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Wingless Wonder
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Just to clarify, when you say just crack the heater control to keep flow going thru the heater matrix. The 5 o'clock position on an S4s is wide open heat. So I assume you mean just off the cooling range into heating zone?
On our '88 the temp control OFF position is at 6 o'clock. Counterclockwise turns on the heat.

So if your S4s is different, just move it a little past the OFF position.

Send a picture!??!
 

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Wingless Wonder
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Yes.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.



MrD's second pic is where I run my heat control, always. Turn it clockwise until it stops (NO FORCING!) then CCW a little. This provides a little coolant flow into the heater matrix and prevents it from clogging.

PS: I find that the A/C won't freeze up as readily if I apply the same motions to my Air Conditioning knob.
 

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Integrator
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2,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #145
Racing Gasoline

Sunoco offers street legal unleaded 100 octane fuel for any performance vehicles. If you are in California you can find it as Sunoco SS100 while the other 49 states can use Sunoco 260 GT. Both of these fuels contain 10% ethanol to attain their street legal status. For drivers looking for the best performance on the street and on the track this 10% ethanol will allow for slightly better performance. Ethanol contains oxygen in its molecule which helps increase the efficiency of your engine and can account for about 1% better performance over a non-ethanol fuel.

For pre-CAT cars this is the best deal:
https://petroleumservicecompany.com/sunoco-standard-110-octane-race-fuel-54-gallon-drum/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsvzfodL33gIVlrjACh3VVwo9EAQYBCABEgKRQ_D_BwE
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Integrator
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Discussion Starter #146 (Edited)
Esprit Hi-flo exhaust system, 3"

Finally, I did it and I'm very happy. Removed some dead weight, improved flow and sound note.
Only 13 lbs (vs 33 lbs OE).
Note: Nuts at the turbo flange were... 11/32" and not 17mm !

David Vizard says the 3" would be more appropriate for the 910 turbo.
IMO, 3" systemt could be easily fabricated of the bits from eBay and Amazon.
FYI: Magnaflow 3" in/out polished muffler number is PN# 14619.
Also, you may need HEDMAN PN# 21156 3in Ball & Socket
Word of explanation about OEM(?) CAT delete pipes.
They are built to mate to the OE muffler flange. To compensate for the EBPV deletion, 1.5" is added.
They are stainless steel grade (unknown), 2.3mm wall, 2.5" OD, 2.3" ID.
2.3" ID should be considered a serious choke point in the system. Similar pipe, but 3"OD would have much favourable 2.8 ID.
However, after careful measurements, it became obvious why Lotus decided to use smaller 2.5" exh system. The Cosworth flange on the (small) turbo is too small to tightly seal 3" flared pipe end.

If you are making your own pipes, use S/steel 310 or 310L (NOT 304!).

DO YOU know any shop or company able to mandrel bend 3" 14g tubes at a reasonable price?

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter #147 (Edited)
Eliminating ECU interference

Supplement to my post #79 of this thread

When you work at the left side tank top area, you may consider moving forward the ECU bracket to eradicate an interference between inboard corner of the ECU and your air duct.

Few Lotus engineers forgot that two solid objects are reluctant to occupy the same space simultaneously!
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter #148 (Edited)
The exhaust looks identical (in form and quality) to the Micklewright batch that Players Forsythe made up. I would recommend either a heat shield or material as it sits a lot closer to the rear bumper and the exit end of the muffler gets VERY hot and can melt things in a hurry (ask me how i know :facepalm)
Have you snapped any pictures of the damage? Perhaps Dei hi-temp wrap would mitigate this condition? What did YOU do to remedy the problem?
 

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Perhaps an oversize stainless tip would help keeping it cooler? I may find out soon.
Apologies, i didn't realize there was question i hadn't answered:facepalm I purchased a roll of high temp racing reflective heat material that has an industrial adhesive on the one side (its exceptionally strong, so correct cutting and placement was key (dont ask how i know :scratchhead:) I'll snap a picture of the material later today but unfortunately i moved up (?) to a V8 so the S4 is no longer with me.
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter #152
Bumper at the tip end is not the only area scorched. Even with OE CAT/muffler the paint on the underside side above the edge of the bumper gets damaged.
Thick Thermo-Tec blanket is a must. Bumper surface above the hot tip received a layer of reflective gold foil.
 

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I covered the panel with gold foil to reflect heat from the new SS exhaust system, and while I was at it, I refinished the muffler support/gearchange translator bracket.





Bob


Bob,

Was the gold foil tape also from Thermo Tec? Also.... I noticed that depending on the exhaust tape, they either are rated at 1800 or 2000 degrees. Which one did you buy? I think this may be my next project after I install a new thermostat.

Thanks,

Dom


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Dom:
Actually, I bought the gold foil sheeting on eBay. Not only covered the underside of the truck compartment where there was once some tattered aluminum sheeting, but also the underside of the engine cover where the same factory applied aluminum sheeting was coming apart. The claimed heat rating is 700 degrees, and it has worked extremely well for me in both applications.

Where in Bergen County?

Bob
 

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S4s,S4,SE UPDATES & IMPROVEMENTS

Thanks for the info Bob. I’ll check out eBay for the foil. It’s definitely a nice upgrade for the car without a lot of manual labor.

I’m near Paramus by the Garden State Plaza. It’s nice having access to all the major highways like the Parkway, Route 4, 17, and 80....but it tends to get congested.

Dom


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Dom:
I also used the same foil to replace the aluminum foil that had covered the underside of the engine cover. The Lotus foil turned to flakes after time, and this is a nice improvement.

Going to be up your way at the end of June. Bought my 1st Corvette back in '79 at Malcolm Konner on Rte. 17.


Bob
 

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