[Demonized]

Will be continuously updating this post as I move along, but just figured I should document this in some way.

Tried RTV sealant, which didn't seal the leak, because as I found up by squeezing my head up there, there is a crack running up the side of the "prong" or "fitting" for the bolt (which should have been a bleed nipple).

It leaks less, so now I am able to pull the car in and out of the garage as needed without having to worry about more than a single drip or two.


Sandwich plate in, will have picture later.

Waiting on Ferrari of Denver to get an adapter seal in for me, so I can go about replacing the old cracked one.

 

[Demonized]

New (used) Sandwich plate and seal are here, got the oil lines off the old one, tomorrow I will take the old S-P off.

 

[Demonized]

Anyone have any tips to bleeding the air out of the oil coolers/lines?

As I understand it should be done with the engine hot, and I'm not really thrilled about having my hands near a bunch of scolding hot pieces of metal, and hot oil.

 

[ChrisH]

The instructions are in the Elise service manual. It involves disconnecting the upper cooler line on the left oil cooler, pouring oil down the line that goes to the right side of the car with the bleed nipple on the sandwich plate open. The oil does not have to be warm.

 

[ChrisH]

The below is from the manual. NOTE: when disconnecting and reconnecting the oil line at the oil cooler, use two wrenches so that no torque is place on the oil cooler flange. Otherwise you can crack the flange.

Oil Cooler Circuit Bleeding
When carrying out routine oil changes,
the oil quantity contained in the twin oil coolers
and associated pipework is not disturbed
and is considered perfectly satisfactory for
routine maintenance operations. In instances
of major engine failure where the oil system
may be contaminated with metallic debris, all
oil cooler lines should be thoroughly flushed
out and the oil cooler radiators replaced.
If the oil cooler circuit is drained or replaced,
the following procedure should be
adopted to fill the cooler system before starting
the engine:
1. Attach a tube to the bleed nipple on the
sandwich plate between oil filter and
engine block, and lead into a catch tank.
Open the bleed nipple.
2. Disconnect the outlet hose from the top
of the LH oil cooler, and pour engine oil
into the cooler until oil reaches the bleed
nipple (approx. 2.5 litres).
Close the bleed nipple, tightening to 8 Nm.
3. Connect the LH cooler outlet hose and tighten to 40 Nm.
4. Add a further 0.7 litres of oil into the engine to accommodate the volume of the return hose between LH
oil cooler and engine.
5. After starting the engine, restrict running to idle speed for a minimum of 5 minutes, to allow the oil cooler
lines to be purged of air. Stop engine and re-check oil level.

 

[Demonized]

The below is from the manual. NOTE: when disconnecting and reconnecting the oil line at the oil cooler, use two wrenches so that no torque is place on the oil cooler flange. Otherwise you can crack the flange.

Oil Cooler Circuit Bleeding
When carrying out routine oil changes,
the oil quantity contained in the twin oil coolers
and associated pipework is not disturbed
and is considered perfectly satisfactory for
routine maintenance operations. In instances
of major engine failure where the oil system
may be contaminated with metallic debris, all
oil cooler lines should be thoroughly flushed
out and the oil cooler radiators replaced.
If the oil cooler circuit is drained or replaced,
the following procedure should be
adopted to fill the cooler system before starting
the engine:
1. Attach a tube to the bleed nipple on the
sandwich plate between oil filter and
engine block, and lead into a catch tank.
Open the bleed nipple.
2. Disconnect the outlet hose from the top
of the LH oil cooler, and pour engine oil
into the cooler until oil reaches the bleed
nipple (approx. 2.5 litres).
Close the bleed nipple, tightening to 8 Nm.
3. Connect the LH cooler outlet hose and tighten to 40 Nm.
4. Add a further 0.7 litres of oil into the engine to accommodate the volume of the return hose between LH
oil cooler and engine.
5. After starting the engine, restrict running to idle speed for a minimum of 5 minutes, to allow the oil cooler
lines to be purged of air. Stop engine and re-check oil level.

REALLY don't wanna take my front clam off.

If that's absolutely necessary I think I have a long weekend ahead of me. (Fill LH oilcooler w/ 2.5 litres)

 

[kverges]

I have done this when doing engine R&R; just pull the fuse for the power to injectors and coils, pull spark plugs, and crank it for 30 seconds to build oil pressure

 

[Demonized]

All done no leaks!

Thanks everyone!

 

[Chris Mackey]

Are the condiments oily?

 

[Demonized]

Are the condiments oily?

:nanner2:

 

[apk919]

All done no leaks!

Thanks everyone!

:clap:

Tasty!

 

[NoFear99]

I USE ROYAL PURPLE TOO IN MY CAR !

:shift: