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Discussion Starter #21
Is that connector near the header tank and the TPS sensor? Does this car have the revised harness?
Its near the main coolant tank in the rearmost passenger side of the engine bay. I’m not sure about the revised harness though.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Hi Mike, So glad to hear that the S4s is running the way it should. A coupled of things I question , you said you don't have the service manual? I included it with the sale, also there are a couple of plugs back by the header tank area that went to the deleted exhaust back pressure valve. If you have to replace the fuel pump , it's going to be a real pain in the a$$ because of all the sealer on top of the tank, sorry, on the bright side I did give you a new fuel tank O ring from JAE. Keep up the good work. Dave S4s /forums/images/LotusTalk_2015/smilies/tango_face_smile.png
Dave thanks I realized that after going back through all the materials. Apologize for the misspeak.
Ahhhh glad to know where that plug used to live. I was wondering if that might’ve been it but wasn’t sure.
I’ve got another trip coming up but when I get home I plan to trouble shoot the fuel system. I know the PPPO had the fuel tanks cleaned and sealed to prevent further rust but after checking pressure if its not up to par I’m going to replace the fuel filter first just in case. Then it’ll be decision time from there.
For now I’m just glad to be able to drive!
 

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Big Picture, not sure if you thought about this - keep in mind - dont want to scare you - fuel pressure issues are particularly "dangerous" on turbo cars. If you are driving aggressively on boost and the fuel pump does not deliver the goods (fuel) the cylinder charge can go very lean very quickly. Very lean = detonation and potential damage.

I imagine the computer is smart enough to detect a lean condition very well and quickly but no where near like a modern car.

So be aware of this potential and if its missing or you hear pings or something is not right stay off the boil until you can diagnose.

One issue I have read about here and have experienced on other cars. The fuel pulsation dampener is just above the fuel pump in the tank. This apparently gets old and allows pressure to bleed off. Normally the failure manifests as hard to start because the fuel bleeds off when the car is switched off. Replacement fuel pumps for our cars come with a "pulsation dampener delete" (its a piece of hose). I can imagine that if this plastic bit was really coming apart it might allow pressure to bleed off and cause problems with fuel pressure at high RPMs and boost. Its hard to imagine you would not also have hard start problems but keep it in mind. And if you do end of changing the pump delete the dampener.
 

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Also I thought I was having fuel pump issues and Dave S4s recommended resetting the computer. Made all the difference. Try disconnecting the battery for a bit and reconnecting and let the computer do its relearn on a driving cycle and see if there is any change? cant hurt. My issue was hard start.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Gents. It’s been awhile but finally got a gauge on the rail. Psi is non existent when the switch is turned. At idle I saw 40 psi. When revved gently she saw a 2 psi increase and immediate 5 psi loss. Ie up to 42 then down to 35.
I then tried a flow check. When I depressed the relief valve the rpm immediately dropped and the car nearly quit in less than half a second. When shut down zero fuel psi. No bleed off just instantaneous.
So. Here I am in the garage with two pumps. And a filter just in case.

Authentic Bosch and walbro. Any opinions? PO has a few performance mods done incl John Welch turbo. This makes me lean towards the walbro as I may go with 1-2 size larger secondary injectors like Travis did but also go one stage up on the chip (Custom not puk). Attached a list of what’s been previously done to vector your thoughts.

Next question. More importantly.
How are you guys holding a brass punch and hammering in that tiny area?! Photos of body position are welcome! It was hard enough getting in there then to find some sealant/JB weld that needed to be removed took most of my morning. I looked at LEW but the photos aren’t helping me figure out the gymnastics portion 🤣


Lunch and coffee break for now.
Thanks again for all the help folks. If anyone has the Vulcan/Travis signal I may need it!
You guys ever wander through Memphis I got bourbon with your name on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
While trying to determine the proper body position to get the pump out I went ahead and swapped the fuel filter.... lots of brown particulate was jammed up in there. 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️
So even though the tanks were previously refurbished with POR-15...it would appear I have a bigger problem.
I’m going to turn my car over to a pro at this point. Soliciting opinions for a tank and fuel pump job. Closest/best mechanic used to be in Nashville but he went to Chicago. So far he’s the only one I’d trust my car too. Along those lines...Any recs on shipping outfits while we’re on the subject?
 

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I pull out the boot floor and lay an old couch pillow on the cross member for my knees and feet. Then I use a 1.5" thick x 36" x 36" piece of foam over the top of the engine; along with a slick sheet of particle board to slide my chest and belly around on. Even though I'm a mid-40s, medium build, 170 lbs half-Asian fellow; it is still a yoga challenge.
 

