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I didn't do the actual cutting, so my recollection is a bit fuzzy, but the routing is direct. I remember having a conversation about this with the shop that did the work, and I seem to recall they're saying that's what they'd done.

Twin
 

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Evil Twin said:
I didn't do the actual cutting, so my recollection is a bit fuzzy, but the routing is direct. I remember having a conversation about this with the shop that did the work, and I seem to recall they're saying that's what they'd done.

Twin
thanks for the reply.
 

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My new seat/harness setup

I recently fitted a set of Reverie seats, Sector111 bar, and Schroth harness. I'm pretty happy with the results, and after trying various options for the sub strap anchors, I have what seems like a safe setup. Here are some shots and brief descriptions:

First, I wasn't satisfied with attaching the sub straps to the under side of the seat rail for reasons already discussed: the small size of the bolts holding the seats in. So, I went the same root as Sleepless and had Colin at Cantrell Motorsports fit an aluminum plate (3/16" I believe) to the under side of the tub. (See shots of Sleepless' car above to see what this looks like).

We started off using eye bolts as anchors for both the laps and subs, but the length of eyebolt + clip-in buckle on the Schroth Profi II 6H harness is greater than the space between the floor and the seat rail, so even under tension, the subs never would come taught to the anchors. Thanks to Joe and Matt at HMS motorsport (http://www.hmsmotorsport.com/) for sending me the bolt-in version of the buckle (aka part "B24") that requires less space. Here is what they look like bolted in:

b24-2.jpg

I'd like to take this opportunity to thank Matt and Joe at HMS and Colin Cantrell. They really went "above and beyond" by sending me various belts and fasteners to try until we found the right solution.

I selected the Reverie seats because they are very light, allow the proper angles for the harness setup, provide much better lateral support than the stock seats, fit me great, and look fantastic in the car! :D Even without padding, I have sat for hours in these seats without being uncomfortable.

We had to widen the slot in the seat for the subs a bit to get them to 4 inches. Also, I was worried that the sharp edges on the seat would cut into the webbing on the harness, so my wife and I designed and sewed up a sleeve to protect the belt from the seat edges. Here are some shots of the sleeve cut out, fully assembled, and inserted into the seat. We used a tough "bullet proof" cloth for the sleeve and a stiff plastic piping around the edge to keep it from slipping down through the seat. This worked very well and inserts solidly into the slot.

b24-3.jpg

b24-4.jpg

Also, as discussed above, there is a sharp metal angle that the right hand, drivers side, lap belt rubs against due to the fact that the anchor on that side of the seat has to be back behind the seat. I ground this down to make it less sharp and intend to make another sleeve to protect the webbing there as well.

I am using the "race" harness bar from Sector111. Here is a shot of the drivers side setup. The car looks so cool without the passenger seat, I'm tempted to just leave it out :).


full setup-1.jpg

full setup-2.jpg

Next steps and additional safety mods planned:

1. Get a HANS and check fitment. The shoulder straps currently hit me just about right without modifying the strap holes, but once I get the HANS, we'll evaluate if the shoulder holes need to be closer together. Given the Schroth instructions, it is likely we will have to widen the holes so that the straps are closer to the recommended 4" apart at the bar without rubbing on the inside edge of the shoulder strap holes.
2. Shoulder pad. The only part of the seat that doesn't fit me perfectly is the upper shoulder area. The harness tends to pull me backwards, arching my back. I have mocked up a "wedge" pad that is about 10" high, 18" wide, and 2.5" thick at the top that not only is more comfortable, but will help create some space behind my head for the helmet and hans, hopefully avoiding the issues that Sleepless mentioned above. I plan to use confor-foam for the pad.
3. Fire supression system.
4. Electric cutoff.
5. Tow hooks.
6. Looked at the roll cage from hypersports, but it's too costly and too heavy (50lbs!). Maybe a petty bar??

I've never driven a car while in a harness, so this will take some getting used to, but I can't wait to try it out at the track. Maybe now I won't be honking my horn on sharp corners while trying to brace myself using the wheel :). Also, I've always liked the feel of hard breaking when riding as a passenger in a harness... so looking forward to that as a driver.
 

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It's astounding how much difference a harness, when properly fitted and correctly tightened, makes. Even with the stock seats, it's awfully secure.

Twin
 

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It will be great to feel more secure. Plus, I'm really looking forward to the increased "connection to the car" as I get closer to driving at the limit.

I see that there is also a bolt-on part for the Reveries that provides side bolsters at the helmet level... might be worth a look. Combinded with the HANS, that would provide good neck protection.

I see some folks starting to use the arm restraints as well. Given some of the injuries this past season, I should probably investigate those as well.

Pretty soon it will take 30 mins just to suit up and wedge in before a session:eek:
 

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As with all things, issues of safety and tracking involve tradeoffs, and everyone's got to find their place of comfort. Me, I'm okay with the stock seats and the lack of a window restaint, given how/where I drive and my own personal assessment of the risks. But, then, if you're the ONE involved in a horrific accident, playing the odds isn't all that reassuring.

You'll find the HANS uncomfortable and odd, at first. Use it for a half dozen events, and you'll start feeling distinctly uncomfortable without it. :)

In any event, good luck. Sounds like Colin took good care of you (which doesn't surprise me). If you're Seattle-based, perhaps we'll cross paths. I run the Lotus of Portland instruction program at PIR, and I often instruct at BMWCCA Puget Sound events at Pacific Raceways.

