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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #202 · (Edited)
The Dreadful Rear Hub Lower Link Stud Removal


Above, there is a very good article on the subject, however the OP omitted couple of important details.

First of all, WD40 is good for water-proofing leather gloves or shoes only. Totally ineffective for this application.
Instead, I have mixed (in equal amounts) Marvel Mystery Oil, ATF oil, Power Steering Fluid, Oil of Evergreen and 1 ml of Shaklee Basic-H surfactant.
Next, I mixed this potion with Acetone, 50/50, and applied it with the eyedropper to the ends and middle of the stud, as well as the split spacer bushing. I repeated it every day for 2 days. On the 3-rd day, I have placed 6 thick washers, which had I.D. larger than the split spacer and installed tall 1/2 UNF nut. Next a brut force was applied to the nut using an impact gun. This time I was able to pull out the stud... together with the split spacer bush. Over 25 years the stud fused itself permanently to the split spacer. New stud, split spacer and copious amount of Ni-Graphite antiseize were required.
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #204 · (Edited)
Heaven forbid that it would happen but if the hub carrier casting was cracked do you think it could be TIG weld repaired?
No, I would not recommend such repair. It is a safety item. In such case the hub must be replaced.
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #205 · (Edited)
Esprit A/C belt replacement

A/C belt replacement on our cars is pretty involving (if done in-situ). Pivot point nut access is easy, but the adjustment nut is PITA.
Long 3/8" 10" thin shaft extension and a magnetic socket saves the day.
Tim is right, it is easier to cut the belt. Saves a ton of effort and frustration. Use Kevlar 1/2 x 32" belt as a replacement, it will last longer and does not stretch.

Beware: belts may vary in length, depends on manufacturer (differences in tolerancing country to country?)
 

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A utility knife makes removal of any belt quick and easy. Don't make it harder than it needs to be. Then fast-forward to installation. There's enough involved there to complain about, without making removal difficult.

Regards,
Tim Engel
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #207 · (Edited)
Yep,
honeymoon is over, I'm into the power steering pump bolts, or vacuum pump on some earlier cars.

To access bolts A & B, the forward engine mount heat shield has to be partially removed.
Use 6mm Allen socket to slacken bolts A and B. "B" can be accessed from rear w/ 8" thin shaft 3/8" extension held parallel to the bottom of the exhaust header.

Bolt "C" is a stinker. To gain a straight shot access to this one, pump pulley has to be removed (4x 10mm head bolts).
To avoid the same debacle in the future, replace this Allen head bolt with a undersized hex head bolt (12mm hex), which can be easily turned with small ring spanner and won't require pulley removal.
In addition, I have replaced bolt "A" with M8 hex (also 12mm) head bolt.
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Discussion Starter · #208 ·
[ NO ] SPACERS at the FRONT WHEELS

One may get away with wider front tyres, like 235/40/17, or even 245/40/17 on '95 and later cars, but wide tyres +spacers will cause rubbing, hard/erratic steering and premature bearing wear.


 

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That is really interesting. The Caterhams handling must be something. Are they even sold here in the US? Answered my question - they are - interesting the pictures of the car at the dealer do not have the rocker arm front suspension.

I was a little surprised the driver reviews were not more glowing. Maybe the old car handled great too.
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #211 · (Edited)
Delco-Moraine PowerMaster 3 ABS brake system maintenance


ABS system on our cars has a bad rap, but do you even remember when did you clean it up last time?
Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air, even if not used. Anything higher than 1% is asking for change. 2% is not acceptable in our cars.

You should make it a habit to purge at least the pump and reservoir annually. Full bleed job is better. Yeah, I now, it is PITA, but you'll have a well functioning system.

First, install Speed Bleeders at all 4 calipers. They make bleeding brakes a snap!

Lift the rear and take the wheels off.
Siphon off the old fluid from reservoir and re-fill with Pentosin Super Dot 4 fresh fluid. Replace the cover tightly. Do NOT touch the brake pedal at all, (at this time).
At the right rear caliper install a piece of translucent PVC hose over the Speed Bleeder nipple and keep the other end inside a small Coke bottle.
Turn on the ignition and listen to the pump pressurizing the system. When it stops, turn off the ignition key.
! DO NOT touch the brake pedal, yet!
Get out of the car and open up the Speed Bleeder by 1/2-3/4 turn.
Fully depress brake pedal to the floor 3 times, you'll see a white "milk" in the Coke bottle. That is your ABS pump water deposit.
Close tight the Speed bleeder.

Switch your attention to the left rear caliper following the same procedure.
Note: You can depress the pedal 6 times without running out of fluid in the main reservoir.

Add fluid to the reservoir and bleed front calipers.

Repeat in 12 months.
Best buy:
Large 5 liters container of Pentosin Super Dot 4 will cost you $49.99 at Advanced Auto Parts, Part # 1204204

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do you recommend a specific brand of speed bleeders?
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #213 ·

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #216 · (Edited)
Can I assume you mean for your S4s? and if so, what size did you use for the front Brembos?

-Rich
'95 S4s ...SHF63000
'79 JPS #040
Rich,

It's been a while...
I think (?) they were Speed Bleeders PN# SB1010 or Russell 639560 (Amazon)

I have sold my Brembos and replaced w/AP racing CP5200 calipers, which use SB1010 also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #219 · (Edited)
FYI, S4s specs sheets, except:
Power output specs are from S4 not S4S...


 

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Discussion Starter · #220 ·
OILS for LOTUS ESPRIT (VINTAGE) ENGINES

I called Mobil One's tech line today. They don't recommend using Mobil
One V-Twin. That oil is formulated for air cooled engines with friction
modifiers for use with clutches that run in oil. Also, Harleys have
ball or roller main bearings not babbit bearings, like our cars.

They recommended using Mobil One 15W50 which has 1300ppm of zinc and
1200 ppm of phosphorus plus the corrosion inhibitors desirable in a
water cooled engine. They told me it's available in 5 quart jugs that
are cheaper than the per quart pricing of Mobil V-Twin.

At Walmart it goes for $27.42 per 5 quart bottle, whereas Amazon is
charging over $47.00. Napa is selling 1 quart bottles for $5.99.

Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil 15W-50, 5 Quart - Walmart.com

I just checked Redline and their performance synthetic oil I've been
using. They also claim a 1200 ppm of zinc and phosphorus plus 600 ppm of
molybdenum, but it costs twice what Mobil one does.
 
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