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hello again, so i installed the bwr harness bar yesterday. i would like please if someone could send me or post a pick of the bwr harness bar and belts setup. what im getting at is the way it looks, (and i made a phone call to check) is that the shoulder straps do not go through the grommets, rather over the top of the touring seats. your thoughts and pics please.
 

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hello again, so i installed the bwr harness bar yesterday. i would like please if someone could send me or post a pick of the bwr harness bar and belts setup. what im getting at is the way it looks, (and i made a phone call to check) is that the shoulder straps do not go through the grommets, rather over the top of the touring seats. your thoughts and pics please.
according to schroth, shoulder belts over the top of the seats is not recommendned.

http://www.schrothracing.com/main/Documents
 

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hello again, so i installed the bwr harness bar yesterday. i would like please if someone could send me or post a pick of the bwr harness bar and belts setup. what im getting at is the way it looks, (and i made a phone call to check) is that the shoulder straps do not go through the grommets, rather over the top of the touring seats. your thoughts and pics please.
Here's a pic of my setup with the BWR harness bar which I put in 2 1/2 yrs. ago. Admittedly, I have a very short frame (5'2") and this setup fits me perfect. I hear that sector 111 now offers a bar that sits slightly lower. Check with them.
 

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Here's a pic of my setup with the BWR harness bar which I put in 2 1/2 yrs. ago. Admittedly, I have a very short frame (5'2") and this setup fits me perfect. I hear that sector 111 now offers a bar that sits slightly lower. Check with them.
TCAR,

Thanks for posting that picture. I'm about to install a harness with the standard elise seats and it's good to see a completed install. But, I've got a couple of questions: 1) How did you determine where to cut the seats for the harness pass throughs? 2) What method are you using to mount the sub belt?

Thanks.
 

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Since I didn't document all steps with photos, let me retrace what I did: First, I put adhesive tape over the upper seat surface. Then I laid out the grummets and used a marker to outline the inner hole. You won't have much choice as to how to position the grummets since you do not want to impaird the structural integrity of the seat by cutting the grummet holes too close to the upper eadge. I proceeded by cutting through the leather using a carpet knife and subsequently drilled small holes along the (inner) grummet outline. Eventually you can punch out the fiberglass piece and finish by smoothing out the rough edges with a dremel. Finally, I removed the adhesive tape and put the grummets in place, secured with super glue.
To answer your question about the submarine anchor, please check here:
http://www.sector111.com/products/interior/seats/anti-submarine_belt_bar.cfm
 

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ok, a few more questions, i got my belts in yesterday, forgetting a min about the sub belt, (i did order the s111 sub bar) did you need the s111 harness hardware kit? or do most harnesses just come ready to bolt in?
 

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i was just taking a look at the belts i got, the sub belt has metal mounting points, the lap belts do not.... where do i find mount brackets for the lap belts?
 

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thankyou^^

i guess seeing the pieces put together in that order helps... kinda wish i knew this days ago...
 

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I have the harnesses from sector that came with ends on them and I have their hardware kit. It works well but I will probably switch to a through the floor setup as well in the future.

I have installed them with those same parts in other cars though so I figured that would help clear it up. Go through in the same area as Jim did and you should be set.

The snaphook ends are nice because you can very easily remove the belts if you need/want to.
 

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Finally got my 6 pt harness install done!

First off - I'd like to thank everyone who's posted here, and answered all my various PM's about where to drill, what kind of harnesses to use, etc. Really appreciate your patience & help.

Anyway, some time ago, I decided to go with Schroth hybrid II harnesses - which don't have a metal buckle on the anti-sub straps - largely because I was used to formula harnesses. (more on this later...) I ordered this, but neglected to mention I was going to wrap the antisub belts, so had to call HMS and have them send over shorter sub belts & buckles, as well as the longer 3/8" eye bolts. Finally got those today, and had to get my car back together! I'm missing out on all the drives & awesome weather!!!

