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Integrator
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2,764 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
S4s UPDATES & IMPROVEMENTS

OK, many of you probably took a wager how soon I start modifying my new car.
Yep, here we go...
Improvements and upgrades, of course, why not... I'm not going to go Ape-ballistic like on my 88"ET, though.
Who won the bet? LOL.

FYI: Struts-hold open, rear hatch
On Amazon, price $22 Prime/pair

Search for:
BOXI 2pcs Gas Charged Universal Lift Supports Struts Shocks Springs Dampers Extended Length 19.70 inches, Compressed Length 11.75 inches, 75 lbs Force,10mm Ball Sockets 6938

If you have a glass hatch and/or wing you need 90 lbs force due to an additional weight.
 

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Integrator
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2,764 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Have you looked under your chargecooler, Lately? Well, I did!
And... I found a surprise waiting!

One of the vacuum/boost lines came off the plastic Tee. I noticed, that once upon a time, someone replaced a short section of the line between one way valve and the manifold Tee with silicone hose!
Silicone has a bad habit of swelling and getting mushy (what-t-a technical lingo!), and eventually disintegrates in a presence of the oil vapours.

Quick fix: replace any silicone vac. line with rubber and add mini tie wraps or metal clips to prevent slipping off under boost.

Whilst the CC is off, a nice thick layer of Thermo-Tec insulation should be attached to the bottom to minimize thermal absorption of the engine heat by the CC.
 

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Wingless Wonder
1988 Esprit Turbo
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5,650 Posts
I like the 'old school' photo labeling!

Time to replace ALL of the vacuum tubing on that 20+year old car...
 

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#2 Very important = MAP sensor line. Cracks in rubber elbow common, leads to real running problems, idles ok, but does not run well under any load.

#1 very important, increases fuel pressure with boost! Line from intake manifold internal pressure rail to fuel pressure regulator is very important, as is the one way check valve between that and the crank case breather. Valve must be the correct direction to prevent boost loss at fuel pressure regulator!
 

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249 Posts
#2 Very important = MAP sensor line. Cracks in rubber elbow common, leads to real running problems, idles ok, but does not run well under any load.

#1 very important, increases fuel pressure with boost! Line from intake manifold internal pressure rail to fuel pressure regulator is very important, as is the one way check valve between that and the crank case breather. Valve must be the correct direction to prevent boost loss at fuel pressure regulator!
I've had experience with #1. I had trouble maintaining full boost and found #1 disconnected. It made a big difference when fixed. The engine was a lot noisier with it disconnected as well, sounded like valves tapping.
 

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Just unscrew the plastic ends and transfer the connectors from your old ones. Fast and easy!
Sounded like a plan, thought i would give it a whirl, but......Amazon wont ship those to Canada! others no problem, those no :scratchhead:As you can see we pay a LOT more for things up here :crazyeyes

[ame]https://www.amazon.ca/BOXI-Tailgate-Supports-2002-2006-0K2FB-62620B/dp/B016IP2NG4/ref=sr_1_138?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1516136337&sr=1-138&keywords=BOXI[/ame]
 

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Premium Member
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358 Posts
Are those hoses/connections visible with the CC in place? Pete's comment about 'sounds like valves tapping' is something I'm hearing.
 

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They are somewhat visible, but if you just loosen the chargecooler mounting bolts, grounding strap, and the intake silicone hoses, you can easily swing the chargecooler out of the way without draining the coolant.


An intake manifold leak at that location (the rail for the MAP sensor, IAC valve, and crankcase breather) definitely sounds like valve clatter.

 

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Glutton For Punishment
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248 Posts
I've had experience with #1. I had trouble maintaining full boost and found #1 disconnected. It made a big difference when fixed. The engine was a lot noisier with it disconnected as well, sounded like valves tapping.
Under boost, that is the sound of detonation!
 

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Integrator
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