[Ave]

Hi, folks,

I've got stock rotors - still original after about 20K miles and 16 track days (first year was very newbie). They've developed a lip you can feel, but I just checked and they've got about 25.5 millimeters left (is it millimeters? Whatever that metric is that you measure with a micrometer.) I will need to get a new set of brakes because those are running down, though.

I'm running Pagid Blues now and I've heard the shape of those is what causes the lip. Anyone have any experience with this, and any advice about switching to Hawk HT-10? I'd like to try those and they are a bit cheaper than Pagid. I'm worried they won't fit with the lip that's developed. I'm not any kind of expert on rotors or brakes.

Wendy

 

[ChrisB]

I have the stock rotors (original) and stock pads (2nd set) at 26K miles and there is a definite lip at the very edge of the rotors in front (haven't look at the rears). Before changing pad brands, I would ensure that the newer ones are not larger towards the outer and inner edges.

 

[lotusbrakes]

Hi, folks,

I've got stock rotors - still original after about 20K miles and 16 track days (first year was very newbie). They've developed a lip you can feel, but I just checked and they've got about 25.5 millimeters left (is it millimeters? Whatever that metric is that you measure with a micrometer.) I will need to get a new set of brakes because those are running down, though.

I'm running Pagid Blues now and I've heard the shape of those is what causes the lip. Anyone have any experience with this, and any advice about switching to Hawk HT-10? I'd like to try those and they are a bit cheaper than Pagid. I'm worried they won't fit with the lip that's developed. I'm not any kind of expert on rotors or brakes.

Wendy

Minimum thickness is 24.5 mm, so you should be ok.

Let me know what you want to do with the HT-10s.

-G

 

[mr t]

FILE NEW PADS

That is what Shinoo recommends if you have a lip. Just file the corresponding surface of the brake pad to compensate the lip of the rotor. This will prevent squeaking.

He also said Lotus recommends a minimum of 25mm thickness of rotor to install new pads.

Best regards,

mr t

 

[xtn]

Having a lip on the edge isn't going to effect your braking performance. As long as you have a margin above the minimum thickness left on the rotor, and as long as there are no OTHER questionable conditions that haven't been mentioned, go ahead with a new set of Pagids and be happy.

xtn

 

[Ave]

Hi, Mr. T and xtn,

Thanks so much for your responses. I measured and got 25.6 mm left in the rotor, so I got a new set of pads, but not Pagid this time. I've got Hawk HT-10, and I could file them if I need to but right now I'm not sure I'll keep them because of this weird notch thing on them. See my other post in Suspension.

Wendy

 

[Elise 323]

Hawks vs Pagids

Hawks are notorius in the Spec Miata racing circles for eating rotors. They stop well. Let us know what you think of the Hawks c/w the Pagid RS4-2s. Since you have accurate pre-Hawk rotor thickness and mileage please keep track of the wear. I've not been able to over heat my blues and they have been easy on the rotors.

 

[Icedog_16]

Wendy, what you're experiencing is normal. I had that when I changed my stock pads at 15K.

 

[LastToy]

brakes...

Hi Wendy, it's Jay. As your rotors get thiner and your pads wear, your brake system's heat sinking capability will decline, and you may experience fade a little earlier than vs. a new rotors/pads. Unless your pads are extremely worn, the potential increase in fade won't be material enough to really affect the braking capability or your enjoyment at the track. I believe our calipers are self-leveling (correct me if I'm wrong... anybody) so you shouldn't feel any degradation in pedal feel. in terms of safety, your rotors show no cracks around the holes so I feel confident in saying that you have at least 15 more track days left on those... in terms of safety. My rotors (and another lotus guy's) rotors had cracks at the end of the previous season and I ran another season the following year (18 track days)... I'm cheap. They still looked fine safetywise, but were getting too thin. In terms of the lip, I wouldn't even worry about it. Even if you don't file the pads, they will file away themselves very quickly. You never know, the new pads may fall into the same spot as the previous pads and may not come in contact w/ the lip. BUT, if you overlap the innner edge too much, then you should file your pads.

 

[Ave]

Thanks, Jay! I also measured the rotors and you were dead on. So I'm happy about that. I've got these Hawk pads that I was going to put on but they have this brain-dead notch thing sticking out, which I need to have ground down. I haven't gotten around to it and don't have the power tools at home to do it, but will put those on. Gotta do it before 6/5, b/c my pads are wafer thin after the weekend at the Glen. Hope I see you at the BMWCCA track day on 6/5.

Wendy

 

[Rennstore]

Hawks devour rotors, acknowledged readily by the Hawk rep himself.

 

[kverges]

Hawk blue 9102 pads eat rotors on the street. At race pace they are fine.

 

[lotusbrakes]

Hawks devour rotors, acknowledged readily by the Hawk rep himself.

Please refrain from posting blatant generalizations.

There are CERTAIN pads that devour rotors under CERTAIN conditions.

Which Hawk pads are you talking about?

-G

 

[R T]

I've always had good luck with Hawk Blues at the track ...... never tried them on the Elise though.