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To twist the lock ring use GM tool: KENT MOORE J-35731 FUEL SENDING UNIT WRENCH DP331

When working at the front of the engine, I use a wooden gurney and couple of bridges to support my chest. You MUST NEVER lean on the intake manifold (they crack too easily). IMO, taking the rear boot floor is a grand PITA.
Although I never pulled out the f/pump this way, but, I imagine that this method may be quite effective.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
MrDangerus you are a godsend! Thanks very much!!
That JB weld is some nasty stuff.
Even so I fear my tanks are shot but hopefully this will tell the story when the pump is out.
 

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If the tanks are rusty inside you have to consider pulling both of them to either refurbish them or replace them. To do that you have to consider pulling the motor or at the very least taking the top off of it. Still difficult to do the tanks. So now you are pulling the motor, you have to consider what work can, could, should be done to it while it's out. A major factor is the mileage on the car. At the very least resealing it, maybe doing a valve job, belts, water pump, you can see where this is going. This can get very expensive very quickly. One thing you can do is clean the pumps up, change the fuel filter and hope it lasts for a while. If you don't have a fuel smell in the engine bay the tanks aren't leaking (or at least not much) and you can delay doing the tanks. Maybe wait till winter or maybe the problem stabilizes and you can live with pulling the pumps every year and changing filters to keep you going. Point is, right now, you have a choice but you need to make it BEFORE you get started. Once you commit to pulling the tanks it gets expensive.
David Teitelbaum
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Well gents. I thank you all for your help and guidance on this journey.

Good news. I have found the problem.

Bad news. The problem is rust.

Initially I was excited as it appeared the crossover tube was the source of rust that had choked out the fuel pump. This would’ve been an easy fix. Then my borescope arrived and I discovered the tanks (that were sealed with POR-15 10-12 years ago) are rusted quite badly on the inside top to bottom.
Further bad news. There are nearly zero people interested in working on a Lotus Esprit anywhere near Memphis TN. I’d love to do it myself but I don’t posses the tools, time and space to dig this deep into the car. I’ve got two potential leads on mechanics but they’re rare and busy.
So that said. I’m entertaining a lot of ideas right now.

1-Do as Mr Teitelbaum suggests and fill the tanks with some vinegar solution or muriatic to stabilize the rust as best I can, drain and drop in a new pump and see how long we can make it as the rest of the car is good because Jim Knowles and DaveS4S made it a solid machine.

2-Hope one of you fine gents knows a guy somewhere within 10 hours of me willing to pull and re seal the motor and drop some fresh aluminum tanks in for me and bulletproof the vacuum system while we’re at it.

3-If you are looking for a winter project make me a reasonable offer and I’ll chalk this up to a bad idea in my course of life decisions and just be glad I got to own my dream car for a little while. Some day I’ll have a bigger shop with a lift and hoist and get another. This being the far least desirable option however I won’t sacrifice being a good dad and husband for a car.

Again. Many thanks to an awesome community for the excellent help in troubleshooting my car. It’s been a learning experience and I will value it.
 

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Wow

I was under the illusion that the later 4 cyl Esprit fuel tanks were not as susceptible to tank rust as the earlier cars.

I would do this work for you but I dont see how it would be worth it to bring it back to Atlanta and I would have to charge a good bit to be worth my while.....also I have not done it before so it is a bit of an unknown.

I wonder if there is somebody in Nashville?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Erik I appreciate it. There was a phenom in Nashville but he has since moved on. I’m holding out hope that I might can get on Jason Pannell (Alpharetta) or John Welch’s (Midwest ish) calendar. If not I may get real stupid and send it to Claudius on the West Coast. Though I hear he’s a bit pricey? I truly love this car.
But sometimes you gotta remember discretion can be the better part of valor, learn and press to the next target.
 

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Erik I appreciate it. There was a phenom in Nashville but he has since moved on. I’m holding out hope that I might can get on Jason Pannell (Alpharetta) or John Welch’s (Midwest ish) calendar. If not I may get real stupid and send it to Claudius on the West Coast. Though I hear he’s a bit pricey? I truly love this car.
But sometimes you gotta remember discretion can be the better part of valor, learn and press to the next target.
Pannell has closed his doors as of a few weeks ago. Controlled Motors was recommended to me by him for tuning and ECU work and the shop owner, Brandon, has worked on numerous Lotus cars over the years. Mainly custom turbo stuff, but none the less, I had no complaints with his shop. Also fairly decently priced. Good luck.
 
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