slather those tubes in dielectric grease (prevents shorts).

15. Visit the Uber Thread

**Elise/Exige Uberpost READ THIS. Everything you need...

16. Most parts on the car are made by Toyota and others, so buying things like a/c compressors, engine parts, etc. is wildly expensive when purchased thru Lotus.
Toyota dealers, auto parts stores are way less expensive.

17. The soft high-grip tires on most of our cars lose much of that grip when temperatures drop below 50 F. I know of too many ppl who spun their cars when not remembering this. I use hi-performance all-seasons.

Note that many summer tires cannot even be stored in temps below 20 F.

-----

Plus, “How to bleed brakes”:

How to Bleed Brakes


How to Search:

For future reference: Don't use the search on this site. Simply use Google and end the search text with "site:lotustalk.com". E.g.
Transmission Fluid change what bolt site:lotustalk.com
no space betweensite:lotustalk.com
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I got Wizard Cooling, thicker version. Thinner v. is easier to install. USE`
Perhaps very slightly more cooling capacity with thicker.


Note to new Elise & Exige Owners:

1. These cars have large (i.e. dangerous) blind spots. Multivex mirrors are NLA, but RLS (Really Light Stuff) offers very good tape-on replacements.

2. The horns are way too weak (quiet). There’s an inverse relationship: smaller the car, louder the horn needs to be.

Get something such as a Stebel Nautilus.

Stebel: “HONK! LOOK OUT!”

Remove the stock horn; replace with louder.

(I drive with my finger on the horn button in any traffic. Iffy situations, my headlights are on.

Stay to the left of traffic, i.e. avoid passing on the right if you can.

Stop way behind trucks, SUVs, etc. Some have blindspots >50’. )

3. The early cars came with misaimed and dim headlights. If you drive at night, convert to HIDs. While better than stock halogen bulbs are available, HIDs throw more light. Stay around 5000k. As of this writing LEDs are not as good.

4. Ensure your car has had the work required by the recall for oil line fittings done. You could lose an engine and/or spin in your own oil.

5. Transmission:

The best transmission lube I’ve found is Redline MT-90 plus a little Power Punch Extreme Gear Oil Additive. (Note that it takes two changes to get rid of the previous lube.)

a) Early cars have wobbly shift towers. Look up Stan’s Mod (bolt and spacer; http://www.billswebspace.com/ShifterReinforcement.pdf) and

And, use:
Re-Enforcer long thru bolts that terminate under car and tie down the tower:
https://www.inokinetic.com/lotus/re-enforcer?category=Transmission

These (lube, mods) make a huge change in shifting.

6. As per some engine builders on these sites, wait AT LEAST 20 -35 minutes aftercoolant has reached full operating temp before engaging cam switchover.

For street cars, consider removing one or both oil coolers. Some cover them. Oil doesn’t get hot enough on street, leading to cam wiping.

I use Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel oil. 85k miles and fine, but one is not a useful example.

7. Rear toe-links can loosen and break with disastrous results. You can check tq periodically, or use Nordlock washers. Best is conversion to better engineered brace, such as BOE’s InoKinetic’s for two examples.

8. While under the car with panel off, look around for hoses and wires chafing their way to failure. That’s how this was found:

9. The stock radiators are prone to leaking where the end caps meet the metal part. Keep an eye on this. Most of us use single-pass all-aluminum radiators.

10. When your wheel well liner comes loose, skip the lame plastic rivet and use Well-Nuts instead.

11. Life will be better if you disable the auto-arming alarm function on the earlier cars. You won’t have to press a button to start the car. Instructions:

Remote Key Fob, Immobilizer & Misc Alarm Programming

12. These cars cannot be left off a Battery Tender for weeks at a time. Unless dead batteries are a particular joy of yours. Buy one right away. There are numerous threads here about which ppl use and like.

You NEED a digital multimeter (voltmeter) to work on modern cars. Handy around house too. Get one this week.

13, Some on this site are a bit obsessed with hockey pucks for lifting the car. Don’t use these. Too hard and slippery, generally, and too small a surface area. Use a piece of wood, as your hero does.

