The Lotus Cars Community banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Less is Better
Joined
·
2,480 Posts
Try the washers and screw method first. It's known as "Stan's Mod". It's basically free and you don't have to drill new holes in your chassis, although you might have to open up a hole in the shifter support.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Try the washers and screw method first. It's known as "Stan's Mod". It's basically free and you don't have to drill new holes in your chassis, although you might have to open up a hole in the shifter support.
I have already done this mod but still feel there is some side flex.. Dont know how much of a difference it will make if I also drill the holes?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
384 Posts
I did Stan's mod, and it did tighten up the shifting. It's free and very easy to do. There is already a threaded hole in place, like me73 said, may have to open the hole in the shifter a bit to get a straight shot at it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,473 Posts
Do both...takes that lateral flexing of the base out. I swear the shifting is truly craptacular oem...

I did STan's and Sector mods, SSC shift cable, Cross Gate cable, Jim Clayton Big ball, MT-90, GM synchromesh blend, I have dumped the transmission maybe 3times to make sure all dino gear oil is out. It is much lighter in action and and precise, but now I am just dealing with garden variety notchy-ness that makes shifting on the transmissions schedule and not my own. thwarted desires. It was simply heartbreakingly unacceptable out of box. oh well. but yeah both those mods help with the base flexing. The shiftkit came at the time with a long drill bit. just drills all the way through the plate if I recall from inside the cabin. It cinches if up nice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,028 Posts
Anything you can to help. Don’t be concerned about drilling through the floor. Nothing to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Do both...takes that lateral flexing of the base out. I swear the shifting is truly craptacular oem...

I did STan's and Sector mods, SSC shift cable, Cross Gate cable, Jim Clayton Big ball, MT-90, GM synchromesh blend, I have dumped the transmission maybe 3times to make sure all dino gear oil is out. It is much lighter in action and and precise, but now I am just dealing with garden variety notchy-ness that makes shifting on the transmissions schedule and not my own. thwarted desires. It was simply heartbreakingly unacceptable out of box. oh well. but yeah both those mods help with the base flexing. The shiftkit came at the time with a long drill bit. just drills all the way through the plate if I recall from inside the cabin. It cinches if up nice.
Okay thanks! Do i need to buy this from inokinetic, or just install two srews on my own?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,573 Posts
See #5. Get their product.



Note to new Elise & Exige Owners:



1. These cars have large (i.e. dangerous) blind spots. Multivex mirrors are NLA, but RLS (Really Light Stuff) offers very good tape-on replacements.

2. The horns are way too weak (quiet). There’s an inverse relationship: smaller the car, louder the horn needs to be.

Get something such as a Stebel Nautilus.

Stebel: “HONK! LOOK OUT!”


Remove the stock horn; replace with louder.



(I drive with my finger on the horn button in any traffic. Iffy situations, my headlights are on.



Stay to the left of traffic, i.e. avoid passing on the right if you can.



Stop way behind trucks, SUVs, etc. Some have blindspots >50’. )



3. The early cars came with misaimed and dim headlights. If you drive at night, convert to HIDs. While better than stock halogen bulbs are available, HIDs throw more light. Stay around 5000k. As of this writing LEDs are not as good.



4. Ensure your car has had the work required by the recall for oil line fittings done. You could lose an engine and/or spin in your own oil.



5. Transmission:



The best transmission lube I’ve found is Redline MT-90 plus a little Power Punch Extreme Gear Oil Additive. (Note that it takes two changes to get rid of the previous lube.)



a) Early cars have wobbly shift towers. Look up Stan’s Mod (bolt and spacer; http://www.billswebspace.com/ShifterReinforcement.pdf) and



And, use:

Re-Enforcer long thru bolts that terminate under car and tie down the tower:

https://www.inokinetic.com/lotus/re-enforcer?category=Transmission



These (lube, mods) make a huge change in shifting.



6. As per some engine builders on these sites, wait AT LEAST 20 -35 minutes aftercoolant has reached full operating temp before engaging cam switchover.



For street cars, consider removing one or both oil coolers. Some cover them. Oil doesn’t get hot enough on street, leading to cam wiping.



I use Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel oil. 85k miles and fine, but one is not a useful example.



7. Rear toe-links can loosen and break with disastrous results. You can check tq periodically, or use Nordlock washers. Best is conversion to better engineered brace, such as BOE’s InoKinetic’s for two examples.