Peace,
Twin
 

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Actually, you and I have crossed paths a couple of times. If you recall, we exchanged some emails about data logging last year (I'm still holding off per your suggestion:) ). Also, I was at the Lotus track day at PIR on Sept 1 this year. I thought about contacting you for some instruction, but I wanted the experience of sorting out a new track on my own. It was a total blast. I was the guy in the BRG Elise who spun in the festival corner... was it you who black flagged me for a chat about that perhaps?

You know... this sport driving thing... a guy could get sucked in.:D
 

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My memory's poor, but now I recall swapping some notes last December about data-logging and, also, about PIR. Glad to see that you've stuck with it. Yes, the sport's addictive, but I had a pretty awful introduction to the sport when I showed up for a NASA event and got ignored for most of the weekend, so I try to contribute in some small way to making the introduction of others a bit more satisfying. I remember the BRG that spun out this fall, but I wasn't the guy with the black flag. I was busy teaching the novice group. You must have been driving in the intermediate group, which suggests you're making good progress. Good for you. Feel free to PM me if you want to chat some more. No need to hijack this thread.

Twin
 

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Has anyone crafted a guideline for mod'ing the OE Elise seats for 6pt? I've seen several mentions of the OE seats being mod'd and even some photos on ET, and it seems either these are DIY's or local shops have been used. There is no local shop in San Diego that's done this yet (perhaps an upholstery shop, but who knows), and rather than reinvent the mod and possibly do it incorrectly, I'd like to see how best to do it based on experience.

Anyone have a step-by-step for the OE seat mod?

Thanks. Great thread! :)
 

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This doesn't merit a DIY guide, as it's not that hard. The key is to be sure your shoulder holes all go in the right spots, so be sure that the shop that does the work identifies where to cut holes as a function of where your harness needs to go. To do that, your harness bar will need to be installed and you'll need to be in the seat when they mark the locations. The sub-strap is pretty obvious, as the hole needs to go where the anti-sub bar will be located, assuming you use one. In both cases, the leather/padding will need to be removed and replaced, of course, but any good shop should know how to do this. Note that if you use a HANS, the shoulder straps will sit higher (so wear it when the shop test fits it) and they will be angled slightly.
 

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Thanks. There was a web site someone posted awhile back where the shoulder strap grommets can be purchased. Anyone have that site link? I searched, but couldn't find it on ET or the web.

Also, anyone have pics and opinions of the difference between the Lotus sport harness bar VS the 4tress and Race bars? Mounting points, strength and height are key concerns of course.
 

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Super D said:
Also, anyone have pics and opinions of the difference between the Lotus sport harness bar VS the 4tress and Race bars? Mounting points, strength and height are key concerns of course.
The OEM bar and Race bar bolt to the back side of the roll hoop. In this arrangement, the fixing bolts really just hold the bar in place - it would have to pull through the roll hoop or tear it free from the chassis for the harness bar to come forward.

They're also a PITA to install.
;)

Here's the list of parts needed if you go for OEM:
http://www.elisetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27203
 

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Does the anti sub bar mount shown above work for the current Exige Seats?

Thanks,

ken
 

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mrldcty said:
I recently fitted a set of Reverie seats, Sector111 bar, and Schroth harness. I'm pretty happy with the results, and after trying various options for the sub strap anchors, I have what seems like a safe setup. Here are some shots and brief descriptions:
mrldcity - whatcha doin with your std seats? - (PM me)...
 

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Deciding on a Harness

Hey guys, just finished reading the entire thread. Great info!

Ok, so I have decided to install a harness in the Exige for this summer's driving season. I have a fairly limited student budget and am spending most of that on drivers education (1 school and 8 instructor sessions). I do not want to cut the stock seats and I would like to add a HANS device later in the summer.

It seems that a 4pt harness is the answer except I haven't found one that will allow a HANS. Is there one? I was thinking that I could buy and install a 6pt harness and either bring the 6th point around the front of the seat or leave it off entirely, until I can buy the reverie seat and pay to have all the holes drilled, etc.

My family wants to buy stuff for Christmas, so any help you can offer would be great.

Trevor
 

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Hey guys, just finished reading the entire thread. Great info!

Ok, so I have decided to install a harness in the Exige for this summer's driving season. I have a fairly limited student budget and am spending most of that on drivers education (1 school and 8 instructor sessions). I do not want to cut the stock seats and I would like to add a HANS device later in the summer.

It seems that a 4pt harness is the answer except I haven't found one that will allow a HANS. Is there one? I was thinking that I could buy and install a 6pt harness and either bring the 6th point around the front of the seat or leave it off entirely, until I can buy the reverie seat and pay to have all the holes drilled, etc.

My family wants to buy stuff for Christmas, so any help you can offer would be great.

Trevor
honestly... reconsider cutting the hole for the anti-sub belt(s).

you want to run a HANS :)clap:), so why skimp when it comes to the only system on which the HANS relies?
 

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It seems that a 4pt harness is the answer except I haven't found one that will allow a HANS. Is there one?
No. The way the 4-pt belts (like the Schroth ASM) work is incompatible with the way the HANS works.

Specifically, the ASM has one of the shoulder belts that has a loop of belt material stitched lightly in place. In a hard impact, the stitching parts by design, which allows one of your shoulders to move forward. This twisting of your torso prevents you from submarining. The HANS requires both shoulder harnesses to be tight, so that the harnesses hold the device in place, which in turn holds your helmet in place. Therefore, fundamentally incompatible.

ed
 
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