14. If you are fooling with sparkplugs, remember to slather those tubes in dielectric grease (prevents shorts).

15. Visit the Uber Thread

**Elise/Exige Uberpost READ THIS. Everything you need...

16. Most parts on the car are made by Toyota and others, so buying things like a/c compressors, engine parts, etc. is wildly expensive when purchased thru Lotus.
Toyota dealers, auto parts stores are way less expensive.

17. The soft high-grip tires on most of our cars lose much of that grip when temperatures drop below 50 F. I know of too many ppl who spun their cars when not remembering this. I use hi-performance all-seasons.

Note that many summer tires cannot even be stored in temps below 20 F.

-----

Plus, “How to bleed brakes”:

How to Bleed Brakes


How to Search:

For future reference: Don't use the search on this site. Simply use Google and end the search text with "site:lotustalk.com". E.g.
Transmission Fluid change what bolt site:lotustalk.com
no space betweensite:lotustalk.com
Not sure about the rad but I would do this. Been meaning to do it to my car since mine failed.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
THANKS FOR THE INFO 👍
 

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So before I put this front clam back on , I see a lot of different discussions on the ever famous radiator, 2005 Elise and is the original, can someone plz send me a link to purchase the best bang for the buck , preferably 1 that exactly fits , going to be traveling over 1000 miles and dont want to have any issues, also anything else I should maybe do since clam is off Thanks guys sorry but very new to Lotus
Four of the vendors on here carry just what you need as far as your cooling concerns. Check out blackwatchracing.com BOE Fabrication GregsRaceParts.com GRP https://www.inokinetic.com/
 
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I used this one, it worked fine. The job is a pain for sure. If you’re going to do the resistor replacement too, then you will have to disconnect the ac lines, which will make removing the old radiator a good bit easier (avoid cutting the access holes mentioned in this thread);


 

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I've removed my front clam probably 8 different times. I'm down to 1.5 hours, but it's still one of the least favorite jobs to do on the car as it's so flimsy and on top of that the headlight buckets are super fragile.

With that said, just replace the radiator now! Talk to Shinoo at Inokinetic.
 

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Check out the BWR F1 Radiator...since you got the clam off now is the time! Its a work of art and man it is LIGHT. Aluminum end tanks (like it should have been from the beginning) , a lot more tubes and fins but its thin and did I say before it is lightweight? Fred at bwr is a pleasure to work with.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Check out the BWR F1 Radiator...since you got the clam off now is the time! Its a work of art and man it is LIGHT. Aluminum end tanks (like it should have been from the beginning) , a lot more tubes and fins but its thin and did I say before it is lightweight? Fred at bwr is a pleasure to work with.
Thank you sir , I’m on it
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I used this one, it worked fine. The job is a pain for sure. If you’re going to do the resistor replacement too, then you will have to disconnect the ac lines, which will make removing the old radiator a good bit easier (avoid cutting the access holes mentioned in this thread);


Thank you for the ilinks , def gonna make my life easier
 

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I have a brand new high performance pro alloy from BOE. I bought it some months ago planning to install proactively this Summer. Box is opened as I wanted to check it was intact when delivered. When I went to scope out the job I realized to my chagrin someone else had already replaced the OEM version. Ah well. It gave my children something to make fun about. It's $600 on BOE. Assuming shipping is not more than $50 or so, I'd be happy to sell for $500 shipping included. I guess I should post this on the Parts for Sale section and will do so. Just haven't been able to find 10 free minutes.

I second kudos to Fred. I have his single Penskes and he is always very helpful.
 

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Thank you sir , I’m on it
Nice! perhaps also replace the stock radiator hoses with silicone ones - with built in bleeder valves just like factory. I saw it on Inokinetic and the bwr site.
 
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I also have the BOE Pro Alloy that I installed many miles ago with no issues and cooler running temps. That's a fair price above! Be sure to install new hoses, silicone even better...
 

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I’d do rad, horn and resistor pack if I took my clam off. Maybe brake lines?

I’ve actually had the parts for the resistor pack kicking around for years as I lost speed 3 a while back. When I lose one more, I’ll do it.


Make your own resistor pack.


I always thought this way to fix was worth a shot. Basically you need a borescope and a pair of needle nose pliers. You leave the old pack in and just pull the wires out. No hassle of recharging the AC. Worth trying because if it doesn’t work, you just pull the blower like the traditional repair method.

 
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