8. While under the car with panel off, look around for hoses and wires chafing their way to failure. That’s how this was found:




9. The stock radiators are prone to leaking where the end caps meet the metal part. Keep an eye on this. Most of us use single-pass all-aluminum radiators.



10. When your wheel well liner comes loose, skip the lame plastic rivet and use Well-Nuts instead.



11. Life will be better if you disable the auto-arming alarm function on the earlier cars. You won’t have to press a button to start the car. Instructions:



Remote Key Fob, Immobilizer & Misc Alarm Programming



12. These cars cannot be left off a Battery Tender for weeks at a time. Unless dead batteries are a particular joy of yours. Buy one right away. There are numerous threads here about which ppl use and like.



You NEED a digital multimeter (voltmeter) to work on modern cars. Handy around house too. Get one this week.



13, Some on this site are a bit obsessed with hockey pucks for lifting the car. Don’t use these. Too hard and slippery, generally, and too small a surface area. Use a piece of wood, as your hero does.



14. If you are fooling with sparkplugs, remember to slather those tubes in dielectric grease (prevents shorts).



15. Visit the Uber Thread



**Elise/Exige Uberpost READ THIS. Everything you need to know is in here**



16. Most parts on the car are made by Toyota and others, so buying things like a/c compressors, engine parts, etc. is wildly expensive when purchased thru Lotus.

Toyota dealers, auto parts stores are way less expensive.



17. The soft high-grip tires on most of our cars lose much of that grip when temperatures drop below 50 F. I know of too many ppl who spun their cars when not remembering this. I use hi-performance all-seasons.



Note that many summer tires cannot even be stored in temps below 20 F.



-----



Plus, “How to bleed brakes”:



How to Bleed Brakes





How to Search:



For future reference: Don't use the search on this site. Simply use Google and end the search text with "site:lotustalk.com". E.g.
Transmission Fluid change what bolt site:lotustalk.com

no space betweensite:lotustalk.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
I keep seeing the term "screw" used in Stans Mod on this post and just wanted to make sure you don't use a screw. Use a bolt or machine screw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I keep seeing the term "screw" used in Stans Mod on this post and just wanted to make sure you don't use a screw. Use a bolt or machine screw.
Yes what I mean by screws are bolts / machine screws, just my english that is not that good..
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
384 Posts
I keep seeing the term "screw" used in Stans Mod on this post and just wanted to make sure you don't use a screw. Use a bolt or machine screw.
[/QUOTE
How about a cap screw or a hex head cap screw, the word ”screw” can be used for many types of fasteners. Look it up, you will be surprised.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
603 Posts
One thing I'd note - I had rocking after applying the 'Stan's Mod' bolt, but the cause was that the front of the shifter frame was convex with respect to the floor, resulting in it allowing a rocking motion. Once I flattened it out with a little artful crescent wrench metal brake work, the rocking went away entirely and the mount is now as rigid as I can imagine wanting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
One thing I'd note - I had rocking after applying the 'Stan's Mod' bolt, but the cause was that the front of the shifter frame was convex with respect to the floor, resulting in it allowing a rocking motion. Once I flattened it out with a little artful crescent wrench metal brake work, the rocking went away entirely and the mount is now as rigid as I can imagine wanting.
Do you have a picture of what u did?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
True CRG53 just wanted to be sure he wasn't thinking sheetmetal or wood screw. By in large on this forum users do the right thing but on some of the other forums I'm on bubblegum, duct tape or flexseal is all too often the answer. I had even included machine screw but forgot to include other variants....
.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
603 Posts
Do you have a picture of what u did?
If you look at the last picture in this post you will see the flange I'm talking about on the front of a similar gearshift/parking brake assembly (part E120F0001F for my '05 LHD Elise according to my parts manual). The front flange was not flat, so there was a low spot in the middle that contacted the front seat rail extrusion and made a fulcrum for the housing to rock on. Tightening the screws did not help much because the assembly was never really clamped down to the floor extrusion.

It's brake bent welded mild steel sheeting, so is pretty easy to bend. I used a 300mm Crescent wrench on one end and large vice grips on the other and just bent it until it was flat (only 3-5 mm was necessary). Once I did that, the center of the flange no longer touched the floor, and the front of the assembly is now much more firmly attached to the floor. Another change that would firm things up would be to replace the plastic threaded inserts with rivnuts/nutserts or something similar to get a more positive connection to the seat rail and greater clamping force.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top