Taking the seats out, getting TiDave's bar, marking the seat, deciding to go behind of the support bar, using door trim to protect the belts from wearing against the edge of the support, etc - easy thanks to everyone who posted before. This has been covered pretty well already, so I'll just post pics of my work...






Unfortunately I didn't have anyone willing to sew a sheath for me, so I took it into a local trim shop to have them finish things off. Which they did quite nicely...




OK - fast forward to tonight - and I've got the sub belts, and longer eye bolts.


(yeah, I know - red on right. I eventually did fix this...)

Drilling the holes - a 3/8" drill isn't big enough, neither is a 13/32" drill. You need the 7/16" drill bit for the 3/8" eye bolt. (I had to make a Home Depot run.) Then file the edges, drop in an eyebolt - and don't forget the washers!!!
I put some loctite blue on the threads, and some silicon on the backing plate underneath.





So put the seat back in and tighten everything down. I'm not terribly thrilled with the way the harness fits... I think the formula harnesses had the buckles for the sub belts farther out from the center, so the sub belts made more of an angle out to the buckles, then looped around the shoulder belt blades. These don't seem to go out wide enough, but I think I still like this better than a regular 6 point with the metal on the sub belt.

A bit strange - the inboard shoulder harness has the cam on it - (if you think about this for a second, you'll figure out why this is... ) Not a big deal, I suppose I can put it in the cup holder when I'm not using it.

OK guys - again, I can't say thanks enough to everyone who posted pics & their instructions here. Hope this helps someone else.

Cheers,
-Darryl
 

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^^^did you weld the nut to the backing plate?
Came like that from Schroth.
I was tempted to get a hole saw and reverse it - so that the under body was flush, and have backing plate riveted to the underbody, but decided that might be a project for another day...

Cheers,
-Darryl
 

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I recently bought an aftermarket seat for my Elise, so I asked Dave Levy of Cedar Ridge Fabrication/TiCycles to fabricate a new sub-strap solution for me. He's the same guy who did my original sub-bar which bolted to my stock seat (shown on earlier pages of this thread). He's also the same guy who fabricated my two-piece brake rotors (which got sold via a Group Buy last year but are now being sold at full price through Dave's normal channels). Dave's big in the NSX world -- on NSXPrime, he's "Titanium Dave" (that's his name on EliseTalk, but he doesn't spend much time on this forum). For what it's worth, I have been very happy with everything he's fabricated for me.

Here's is what he came up with after studying the Lotus Motorsports solution which involves a simple bracket that bolts through the floor pan and through a backing plate just aft of the structual cross-member into which the front seat rails bolt. Dave's approach adds an additional layer of safety by extending the bar to the underneath the seat rails, thereby spreading the load more broadly. Note that the bolts currently threaded into the front seat-rail holes were simply used to hold the part in place while I secured the part. Now that the part's mounted, I will remove them. The seat rails will sit on top of the part and will bolt in place using the stock bolts and holes.

Note that I have no stake in this -- I'm just a happy customer (and friend) of Dave's -- but I thought I would post to let other track-folks know about what Dave's done (once he's fabricated the part for me, it's easier for him to reproduce for others). If you are interested in buying this part from him, pls. contact him at [email protected]. I don't have a clue what he will charge for this, and it's up to you to negotiate with Dave directly.

Best,
Twin

View of the part on my workbench:
On workbench.JPG

View of the part (from inside the car) installed:
Mounted in the car.JPG

View of the backing plate (on the lift) from underneath the car:
From under the car.JPG
 

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M10 Eyebolt as rear seat mount + lap belt mount?

Greetings all,

I'm working on a Reverie C w/ custom down-low rail install. I want to mount the lap belts to the rear cross-chassis member / floor a la Evil Twin's install.

Here's a question for you. If I can get an M10 eyebolt to pull double-duty as the rear seat rail mount AND clip-in point for the lap belts, will this fly? It would put the inboard mount a little better and the outboard mount a little worse than what is contemplated (and executed) in post #39 of this thread. I would, of course, be using backing plates for the M10 eyebolts.

Thoughts?
 
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