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Discussion Starter #1
Looking to put black wheels on my CO '08 Elise SC.

I had carbon RACs on my old car and loved them. Don't want to spend that dough. Also want to keep the factory SC wheels stock (and not powder coat them).

So, another set. Want inexpensive.

The Torques look sharp, but most of the threads on them are a couple years old.

Thinking flat black Torques with Fronts: 16x7 +27 offset - 205/50/16 Dunlop
Rears: 17x8 +35 offset - 235/45/17 Dunlop Star Spec

Anyone have recent experience with them? Tell me your opinions.

Also, what did you guys do for center caps?
 

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After the luck you've had with these cars recently, I'm not sure how wise it would be to go with a set of knock-offs of questionable quality...

Why not simply plasti dip your stock wheels? That would meet all of the criteria.
 

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Looking to put black wheels on my CO '08 Elise SC.

I had carbon RACs on my old car and loved them. Don't want to spend that dough. Also want to keep the factory SC wheels stock (and not powder coat them).

So, another set. Want inexpensive.

The Torques look sharp, but most of the threads on them are a couple years old.

Thinking flat black Torques with Fronts: 16x7 +27 offset - 205/50/16 Dunlop
Rears: 17x8 +35 offset - 235/45/17 Dunlop Star Spec

Anyone have recent experience with them? Tell me your opinions.

Also, what did you guys do for center caps?
the torques are really heavy (& getting very hard to source since rota has some really crap customer service)... I would find a set of used LSS rims, or go a different route honestly

also, do you want to maintain the 16/17 size combo? or would you consider going 15/16?

because if you want to go 15/16 enkei rpf01 is a quality lightweight rim that'll run you about $1k a set brand new
 

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Heavy? The set I have seemed really light.
Don't go by their advertised weight; use a scale.

The actual weight is a few pounds more per wheel than a high quality forged set that is 1" to 1-1/2" wider.

The 15/16 suggestion was also a good one.
 

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That is the exact setup I use. For center caps I used the ones that came with the Rotas but I used black Lotus wheel emblems on the caps. BTW these are easily obtained off Ebay for about $600 or so shipped. I use my sportpack wheels for auto-x.

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1372539889.165818.jpg


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Josh - you say 'questionable quality' - what's questionable about them?

Seems that many have them and haven't had issues.

If others see them as of questionable quality, lemme know.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Do a google search
Thanks. I would have never thought of that :rolleyes:

I'm not really interested in what people on a Subaru forum think about them. I'm interested in people who have used them on OUR cars.

All of the threads I've found, from that magical google thing, are about 2 plus years old. Hence, putting this new thread up. Wanted to see what experience folks have had with them two to three years on. Keep in mind, these are for street.

By all accounts, everyone on this forum (at least in the older threads) seems to have no issues with them.
 

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I seem to remember that someone here had one crack on them, but in general these cars being lighter probably limits issues.

Beyond the rash of reported failures (sure, in other cars where 99% of their volume goes to), my bigger concern with them is that they are a knock-off wheel company. All of their wheels are cheap cast copies of "real" performance wheels. I can't support that, personally. I've never understood why they wouldn't just do their own designs.
 

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Oh noes, a few lbs... rotfl. From the way they were talking the wheels were 40-50lbs each or something.

Don't go by their advertised weight; use a scale.

The actual weight is a few pounds more per wheel than a high quality forged set that is 1" to 1-1/2" wider.

The 15/16 suggestion was also a good one.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Josh - I'll peruse around a bit more. Owning a Moke and researching the Mini world, there are tons of people who run Minilite knockoffs and are happy with them. But when you say 'knockoff' - what are they a knockoff of? To me, there are like 8 bajillion companies doing street and track wheels so I guess I'm not even sure what a 'knockoff' is in the reference. I can't keep all this sh*t straight! :)

As for a few lbs - yeah, I don't stress about 'ooh, I have to have extra spicy Vindaloo so that I can crap out 4 pounds before I drive'. I get it, our cars are light, but in the grand scheme of things, I'm not concerned about an extra 10 pounds changing the rotation of the Earth. 10 pounds is slightly more than a gallon of gas (8 pounds). 10 pounds is my computer bag that I take to work/meetings. 10 pounds could be the shopping bags of stuff I just bought at Target or Lowes. 10 pounds is 5 pounds less than a JL Stealthbox. Hell, I should just drive naked to get rid of all of that wasted weight that clothing brings. Shaving my entire body will probably reduce a pound or two.

So I'm not all that concerned about wheels being 10 pounds more than stock. (Keep in mind that the SC wheels are .5" wider than standard wheels, so even they are probably heavier because wider = more material = heavier).

I'll just get a high colonic or run my ass around the block a few times to offset the weight.
 

