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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All!

The boys and I have been working on the car, here's a quick summary...

Custom fab stainless steel RH fuel tank
Refinished the LH tank
Custom chargecooler (modified generic one from ebay)
Custom fab square aluminum header tanks
Green-dot pulley from SJ plus aux pulley swap
Blue belt and tensioner bearing from JAE
Bosch (Corvette) fuel pump (fuel pulsator deleted)
Electric chargecooler pump conversion
Throttle jack delete (EBPV was already removed)
Stainless shift linkage ball joints from midwestcontrol.com
Headlight motors repaired with bushings from local HW store
Sorted out a bunch of issues with pressure and vac hoses and sensors
Removed throttle pedal stop bolt, adjusted cable and upper-limit stop plate
Adjusted brake pedal linkage, limit bolt & switch for minimal pedal height (just happens to be perfectly even with throttle pedal...cool!)

I'll try to post some pics over the weekend.

We put everything back together and the car fired up as if it had just been parked overnight...Awsome!
It runs MUCH better than before, feels a lot stronger and power delivery is noticeably more progressive. It doesn't hurt that my knee is no longer wedged between the console and steering wheel anymore either.

I do have a few issues tho...
:confused: There is a white 8 pin (4x2) plug over the RH fuel tank that doesn't appear to have a mate - should there be an unused connector?

:confused: Similarly, there is a sub harness in the same area with 4 or 5 spade connectors that don't seem to go to anything (I have the sub-harness for the coolant sensors all connected, this is another one).

Almost everything else works but I did notice that if I leave it sitting and idling the temp gauge rises over 90 and I don't hear the radiator fans kick on. I'm not sure at what temp they're supposed to turn on. They do activate if I put the ECU in diagnostic mode.
The AC compressor doesn't seem to turn on but it's possible that it didn't work before I took delivery of the car.
The fuel gauge is pegged (full), I'm hoping that the sensor plug got disconnected but I haven't pulled the LH cover to check it yet.
The ECU shows code 26, I'll be doing some diags this weekend.
Cold idle is very rough, warm idle is better but still shakes the car at a stoplight, not sure if that's normal. RPM seems about right at around 1100.
With the engine at temperature the oil pressure gauge reads just a little above the red line at idle...I think this is normal but I'd feel better if someone can confirm.
The park-brake and ABS lights are on solid, brakes work fine, I'll troubleshoot this over the weekend too.

Any advice on the above issues would be greatly appreciated...particularly about the mystery connectors, that one is really bugging me.
 

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Not sure what year/model you are referring to bu on my s4 I just did a complete engine rebuild and had the tanks out and don't recall any unused plugs. Maybe post some picts of them?

As for the temp issue, I had the same and found that I just didn't have enough coolant in. The temp sensor for the gauge was most likely seeing the temp from the steam and not the water. The other temp sensor (the one that controls the fans etc) was not seeing a high enough temp to cycle the fans on. Do the fans come on when you turn on the a/c? Or, if you have espritmon you can cycle on the fans to test.

As for the oil pressure, I have always had it show very low at idle. I changed gauges, sensors etc and when i did the recent rebuild, the oil pump was replaced. It still shows the same. So I know for a fact the oil pressure is good, they all seem to have the low pressure indication at idle warm.

By the way, take a look here for some good error code 26 pointers; http://www.lotusespritworld.com/EGuides/EMaintenance/freescan.html
 

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There is an unused white nylon connector on the passenger side where the ECU and harness mate on all the cars I've worker on. In every Esprit I've worked on there is also a branch of the harness over the same fuel tank that is unused. On pre-SE 89's and the SE's I've seen there should be three large connectors - a blue, a yellow, and a white and one smaller yellow and black which plug into the wiring array coming out of the rear boot. There are a couple of round connectors (black) and some other stuff which is pretty self-evident - the three connectors for the CDI array, etc. Here is a picture of the three large and one small....
 

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Stainless shift linkage ball joints from midwestcontrol.com

Is this something intended to upgrade, or just replacing yours worn out?
 

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Wingless Wonder
1988 Esprit Turbo
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There is an unused white nylon connector on the passenger side where the ECU and harness mate on all the cars I've worker on.
Hi Tom,

The connectors you pictured all hook up to mating connectors in my '88 Bosch car. Do you have a picture of the unused one?

I'm starting to believe that Lotus incorporated wiring for Bosch FI into the main harnesses, when the Stevens cars debuted. ('86 and '87 G-cars had "add-on" harnesses for the FI). It seems that when GM MPFI was implemented, these unused wires and connectors remained until the next time the harnesses were revised.

EDIT: Did it look like the pic below?
 

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I don't have a picture Atwell but that looks like the unused connector I was referring to....

There is also a "branch" of the harness that we usually find tucked behind the ECU - in a couple of cars I have found it bundled up with tape and with a hand-applied label marked "not used". I have always suspected that it was something like what you described - a harness adapted from something else which originally had some purpose for those connections. I have never worked on a G car or a Bosch injected car so I am unfamiliar with the harnesses on those cars.
 

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Wingless Wonder
1988 Esprit Turbo
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I don't have a picture Atwell but that looks like the unused connector I was referring to....
Unfortunately, that's not a 4 x 2 connector...sorry Pete.
 

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You are going to have to tackle these problems one-by-one. I would get a mechanical gauge on the oil pressure, you may be OK, just the electric one reading low. Make sure you got all of the air out of the cooling system. Rebleed the brakes. See what the static pressure is on the A/C system. If it is less than 60 psi you don't have enough refrigerant and that's why the compressor won't run. If the fuel gauge is pegged a plug is not disconnected. Either the sender wire is grounded or the float is stuck. Disconnect the sender wire at the gauge, it should go to empty.
David Teitelbaum
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Stainless shift linkage ball joints from midwestcontrol.com

Is this something intended to upgrade, or just replacing yours worn out?
Just replacing the existing corroded & worn ones. The bearings in the translator were good but the holes were ovaled out pretty badly. I drilled them and pressed in some bronze bushings. I also put a collared bushing on the opposite end of the linkage where it mounts to the transmission bracket. Seemed to tighten up the shifter a bit but I plan to pull out the shift lever mechanism at some point and do some re-engineering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My car is a 91 SE.
I looked through the wiring diagrams but didn't see anything that looked like it, or any grouping of similar-colored wires. :shrug:
This is the plug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here's my coolant header tanks. I was trying to figure out a way to mount the sensors, I came up with using a compression fitting for plastic tubing. I put the sensor in a small piece of the tubing for isolation, seemed to work pretty well and it'll never leak plus it can be disassembled if it ever needs to be cleaned.

...the goofy chargecooler tubing is temporary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Quick update in case someone runs across this thread looking for information about the engine bay plugs (I hate it when I find a post relating to a problem I'm having and read through it only to find there was no solution)...

The 4x2 connector and unused spade connectors are apparently just that, unused. I've driven the car about 1500 miles and everything is working.
No codes, fans cycle on/off correctly, AC works great after a recharge.

The code 26 was a loose secondary injector resistor.

The fuel gauge was pegged because the connector on the sender had come undone.

The brake warning light was on because the pressure-warning connector on the ABS pump was loose (my car has a custom 2-sensor setup installed by a PO).

Not 100% sure about why the fans didn't activate, never found a cause but the issue went away. I guess it could have been air in the system after the timing belt change.

I reset the ECU and IAC, the idle improved significantly, but I'm still not really happy with it. I have Freescan working now and the IAC counts are a little high (60-70). This weekend I'll try adjusting the throttle stop screw to get the IAC down and see if there's any improvement.

Thanks again to everyone for your help and suggestions!
 
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