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Looks like 350deg F max?
1278360
 

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Discussion Starter · #202 · (Edited)
Esprit Rear Hub Lower Link Stud Removal

Here is a great article on this subject: Esprit Hub Carriers
Just want to add a couple observations.

Before hacking through the hard alloy (!) stud and ruining your hub, you may try this trick..
Beware of using WD40 which is totally ineffective for this application.
Instead, mix the following oils in equal amounts: Marvel Mystery Oil, ATF, Power Steering Fluid, Oil of Evergreen and 1 ml of Shaklee Basic-H surfactant.
Mix a small amount of this potion with Acetone, 50/50, and apply with an eyedropper to both ends and the middle section of the stud, as well as the split spacer bushing crack. Repeat this application several times a day for 2 days. On the 3-rd day, place a stack of thick washers, with I.D. hole larger than the split spacer OD. Washers have to rest on the hub. Do not attempt to separate the stud from the bushing at this time. Install a 1/2 UNF, grade 8 nut and apply a brute force to the nut using impact gun. You may be able to pull out the stud together with the split spacer bushing. As it is coming out, use more washers and a large socket as spacers.
Over 25 years the stud fused permanently to the split spacer and it is impossible to separate them.
New stud, split spacer and copious amount of Ni-Graphite anti-seize are required to complete the project.
 

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The Dreadful Rear Hub Lower Link Stud Removal
Heaven forbid that it would happen but if the hub carrier casting was cracked do you think it could be TIG weld repaired?
 

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Discussion Starter · #204 · (Edited)
Heaven forbid that it would happen but if the hub carrier casting was cracked do you think it could be TIG weld repaired?
No, I would not recommend such repair. It is a safety item. In such case the hub must be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #205 · (Edited)
Esprit A/C belt replacement

A/C belt replacement on our cars is pretty involving (if done in-situ). Pivot point nut access is easy, but the adjustment nut is PITA to access.
10" long 3/8" thin shaft extension and a magnetic socket saves the day.
Tim is right, it is easier to cut the belt. Saves a ton of effort and frustration. Use Kevlar 1/2 x 32" belt as a replacement, it will last a long time and does not stretch much.

Beware: belts may vary in length, all depends on manufacturer (differences in tolerances country to country, etc?)
 

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A utility knife makes removal of any belt quick and easy. Don't make it harder than it needs to be. Then fast-forward to installation. There's enough involved there to complain about, without making removal difficult.

Regards,
Tim Engel
 

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Discussion Starter · #207 · (Edited)
POWER STEERING/VACUUM PUMP BOLTS REPLACEMENT

To access bolts A & B, the left engine support vertical heat shield has to be removed.
Next, use a 6 mm Allen tip socket to loosen bolts A and B. To avoid the head stripping, do not use "ball end " Allen tips. Bolt B can be accessed from the rear using an 8" long thin shaft 3/8" extension held parallel to the exhaust header bottom.

Bolt C is a nightmare. To gain access to this one, the pump pulley has to be removed (4 x 10 mm hex head bolts).
To facilitate the v-belt tension adjustment and avoid pulley removal in the future, replace Allen head bolts A,B,C,D with an undersized 11 mm or 12 mm hex head bolts, which can be easily turned with modified (ground thin) ring spanner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #208 ·
[ NO ] SPACERS at the FRONT WHEELS

One may get away with wider front tyres, like 235/40/17, or even 245/40/17 on '95 and later cars, but wide tyres +spacers will cause rubbing, hard/erratic steering and premature bearing wear.


 

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Might be of interest, along these lines.
 

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That is really interesting. The Caterhams handling must be something. Are they even sold here in the US? Answered my question - they are - interesting the pictures of the car at the dealer do not have the rocker arm front suspension.

I was a little surprised the driver reviews were not more glowing. Maybe the old car handled great too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #211 · (Edited)
Delco-Moraine PowerMaster-3 ABS brake system maintenance


ABS system on Esprits has a bad rap, but do you remember when did you service it last time?
Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air, even if not used. Anything higher than 2% water content asks for a change. 4% is not acceptable in our cars.

You should make it a habit to purge at least the pump and reservoir annually. Full bleeding job is recommended, if you want to have a well functioning system.

First, install Speed Bleeders at all 4 calipers. They make bleeding brakes one person job! http://speedbleeder.com/

Lift the rear and take the wheels off.
Siphon off old fluid from the reservoir and re-fill with Pentosin Super Dot 4 fresh fluid. Replace the cover tightly. Do NOT touch the brake pedal at this time.
Install a piece of translucent PVC hose over the Speed Bleeder nipple at the right rear caliper and keep the other end inside a small transparent container to catch dirty fluid.
Turn on the ignition key and listen to the pump pressurizing the system. When it stops, turn off the ignition key.
! DO NOT touch the brake pedal, yet!
Get out of the car and open the Speed Bleeder valve by 1/2-3/4 turn.
Depress brake pedal 3 times all the way to the floor. White "milky" fluid will drain into container. That is your ABS pump fluid with suspended water droplets. Repeat until clean fluid starts coming out of the bleeder. Close tight the Speed bleeder.

Switch your attention to the left rear caliper and follow the same procedure.
WARNING: You can depress the pedal only 5-6 times without running out of fluid, so don't forget to replenish it periodically.
Add fluid to the reservoir and continue bleeding the front.

Repeat this procedure every 12-15 months.
Best buy:
Large 5 liter container of Pentosin Super Dot 4 at Advanced Auto Parts, Part # 1204204

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do you recommend a specific brand of speed bleeders?
 

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Discussion Starter · #213 ·

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Discussion Starter · #216 · (Edited)
Can I assume you mean for your S4s? and if so, what size did you use for the front Brembos?

-Rich
'95 S4s ...SHF63000
'79 JPS #040
Rich,

It's been a while...
I think (?) they were Speed Bleeders PN# SB1010 or Russell 639560 (Amazon)

I have sold my Brembos and replaced w/AP racing CP5200 calipers, which use SB1010 also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #219 · (Edited)
FYI, S4s specs sheets,
except:
Power output numbers are mistakenly copied from S4 spec sheet, not S4S...


 

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Discussion Starter · #220 ·
OILS for LOTUS ESPRIT (VINTAGE) ENGINES

I called Mobil One's tech line today. They don't recommend using Mobil
One V-Twin. That oil is formulated for air cooled engines with friction
modifiers for use with clutches that run in oil. Also, Harleys have
ball or roller main bearings not babbit bearings, like our cars.

They recommended using Mobil One 15W50 which has 1300ppm of zinc and
1200 ppm of phosphorus plus the corrosion inhibitors desirable in a
water cooled engine. They told me it's available in 5 quart jugs that
are cheaper than the per quart pricing of Mobil V-Twin.

At Walmart it goes for $27.42 per 5 quart bottle, whereas Amazon is
charging over $47.00. Napa is selling 1 quart bottles for $5.99.

Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil 15W-50, 5 Quart - Walmart.com

I just checked Redline and their performance synthetic oil I've been
using. They also claim a 1200 ppm of zinc and phosphorus plus 600 ppm of
molybdenum, but it costs twice what Mobil one does.
 
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