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Thanks Josh - I'll peruse around a bit more. Owning a Moke and researching the Mini world, there are tons of people who run Minilite knockoffs and are happy with them. But when you say 'knockoff' - what are they a knockoff of? To me, there are like 8 bajillion companies doing street and track wheels so I guess I'm not even sure what a 'knockoff' is in the reference. I can't keep all this sh*t straight! :)

As for a few lbs - yeah, I don't stress about 'ooh, I have to have extra spicy Vindaloo so that I can crap out 4 pounds before I drive'. I get it, our cars are light, but in the grand scheme of things, I'm not concerned about an extra 10 pounds changing the rotation of the Earth. 10 pounds is slightly more than a gallon of gas (8 pounds). 10 pounds is my computer bag that I take to work/meetings. 10 pounds could be the shopping bags of stuff I just bought at Target or Lowes. 10 pounds is 5 pounds less than a JL Stealthbox. Hell, I should just drive naked to get rid of all of that wasted weight that clothing brings. Shaving my entire body will probably reduce a pound or two.

So I'm not all that concerned about wheels being 10 pounds more than stock. (Keep in mind that the SC wheels are .5" wider than standard wheels, so even they are probably heavier because wider = more material = heavier).

I'll just get a high colonic or run my ass around the block a few times to offset the weight.
I understand your wieght comments, but rotating mass (aka: wheels, flywheels, brake rotors) has a much larger effect on performance that non-rotating mass (aka: computer bag, clothes, & contents of your bowels). My advice is try to keep your wheels as light as possible! Google sprung Vs unsprung weight is you want to dig into the physics of what is going on!
 

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Knock off wheels and plastidip mentioned in the same thread? I wasn't aware I was browsing NASIOC....

knock off replica companies make crappy wheels. There is plenty of proof to the fact that rota wheels are weak and break easily. Anyone and their mother can replicate a wheel design 90% aesthetically in CAD, and make a cheap casting. But making a wheel that actually is strong and will withstand abuse is much harder.

There are plenty of options out there for good quality wheels that won't cost an arm and a leg. We're running SSR Type Cs for our second set, and found them for an amazing steal a few years ago.


as far as the comments about a few pounds of rotating mass. I bet there are only a handful of drivers on this forum that can actually drive well enough to take advantage of the difference the lighter wheels make.
 

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I had some Rota's back in 2002 and while at a dyno, I got the chance to see the wheel rotating at speed. It was pretty funny to watch how out of round the entire casting was. Good thing the perimeter of the rim was round because the spokes were all kinds of messed up. Pretty lousy wheels but it's your car.
 

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But when you say 'knockoff' - what are they a knockoff of?
Rota only makes wheels that copy the style (look, shape, etc.) of wheels from other popular performance wheel manufacturers. They use cheaper construction techniques and materials (cast versus flow formed or forged) to make wheels that look like better wheels. Think a fake Rolex or fake Louis Vuitton bag.

In the case of the "Torque" model, they are copies of the Work Emotion CR.

I bet there are only a handful of drivers on this forum that can actually drive well enough to take advantage of the difference the lighter wheels make.
True, on the track - yet every one of us can feel the smoother ride over cracks and potholes on the street and benefit from the shorter braking distances in emergency situations.
 

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as far as the comments about a few pounds of rotating mass. I bet there are only a handful of drivers on this forum that can actually drive well enough to take advantage of the difference the lighter wheels make.
Wait, are you trying to tell me that Jeff isn't a good enough driver to take advantage of a lighter wheel! :p :D
 

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They use cheaper construction techniques and materials (cast versus flow formed or forged) to make wheels that look like better wheels. Think a fake Rolex or fake Louis Vuitton bag.
This. A wheel that is strong enough from forged construction very well be a pile of weak garbage when cast. Also highly depends on what metal alloy you choose. Cheap alloys can be much weaker. That is the huge problem with replica companies, they make them as cheap as they can without really proving they are strong enough still.

Wait, are you trying to tell me that Jeff isn't a good enough driver to take advantage of a lighter wheel! :p :D
no comment.
 

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Grassroots motorsports did an instrumented tes of wheel weight vs acceleration a few years ago, and found that they don't make that much of a difference for a significant spread in weight.

F=MA and wieght is the enemy of speed, we all know this. However the effect of wheel wight is one of the most exageratered things on the net. I think it is becouse people like to buy wheels and bost about their specs. Nothing wrong with that, but the truth is it just doesnt matter for anything but a sanctioned race.

People like to talk about how rotating weight effects accelleration, but it is actually the rotating moment of inertia. This goes upp with the 4th power of radius, so the majority of the rotating inertia is in the tire carcas, not the wheels.

The ROI for light wheels is very low.
 
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